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Hi, A couple of members seemed interested in how i make a watch band. They are by no means perfect, but are functional and seem to last the test of time. This one is made from farmed crocodile. The skin is cheaper to buy in a non-dyed state. This skin was bought locally in Melbourne, it was around a meter long and cost $95. The tools required are a new scalpel, awl, glue, hole punches, a gas torch and mid size screwdriver, needle and good quality waxed thread, sealer and dye for the sides and coffee leather dye. The other materials are kid leather strips (suede side out, very comfortable, but up to you) and some scrap leather for filler. (Above) I have made up some templates. These are paper, but clear hard plastic seems best as you can see the grain underneath. I look for matching patterns. From this hide I rough cut the band and the keepers. (Above) The slide shows the croc and the kid liner. The keepers will be lined also. The croc has been dyed. The two strips to the left are the band pad scraps. On some bands I like a lot of padding, sometimes three layers so it appears curved, but on these watches just one layer is best and only part of the way down the band. This stiffens up the band well. It is important to have the band not too stiff or too supple and also tapering in thickness towards the buckle ends. (Above) This pic shows the reverse sides of the croc with the padding in place. I use water based glue. I find drying time varies with the amount applied which gives you good control and it is super-flexible. The spring bar ends have been folded over. They will be double stitched later. (Above) Liner glued to croc. Keepers/liners glued. (Above) Shaping complete. One fixed keeper attached under liner. Buckle end is folded over under liner. Wait for glue to dry. (Above) Reverse side. You might be able to pick up how I have done the spring bar end. Should be strong with double stitching later. (Above) I use a heated screw driver flat to smarten up the leather edges. Not for too long though. Really helps to get a nice curve on the end of the band. (Above) I use inks to dye the side sealer. This one is black and after mixing I apply it with a cotton bud - seems to work for me ok. The fiddly parts can be applied with a small flat brush. Take care not to get the sealer on either the leather or the liner as it is impossible to get off, once dry. I have never seen this stuff peel or flake. (Above) I use a sharp awl and just eyeball the holes. Make sure you hold the awl vertically and not at an angle. The band is ready for stitching. I use good quality waxed thread. Better to have the thread a bit too long that short. I sometimes dye the thread, but these days tend to use white a bit...all depends on personal preference I guess. Anyway now you can sit back for around two hours and stitch away. (Above) The finished product. I have tried many products to finish the croc, but have found simple neutral shoe polish great. Put some on with a cloth and just brush off when dry. (Watch is a 'Cymaflex' watersport with dial patina...fairly common watch I think). Happy to provide further detail if you would like also more than happy if you see ways I can improve. Hamish.

Welcome Jarent1, Ha Geo must have lowered the scale to raw amateurs when i joined a few days ago :P

You beat me to it rogart :D

+1 rogart63. I would be inclined to look at main spring as my first port of call too. Your photo of the disassembled parts shows the main spring barrel intact which maybe suggests that you didn't clean, inspect, and then re-lubricate the main spring. It is actually quite important to have the main spring out during a service so that you can check condition of the spring, and the side and end shake of the arbor in the barrel, all of which could sap power. If I'm working on a watch that has known power issues then I will also measure the main spring thickness and length and compare against what is supposed to be in there in case someone has put an incorrect spring in in the past. If all is well with the main spring and the train is running nice and free then I would be looking to see an amplitude of >270 at full wind with a re-used spring, and preferably nearer to 300+ with a new spring.

Hello Sendilkumar and a belated welcome to the Forum fom me, Looks like a good job to me so well done! I am like yourself just a hobbyist and have managed to fix some watches thanks to Mark's videos and the freely given help of others on the forum which I could not have managed without. I have a few HMT's that I have practised on, heres a pic of one that is working fine but still has some things I am not happy with :- The crown supplied with the watch is just a bit too large and stands proud of the case allowing ingress of water so I will get another crown and shorten the stem a bit so it fits neatly into the case and look to sealing it better.. The plastic watch glass is one of those push fit types and I will either replace it with a different type or if that is not possible I will look to using some form of adhesive to seal it as currently the inside of the glass mists up on a humid day and the movement has to be dried out and that must be fixed as it is inviting rust. Overall I consider the HMT watches good value for the money. Cheers, Vic

They do get quite large. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-XZMvyt1iYk