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Last weekend, I completed my latest watch project, a(n) homage to the Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, based on a Russian Vostok Amphibia, case style 120. I replaced the bezel with one from Dave Murphy that accepts Seiko-compatible inserts, added an insert from Dagaz watches, relumed the hands with a slight patina, and then made a new dial to match. Here is the finished result: Here's a before and after picture: The process for making the dial differed slightly from my previous project, where I had printed the artwork on photo paper which was glued to the dial blank. In this project, the artwork was done using transparent waterslide decal paper, applied in two layers to give a sufficiently dark black. The decals were applied on top of a layer of luminescent tape.

If the thread is damaged then re-tapping it may work out. If not I might be tempted to broach it out smooth and use a friction/press fit pusher. Depends on the circumstances of course. Obviously re-threading to the correct size can only be achieved if there is enough material to do it at the diameter required. If there isn't then the friction fit pushers come in very handy. Still, I should imagine the chronostop can most likely be saved without drastic action - this is just worst case scenario stuff. Always have a plan :)

I thought you gents would appreciate this new-to-me RR. An E.Howard series 11 Chronometer.

Hi all, I took a punt at the last minute on this 23 Jewel Russian Luch Sekonda last week on the Bay, I took a chance on it because I thought it was one of the scarcer Blue Dials that had been put in a gold plated case, but did not have enough time to read the listing until after :biggrin: when the listing stated a Black Dial I was slightly disapointed. Anyway after reminding myself to always read a listing before bidding, I looked forward to receiving the watch, so I could get to work on it. I thought I would share some photos of the process with you all.. It did not turn out too bad at all Best Wishes to you all Darren

Read the description, ha ha http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Mens-Oris-Date-Pointer-watch-Spares-or-Repair-/131426984752?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e99a8a330

Experience tells me don,t buy cheap with threading tools. There is a big difference between cheap & good quality. The cheap ones tend to brake with the slightest of pressure even with plenty of lube.

Interesting microphone! I'm going to start rethinking my microphones. At the moment, they are based on piezo elements, which require about 5000x amplification to produce a signal that the sound card can handle. As I've discovered, under certain conditions, this can also amplify unwanted AC hum. I may experiment with using an electret element, coupled to the watch by an aluminum plate. I'm also working on the software a bit right now, and will try to get you a copy in the next few days Mark.

Hi Hoosier, it doesn't matter whether you're a pro or like me a serious amateur, at some time you will either want to, or have to push the boundaries regarding the size of the watch. Regardless of the size, if it is a quality piece, it will still have to be fully disassembled for cleaning. The only fundemental diference is handling the small components. You will probably have to dress your screwdrivers to fit the tiny screws exactly as near enough is not good enough. If it is a watch that is of no importance give it a try, if you win, it's a great feeling, if you loose, you will still have gained some knowledge in the process and can always try another day. Here was the first small watch I refurbished. http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/963-time-for-a-cocktail/?hl=ladies#entry8339

This is a great thread. I have always struggled with removing bezels. I have several bezel removing tools and I wouldn't say I have "the one". I have the horotec tool pictured above and have never had great success with it. I even bought the four jaw (Rolex style) adapters for it. I have found that I have the most success with polyimide tape and razor blades. Working my way around the bezel and stacking the blades if necessary. I would love to hear what others have used and how they like them.