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This is the watch I had to stop the Rolex service to make. It's for our middle Daughter, who, as I write this is in labour with our latest Grand child, No 6. I hope she likes it when she is up and around..... It has a movement from a Rotary watch, hence the logo.

It's a method devised by Greiner in the late 50's or early 60's which allows the use of the timing machine to find the heavy spot when you have an amount of positional error. I understand that their method rendered the 'static poising' method to be obsolete (their words, not mine). In the most basic form the method is to test in 8 positions (0 to 7) in the vertical, and find the position where the watch is gaining the most. The starting position is to draw an imaginary line from the escape wheel centre to the balance centre and set the movement on the microphone with the line vertical, the balance being above the escape wheel. This is position '0' Each test you turn the movement clockwise by 45º, the first = point 1 second = point 2 and so on. When you find your heavy spot (where the watch is gaining the most) take the balance off the watch and flip it over so the impulse pin is facing up. Draw an imaginary line from the staff through the impulse pin to the balance wheel rim. This is point 0. At 45º from this point is point '1' and 90º is point 2. Point 4 is at 180º on the balance rim and hopefully you get the idea. So whatever position is gaining the most on the timing machine, you would either reduce weight at that point or add weight (timing washer) on the opposite side of the heavy spot. And this depends on the rate when the watch is in the horizontal. If the watch is slower in the horizontal then you will lighten the screw at the point found. If the watch is faster in the horizontal then you will lighten the screw opposite the point found. If the watch is running at zero rate in the horizontal then you would lighten the screw nearest the point found and add weight to the opposite of that point in equal measure to the lightening. If the balance has no screws then the only choice to be had would be to remove material at the heavy spot, it's not possible to add weight. Two things to note is that, when testing on the timing machine, the watch should be wound down enough so that the amplitude is between 150º and 180º And secondly the watch must be cleaned and properly lubricated first. I hope my overview is clear, it's late and I have enjoyed a few fingers this evening :)

Just uploaded a new video. This one is one of my favourites, an Omega Military watch from the mid to late 40s. It had a broken balance staff, impulse jewel and the pivot on the centre wheel had a groove worn into it. I didn't film the lathe work but managed to get quite a bit under the camera. I hope it's useful to someone. Some pics:

And thanks for the welcome, Geo and Mark - much appreciated. Now, for that pain, Mark, I think an amputation should suffice. Then you could simply give me the cold shoulder (sorry - typical surgeon's black humour there). -- Pete, Brisbane ============

Hi Erik A warm welcome from me... A beautiful watch you have there with the Tissot coupled to an excellent movement with the Valjoux, I myself have in my collection a Tissot PRC 200 Auto (will have to get around to photographing some of my collection) in answer to your questions yes it is addictive and quite possibly will not end, you will be amazed at how many different makes and models and movements there are to study from your basic Timex to the high end Rolex and everything in between. If you are going to attempt to service/repair watches patience is a virtue as you will lose parts along the way (I still do) and you will have your bad days when nothing seems to go right but when you get your first watch or Pocketwatch running again long after its previous owner gave up on it it makes all your efforts worthwhile, keep watching Marks videos as they are fantastic and give an insight into the world of Horology. Your Cyma timepiece does have a value but it's value is based on condition and originality this being case, dial, movement and hands are all in good order, the case shows little sign of wear the dial is free from cracks if it is enamel and missing paint if painted and that all Dial furniture is present and that the dial has not been refinished as this could affect value. The movement is original to the watch and not a so- called "Franken watch" Please do interact here as there are a lot very experienced guys here who specialise in watches and pocket watches from just about every manufacturer known.. Hope this helps a little, good luck with your journey into Horology Darren Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Can't really add to what's been said, apart from Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you all. Got to go now as the Great Escape is on & Steve is about to jump that fence on his lets pretend its a BMW (Triumph).

I have a number of old watches and, while the dial, movement and outer casings are generally in reasonably clean condition, the one area which often looks green or dirty is the inner rim of the case. Any recommendations on cleaning this area up without affecting the movement?

oh okay it works fine now as I receive the messages ...The watches are one of my passions. In fact, i'm in the old and antique TVs more than a year but I still collect the watches. ;)

:goodjob: Micky - you are a bosss mate.

Welcome to the forum Peter! I also used to play -- and still do at times -- classical guitar. Very fond of the Smallman guitars from the first time John Williams showed his to me (or maybe us...in a master class!) a very, very long time ago. Only, never tinkered with the instruments myself. Now, I'm an avid watchmaker hobbyist and following Mark's excellent videos which are like master classes in their own right. If you are in the mood for some "web training", I'd recommend the timezone.com watch school and the free Seiko 7S26 on line class. They are like a base to really incorporate the wealth of knowledge in our forum...and don't forget Mark's videos as a complement while you are progressing through those. Cheers, Bob

Hats off Micky! An amazing project nearing a rewarding end! Congratulations, I'm sure it will work! Cheers, Bob

You have been busy Micky, well done sir. :-) Only one question, did it really require so much grease on the pole to get it to slide?

Good job ro63rto! Eventually you'll get there and will have a beautiful watch you won't want to remove from your wrist! And yes, between this project and the cleaning machine I'm a bunch of nerves! :) Cheers, Bob

Good luck with the project Doc and welcome to the forum. I got here late but you are in good hands...better than a newbie like me! Cheers, Bob

That's great that your getting there. I wonder what will be finished first, your watch or Micky's cleaning machine? :-)

The method our far eastern horological heroes use to construct this is a bit won key :) In the picture below you will see the movement is set into the movement ring from the front side and held in place by 2 screws. To get it in you have to remove the rotor. The dial (feet) then push into the movement ring and the whole lot is clamped into the case with 3 movement clamps around the movement ring. 2 problems you can expect are, the date wheel has an overlay to correct the font to Omega spec. If the movement is sitting to high in the movement ring then when you push the dial on it presses on the date ring and bang go's your date change. Same thing when you clamp it into the case. Over tighten it and the dial will press on the date ring. Just a word to the OP, when I mention "honesty" it's important that people know exactly what you have so they can give accurate information.

Hi doc, Welcome to the forum..! 1. quartz watches.. while not as hobbyist friendly as a mechanical one, can be serviced but its very fiddly and hard to diagnose the faults if you don't have the correct electronic testing eqpt. Since you mention grounding I take it you're familiar with computers/electronics and it may be you're better than us in this respect.! All the problems wth quartz watch can be broken into 2 categories, mechanical faults (dirty pivots on the gear train) or electronic faults (bad coil, bad chip, bad circuit board). 2.Brietlings are a bit high end and while not too bad to remove.. why do you want to do it? If you're like me and can't resist fiddling with something until you have it apart then go ahead. Note that water-resist may suffer if you dont change the case back gasket. I have seen some non stainless Breitling cases crack so that something to think about. 3.Diesel.. now that's a good starting point. Since you say it big you shouldn't have problems with hand clearance. Get the caseback off, get the stem and the movement out and yank the hands off. If you have a friend who's into air-brushing, rope him in, otherwise rattle can dayglo is the way to go! Make sure you fix the hands to something with a pin so that the spray blast doesn't blow them away! Anil

Let us please keep this friendly :)

He has contributed and given you some very good advice. There is a lot of tongue in cheek humour as well as very good technical help. The comment was made followed by a smiley with a wink, please take it in the good humour and manner in which it was intended. :-)

Have a joyful Christmas one and all I will remember this year because: I found a man on youtube willing to devote many hours of his life to put together high quality videos for me to watch for FREE! I found a man willing to share the knowledge he's gained over many years for FREE! I found a wonderful gift the Lord has given me for FREE, which is both rewarding and fulfilling. I found a group of guys on this forum who inspire me, help me, and encourage me, for FREE! Yes, it's been a great year this year, and we should all count our blessings one by one. Merry Christmas to all my friends on forum. And a special Joyful Christmas to you Mark. May 2015 be both a happy and prosperous one for you, your family and your business mate.

ah yes SeikoWatch - I've just serviced it! Had to scrape off a lot of caked gunge. Most of the oil had turned to sticky dust!

I don't think so Will... I always remove the movement. I don,t know for the other members