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Links on bracelet all nipped up. As good as new except for where the colour has slightly worn away. Can't wait to return it to her.

Watch oils are chemically not very complex (think of an engine oil which has to endure far wider range of operating conditions, which is complex). Most watch oils will contain rust and oxidiation (R&O) inhibitors and probably metal pacifiers (for yellow metals, aluminium, zinc etc). There may be other additives used which I will try and cover in a seperate post, but these are the basic ones for most oils used for 'lubrication'. Your aluminium pots should not impart anything to the oil as aluminium oxidises very quickly to give a protective surface for the base metal. The oils should not 'attack' it unless you are using a very potent EP oil or metalcutting fluid (unlikely!!). If your oils has a dye in it then this may discolour the oxidised layer but will not affect the oil. Biggest danger to aluminium is water and mild acids which would only be present if there is water present or the oil is very old and oxidised (not what you want in your oiler pot!!). Modern plastics, enamel or glass is more inert if you need more assurance. Trust this helps a little.

My first teacher during my apprenticeship never removed the mainspring when servicing (unless it was broken). Over the following years I found this to be bad practice and I always open the barrel and remove the mainspring prior to service. I have found many broken or almost broken mainspring hooks as a result and I suspect this has reduced the amount of return jobs significantly. :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The official ETA take on this is that you do not clean or lubricate the reverser wheels, but replace them. The reason for this is that when they are new they have a factory applied lubricant which keeps thing moving nicely without gumming up. The problem with cleaning them is that they then need re-lubricating, and the issue there is that if the wrong oil is used, or it gets into the wrong places, the pawls stick. However, if my budget doesn't allow for replacement then I am quite happy to put them through the cleaning machine and then very carefully lubricate just the pawls with the smallest amount of 9010 that I can apply, and this works for me. There is a special lubricant that you can use called Lubeta V105. This is a waxy lubricant dissolved in a highly volatile carrier. You simply drop the wheels in and then take them out again. The carrier solvent evaporates and leaves behind a very film of the wax. The DIY version of this is to mix 9010 1:10 with naphtha. I haven't tried either of these techniques but those who have reported their efforts on the inter-web report favourably.

My advise for what its worth is always always open the barrel to have at least a look. I learned the hard way once, serviced a watch that was running but poorly. So I did not touch the barrel after the service it still would not run for more that 5 hrs. When I did take the barrel apart the spring was broken. Don,t ask me how it was winding up and running as it is a mystery but since then I always inspect the spring to check for damage and to see if the spring is sett. Also the barrel wall on a automatic if damaged can cause issues.

Nice! I usually and "inadvertently" drop them but I suppose I'll be adopting this method from now on....mmm, Learning from others' experience! :) Excellent work!

well done, don't forget even a quartz watch has jewels that need oiling, sometimes they dry out & can stick so need an oil. but more likely a bit of debris in it somewhere.