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  1. Eyeglasses, Loupe's, Microscopes and other Optics

    Discussing Watchmakers Eyeglasses, Magnification, Microscopes, Loupes and general Optics used in Horology

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  2. Starter Tools, Toolkits, Recommendations and Tools Suppliers

    Discussing recommended tools for getting started - toolkits and suppliers of tools

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  3. What is this tool? How do I use it? Tools Identification

    Have a watch repair tool and unsure what its used for or how to use it - post here.

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  4. Lubrication Tools and Products

    Discussing lubricants tools used for lubricating watch movements.

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  5. Watch Case Tools - Glass Fitting/Removal - Case Opening/Closing

    Discussing tools in relation to the watch case including glass fitting and removal, opening and closing of watch cases, crowns/pendant tubes/pushers etc...

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  6. Mainspring and Winding Tools

    Discussions on winding mainsprings back into the Going Barrel.

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  7. Hand Tools including Screwdrivers, Tweezers

    Discussing watch repairers screwdrivers, tweezers and other small hand tools not falling into any other category.

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  8. Staking Tools & Jewel Setting Tools

    Discussing Staking Toolkits and Jewel Setting Tools and Kits

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  9. Toolmaking, Tools Restoration, Bespoke Tools and 3D Printing Tools

    Making your own tools? This section covers traditional toolmaking and restoration, manufacturing bespoke tools to solve watchmaking issues and using modern technologies such as 3D printing to create new tools.

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  10. Lathes for Watchmakers / Mini Lathes & Jacot tools and all related

    Discussions on Watchmakers or Mini Lathes and associated Accessories as well as Jacot tools and their accessories

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  11. Watch Timing & Testing Equipment / Timegraphers

    Discussions on Watch Timing Machines / Testing Machines / Timegraphers / Calibration Equipment / Water Resistance Testing

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  12. Watch Cleaning Machines / Ultrasonic Cleaners / Case Refinishing

    Discuss watch cleaning machines, ultrasonic machines and case refinishing.

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  13. Workbench, Bench Lighting and General Workshop Design

    Discussing your work area. Show off your workbench, discuss lighting or general workbench/work area design.

    904
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1210 topics in this forum

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  1. Balance tack? 1 2 3

    • 64 replies
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  2. Movement holders? 1 2 3

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  3. Hand pipe tightener

    • 20 replies
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    • 1 reply
    • 612 views
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    • 380 views
    • 12 replies
    • 6.7k views
  4. Vintage pivot tool

    • 10 replies
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    • 11 replies
    • 3.6k views
  5. Making Pivots 1 2

    • 30 replies
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  6. Sigma SM-8810

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    • 67 replies
    • 8.9k views
  7. Smit

    • 3 replies
    • 1.5k views
  8. Smit

    • 1 reply
    • 2.1k views


  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ? I don't know what you mean holds the arms ? The internal spring in the spindle should allow it to hold up to the rivet and the hub of the staff. But that means taking off both the collet and the rolle. With a figure of 8 calipers that have the correct nibs fitted you don't need to do that to true a balance wheel. 
    • Hi Richard I get it from master finish.co.uk email *****@*****.tld contact is Nia but sometimes they have no stock so a bit of a wait but it’s not cheap £15 per tin last time but I did buy six so may be more. Dell why does the site hide email address but it is sales at masterfinish co uk
    • I have been recently servicing an Omega 3220A chronograph movement which uses a Dubois Depraz 2000 chrono module.  This has been quite a time consuming project, not necessarily difficult but with lots of steps.  Working on the chrono module is like working on the love child of a hugely complex keyless works and a Timex pin pallet movement. I do have access to a couple of Omega tech sheets and a couple of relevant Youtube videos (including Mark Lovick's Breitling series) so I feel confident that I have all of the required information. The 'tractor' movement (effectively an ETA 2892) had no issues with obtaining 300 degree amplitude dial up / dial down and maybe a spread of 7 seconds across all of the positions.  I serviced the chrono module and when reinstalling it, this brought the amplitude down to about 260 degress with the chrono stopped and 200 with it running.  The Omega specification states that the chrono running should see the amplitude drop by no more than 40 degrees (from, I am guessing, the assembled amplitude i.e. chrono stopped rather than just the bare tractor movement). Obviously this isn't good enough. I am going to have to redo the chrono module again.  Where I suspect I have a problem is inconsistent / over oiling of pivots.  For some reason the Omega technical guide states to apply oil to the bottom pivot of each wheel and then place in the jeweled base plate.  In practice, I managed to smear oil on the horizontal base of the wheel which would be smeared over the outside face of the jewel.  This also wouldn't be helped by dragging the wheel around trying to get the lower pivots to engage in the the jewel.  When I watch Mark service a similar Breitling chrono with DD module, he also oils the bottom pivots and installs the wheels (obviously doing a better job than me!).  My question is, why can't I install the wheels dry and the oil the jewel on the other side of the base plate in the conventional way? The top pivots are oiled through the jewels in the conventional way, so why would the lower pivots be any different? Looking at the those jewels (picture below an example from a different movement) it looks like there isn't an oil well in the outside surface of the jewel around the pivot, so perhaps I would be better applying a drop of oil directly to the jewel hole before installing the wheel?  Perhaps the jewels have different arrangement to conventional jewels because the outside face is installed against the dial side of the tractor movement and we don't want to risk oil migrating from the module to the movement. There are also a couple of friction springs that may have an impact on amplitude, I will recheck their pre-load but these should be OK.  Is there anything else I should look at as a source of friction in the DD module?
    • I found a Trupoise in a flea market box of tools (🇬🇧car boot). I preferred the ‘8’ style tool until the moment I broke my new Omega rivet. The trupoise holds the arms firmly and I’ve become quite efficient… …and I just resorted to bending a balance cock. I needed a tiny bit less shake and it seemed the least risky of the other options. I held it between a stump and a fat stake while I bent the jewel end with my fingers. Honestly I don’t know how anyone would know by visual inspection. 
    • It was about 4 years ago, one was 30, another 35 and 2 others came in joblots that I was after something else. 3 have ruby jewels and one has ceramic bearings.The most I've seen one sell for is £330.  In the uk i still see them sell occasionally for around £70.  I'm not convinced that the Trupoise has low enough friction on the pivots to be as good as a traditional tripod poising tool with unworn ruby jaws.
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