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I must get one of these Day Disks for the Seiko that I am restoring!

I recently found this watch in an old travel bag, I remember buying it on a cross channel ferry sometime in the 90's, actually not a bad watch it has an illuminating dial a bit like a seiko lumibrite, but it came with a rubbish velcro strap. A new battery, clean & re grease seals and a new silicon strap from Cousins and it's back in the collection !. :D

We could always get a load of truck drivers to blockade the Swatch Group offices to get them to lower the price of Moebius oils. It might work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. I'm officially jealous. I had some koppabergs in the fridge for tonight but my wife has had me driving her to see her friends so no buzz for me :( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah, but the watches go on the left wrist - and the playing movement's done with the right... :jig:

Too much bother??? You being a guitar player I thought that would have been the best type for you! :-)

Well, I suppose one's personal preferences regarding budget, make, dials, age, style, movement, country of origin, etc., all play a part in deciding what to look for. It's difficult to put into words exactly, but I suppose my criteria - over time - embrace: 1. Age: timepieces from before 1970 and preferably from 1930-1960'ish 2. Style: classic or genuine military (not military-style), no divers watches - can't stand chunky bezels 3. Movement: not necessarily heavily jewelled movements, but well-finished, preferably American, then Swiss, then German, then French... 4. Power drive: hand-wound, no batteries, no automatics (too much bother) - but I admire the technology in Solar watches and have one of those 5. Country: American watches, particularly railroad grade pocket watches, then Switzerland 6. Makes: Can't afford posh makes, so good names like Hamilton, Waltham and Elgin (all US, not Swiss versions), Roamer, Gruen Curvex, Wittnauer, Oris, Omega, etc. 7. That indefinable something... chronographs when I can afford them! And so on! I check European makes against http://www.mikrolisk.de/ which is a rough guide to origin So, as far as getting the Hamilton, it immediately ticked a few boxes: (1) make (2) year (3) style (4) condition - and I just had to snipe it!

Each to his own - whatever turns you on! I've never been interested in Sekondas - which is not a criticism, just my personal preference - but I suppose, from time to time, I've worn a Sekonda-type movement under the name Poljot or Raketa or whatever. Before 1993 they were Russian movements. After that time, roughly, they imported Asian movements and became a British distributor of watches.

I have a love affair with Sekonda watches, for some reason unknown to me :)

i'm with the hypo glue. remove dial from movement & you will probably find the markers/chapters where originally glued anyway, they have tiny feet on the bottom that pop into holes on the dial. pick off the old glue (from the rear of the dial) before re-gluing them or else you may have trouble with not only missing the tiny feet or a bulk of glue stopping the dial sitting correctly on the movement. Put in each chapter one at a time & glue. if your feeling really daring do them all, because you can bet if ones fallen off they all will in time!.

Well I would definitely start with Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches. Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth. A quality silicon grease. Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work). Molycote DX or Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work. Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction). Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring. Moebius 8217 for barrel wall (automatic watches) It's a lot but at a minimum get 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200 I hope this helps. Recommended Lubricants for Getting Started.pdf Moebius_Oil_Chart.pdf