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Just uploaded a new video. this one concentrating on correcting beat error.

Cousins have parts list download and some parts are available from them. However the electronic parts are now shown as obsolete so they don't stock them, so a search around is needed. Parts are as follows: 1310-9100 - Electronic Module (also called circuit) - this is the part that generates the pulse etc for the coil/motor and has an integrated circuit module. 1310-9200 - Motor Module (includes coil) - this works the rotation of the motor rotor. 1310-9214 - Coil Block only (shown in Cousins parts but not in Omega parts list download) 1310-9230 - Magnetic Shield for coil area. Happy hunting.

Sounds like part of the electronics. With that said, I'm not familiar with this one but it is customary to name some sections by block letters (hopefully independent and interchangeable sections). An example is found in the schematics for some Seikos I've worked on. I hope everything turns out ok in the end, being omega could be a problem since the movement might have been modified.

Thanks Don, exactly what I've been looking for.

His name wasn't Phil E. Stein was it?

I've bought a couple of movements and several parts from eBay seller vacheron_nl. He has some interesting stuff, some of it NOS. A lot of them running. The downside is that shipping takes a bit. But you can get a deal if you're patient. A couple of things I forgot to mention....a lot of the movements they sell that don't have a dial are also missing the hour wheel, so be aware of that. Also, many of them are smaller movements. You can check the diameter of the movement in the Ranftt Database.

The jeweling tool is used to press-fit friction jewels. If the hole in a plate is not large enough for a particular jewel then you can also use the tool to ream out the hole in order for the jewel to be fitted. The Jacot tool is used to polish pivots, and can also be used to reduce the pivot thickness and length. Jewelling Tool: Jacot tool:

Seeing that is watchmaking I would recommend the Bregeon Basher! :)

Thanks J for the kind words and offer of help getting the old gal serviced. I'm pleased that you have a good opinion of the 158 as I'd started to form the opinion that pin-levers were the poor cousins of the escapement world. In an earlier post of mine I mentioned a movement from a job lot that came out of the package ticking. That was a BFG too and it impressed me by its willingness to run. It had been wound within an inch of its life and to begin with would run for a while, then stop. I twirled it each time and after a few stops and starts it loosened up and ran for about 36 hours. Bearing in mind that my sole experience of servicing watches has, so far, been in the diassembling side of things, and I'm not yet equipped with a dedicated work bench where I can leave stuff, the proposed service of this and numerous other watches will happen at some indeterminate time in the future. Still, you're young! You'll probably be running the hospital by then! ;-)

For practise, try to get a watch advertised as running. Do an ebay seach for handwinds under USD25 (with free shipping!), there are a lot of garish watches from India which although hard on the eyes, represent good value for a beginner watchbreaker maker. If you can take it apart and get it back together and running then thats a big motivational boost for you! If you start with a watch which is not running you may be stuck and lose heart thru no fault of yours. For a simple handwind you'd need A simple caseback opener A loupe (10 x ) A pair of decent tweezers (*) Some decent screwdrivers (*) A bottle of Zippo fluid (or equivalent) for cleaning watch parts. Some Rodico (funky green plasticine which watchmakers use) Some watch oil (*) mainspring winder parts organisor Misc tubs and containers. For Items marked with (*) try to buy quality stuff as poor tools will make your work so much more difficult. Anil

Hey John, Well that is good news about the movement because I can tell you that despite it being a pin-lever, the BFG 158 is a robust little machine--as you already know because yours is a runner after all these years! I would suggest you go ahead and service it; give the crystal some polywatch treatment to rub out the scratches and you'll discover these watches have a endearing personality...sentimentality aside, you could also sell it for a profit (this brand happens to be popular), but I don't think you would do that because of the history you have with it. Give it a shot and service it. I know this movement very well so if you need some tips just let me know. And if during the course of the service, something happens to get lost, send me a PM and I'll help you out. J

I'm just back from the pub, so I hope I get this right! If the pinion is too tight in the jewel, and this is evident because when you lifted the cock the balance came with it, the problem is not end shake but too large pinion diameter. Placing a shim under the cock is not going to sort the problem. You will have to reduce the diameter of the pinion or fit a jewel with a larger internal diameter.

That's an interesting collection indeed. I remember the fad for biorhythms - we all did them - about the time the Certina was made! Oddly enough I've never gone for dive watches. I don't care for watches with chunky bezels - don't mind ladies with chunky bezels though...

Rising sea levels!

That description clears it up. My best guess is there are two separate problems that need to be addressed. And both may be very easy fixes. 1. The main spring barrel needs to be opened and you need to see if the spring is broken or if it's not catching the center arbor. Sometimes when they slip a few times the force of the spring slipping opens the inner coil of the spring even further which makes the slipping worse...until it won't catch at all. This can be repair by gently closing the inner coil with some pliers so that its tighter around the arbor. 2. If the stem isn't "clicking" firmly in place that will cause all sorts of problems when winding. These fingers can often be bent slightly inwards so they engage the stem more tightly. Pull the stem out of the sleeve by pulling on the square end. Squeeze the fingers slightly inward. Reinsert the stem and see if it "clicks"