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I have used superglue many times on car parts with great success. Superglue works best when there is a large flat area glued to another large flat area. Only the thinnest layer of glue is neeede as it cures in the absence of air (that why it stays fluid in the bottle!). Best results are if the pieces are tightly clamped together as Blacklab says and left for an hour or so to fully cure. Also superglue is very strong in tension but not as string in shear. If you use a flat piece of metal glued across the back then it may be possible to 'peel' it off before you use the acetone.

Not pulling your leg. First used this method a few years back after reading about it on other sites. Make sure the caseback is clean of grease & dirt, apply a thin ring of ordinary superglue to the face of a clean, degreased 17mm nut, apply to caseback & leave for 30 mins to set. put watch in suitable clamp (I use the bench vice in my garage, jaws padded with wood). Undo with socket wrench (you will be surprised how easy it comes off). Place caseback & attached nut (minus any gasket) in acetone (or the bosses nail varnish remover) leave for 30 mins ans it will come apart. A word of warning - do not I repeat do not use anything other than ordinary superglue as you will have difficulty getting other glues off. I know superglue is pretty useless in general, but it does work for this. Also as Anil has rightly pointed out acetone will make a right mess of gaskets etc.

I'll go to any lengths...

Be very cautious with the pegwood...you don't want a bit broken off in the jewel hole. Whittle it down carefully and make sure you go in dead straight to avoid breaking the tip. I would try dousing the jewel hole with lighter fluid and 'wick' it up with a tissue. You should he able to see traces of dirt on the tissue if you're sucessful. Just wick u the fluid don't wipe the jewel as tissue leaves a lot of fibers behind . Anil

Nothing about watch repairing is old news to me Bob, which is why I'm finding so much on the forum absolutely fascinating. I'll have at look at what Esslinger can offer but there's always the option of just getting some flat acrylic and shaping it myself. In common with most of my watches, this F-L doesn't stand me in very much so I'd be content to have it for display only. Thanks for the advice. :thumbsu:

Excellent thought process! I wish I could afford to buy 5 or 10 bell-matics to learn them inside out--I've only been able to do that with two movements both of them pin pallets: BFG 158 31/7 and BFG 866. These two I can do with no hesitation. I've only worked on Ronda's 1223 type alarms which are very different than Seiko, but I'll take it slow and at least I know you are a good resource for Seiko insights! Thanks buddy.

Aloha Geo , Yup...It's easy being a back seat driver.

They're not listed yet...I just checked--Too funny! J

Thanks, Bob! I received a pdf copy of the original "Staking Tools and How to Use Them" yesterday. I've been skimming through it to get an idea of the tasks that can be done with a staking set. It's very interesting. They have a blurb for the Invert 17 set for $35! It's too bad there aren't more manufacturers of these tools today.

The movements will probably be on ebay so let's keep our eyes open! :)

Maybe it was Catherine-Zeta-Jones?

Here's the tech sheet for ETA 450.111... looks like it. ETA 450.111.pdf

I agree, just buy it and the fever will recede! :) In any case, it looks like a solid watch with very nice specs...and btw, hi from Fla, USA. Cheers, Bob

It is the same way the canon pinion is held on ETA movements like the 2801 family...I think they call it a friction slot?

If it s a flat or a square on the and of a round rod you will have to use cross filing, just make sure you finish with a smooth file. The size you are dealing with is not going to leave much room for error though. Keep checking your work every few strokes.

Have a read of this thread :- http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1287-stubborn-screw-in-back-how-tomaybe/

Hi Anil, I've already tried the two prong trick to no avail so sticky ball is next. The back is really on tight. As for the acetone, that's only for the super glue removal if I use Geo's trick with a nut. I have plenty of gaskets to hand in any case. Thanks for the warning though! Maybe if I brazed a T-bar on to the back ...

Hi minuteman, part 401 is the generic number for watch stems... Applies to all swiss movements. For the crown you need the case tube diameter, stem thread size , and crown material and shape. Anil

I'll keep you posted guys! Now where's my Rodico? :)

Geo, I'll have you know that a well-put-together locomotive is just like a watch! Just a bit heavier!

Is that because the movement looks like something off the railway? :)

@svorkoetter "Yes, it ought to be, but I don't know by how much. I do have to manufacture the microphone stands, which has a materials and labour cost associated with it. What do you think the magical price barrier is? $99?" Personally, I am interested only in the software. The rest I think I will manage to put it all together. I found a vid on youtube with an even simpler montage for the amp which I will try ( ).I think you should do more packets: sw, sw+amp, sw + amp+holder, with the main price value on the sw app. I still believe that your market is the amateur/hoby watchmakers, IMHO, who will find it quite rewarding to make the amp and the holder themselves.