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Hi Blake, I have that screw I can send it to you. PM me an address since you are almost my neighbor! No need to pay anything. I ordered the whole set from ofrei (in blue) for the watch I "built" for my mother, so among the lot I should find what you need. Cheers, Bob

Seiko NH36 Walkthrough This walkthrough complements the 7S26/7S36 excellent walkthrough on this site by Lawson (http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/682-seiko-7s26a-complete-service-walkthrough/). I strongly recommend to check out Lawson's walkthrough first). This is a more recent movement based on the said 7S26. It is a 24 jewels day/date, center seconds, movement with hacking capabilities and manual wind. The ligne is like its predecessors ~12. It is popular in the new Seiko models and Invicta watches among others. In brief, former movements didn't have hack or manual wind. Still, several parts are interchangeable with the older 7Sxx series. Here is the service data: 6810_Seiko NH3 Series Part Sheet.pdf My first step here will be to remove the "oscillating weight" and balance and place in a safe place. Those parts could be easily damaged so we put them out of harm's way. Starting on the bottom side, normal removal of "snap for day star with dial ring" Note that the reverse of the snap has indentations to fit a small screwdriver and lift it clear of the day disc (yellow arrow). This is standard for this movement family and snaps, day disc and date rings are interchangeable. The other picture shows the snap right side up. Under the day disc: Showing the "intermediate wheel for date corrector": Moving on, "date indicator maintaining plate" and related screws. No philips proprietary 4th screw here, all four are the same... Date jumper and date dial: also "Day Date corrector wheel", "hour wheel", "minute wheel and pinion", "date indicator driving wheel" and "intermediate date driving wheel and pinion": "Canon pinion" and the new addition for this movement "Day Date corrector setting transmission wheel E": Removing the "Dial holding spacer" (this one is from a 7S26 not the original one which is thicker): Turn over Baby! Ehem, just the other side view... :) More changes are introduced: We remove the "automatic train bridge" and screws: Notice the added 24th jewel (red arrow) to accommodate the newly designed "second reduction wheel and pinion" (blue arrow) which is much thinner than in previous movements. Removing "ratchet wheel" and its screw (nothing new here): Removing the familiar "Barrel and train wheel bridge with hole jewel frame", notice the familiar "long screws" inherited from previous designs: This bridge has been modified also to add the manual winding mechanism. More on that later. Removing the click and the "fourth wheel and pinion": At this point we remove the rest of the loose bits ("Third wheel and pinion", "scape wheel and pinion" and "barrel complete with mainspring": Then we remove the "Yoke spring" and characteristic "long" screws (different from the ones used in the balance cock and "barrel and train...bridge": Removing the "yoke" and the "setting lever", note how the lever shape has changed from the previous models: The story so far after removing the "center wheel bridge" and its short screws, the "center wheel and pinion", "pallet bridge" and "pallet fork": On the main plate, showing the added "balance stop lever": And the "day-date corrector setting transmission wheel A" (red arrow), "winding pinion" (orange arrow) and "clutch wheel" (blue arrow): Close up of what is left on this end: Removing the "guard for day-date corrector setting transmission wheel" and short screws. Underneath the "day-date corrector setting transmission wheel C" and the "Day-date corrector setting transmission Wheel B": After removing the transmission wheels B and C we are left with the built in wheel on the frame: Notice that transmission wheel "B" (blue arrow) is thinner than its counterpart "C": Next: "Barrel and train wheel bridge with hole jewel frame" disassembly:

This made me giggle & not far off the truth

Definitely. Always work as long as the case and back are properly positioned! As the wife said, position is everything...she is learning watchmaking, don't get me wrong! :)

Hi, Will touched on an issue with some cannon pinions that I mentioned in my reply earlier. Some cannon pinions are prone to breaking when tightened and are also prone to becoming loose. Some Wittnauers and especially the Zodiac sst movements have these issues. I fixed a Zodiac for my grandson that ran perfectly except that the hands would not move. I was afraid to try to tighten the cannon pinion and thought that since they were prone to becoming loose that a donor movement was not a good solution. After thinking about it for some time finally decided the only solution for me was to add some material to the inside of the cannon pinion. What I did was take a hot melt impregnated nylon string and trim it down and inserted it into the cannon pinion. Eventually by trial and error I got it so that it was loose enough to allow the watch to be set but still had enough friction to allow the hands to be driven by the movement, Watch will now run, keep time and the date will change and has been doing this for about two years. I know purist may be gritting their teeth right now over my solution but I came up with it after searching many Zodiac forums and reading about this problem that seemed to have no easy solution. My solution has worked and did no harm that I can see to the watch. Charles K

It was quite the thing to mark the XII in red at that time - gave it that extra "military" feel. You see them in blue occasionally.

Hi, I thought I would jump in here with a word of caution. Some cannon pinions are very brittle, especially some Zodiac watches and can actually break so be careful. The tool I normally use is the fingernail cutters however I have filed small triangular notches into the top blade. That way you can have compression on three points rather than two. Also if you haven't tightened one before be aware that there are areas on the cannon pinion where tightening will and won't work. Charles K

Welcome to the forum Tim. As Bob suggested a Seiko 7S26 (loads on fleabay) is an excellent starting point. As this is probably the most common movement on the planet there are plenty of parts & non runners out there, along with walk throughs here and elsewhere. Best keep the good stuff on the back burner until you get the hang of things, particularly the 109 clock as I suspect it's worth a few bob. Nice set of wrenches by the way.

My gang of pin lever resurrected wrecks: L to R Ingersoll Triumph. New strap & crystal, cleaned & serviced. Waldman Submarine. New strap & crystal, cleaned & serviced. A ruby mine - 23 of them inside the EB8021 movement. Cronel. This one was bought as is for £5 and appears to be recently seviced. Haven't identified the 21J movement yet. Ingersoll Triumph Pocket. The case was so tarnished when it turned up it was almost black, also it didn't have hands, crystal or bow. The hands aren't correct, but they work. The great thing about these is they are all cheap to buy & repair, none have cost more than £20 including parts.

Could end up as 'Mr. Bean and the mangled hairspring"