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The 2804 is manual wind. As long as it sits flat in the barrel and the lid can snap on correctly it won't affect the amplitude.

So stop it what? There aren't any political opinions in my posts, or do you mean stop expressing my frustration over parts restrictions which has nothing even remotely to do with political decisions made in legislative assemblies?

The '70's Funk is strong in this one! 1973 President 'A' on the original Corfam strap.

A couple of pocket watches are on their way. The first is a cylinder movement, which I would guess is possibly from the 1950s, maybe a little earlier. The second is a Ruhla - East German pin lever, probably from the 1960s. Both are non runners, but they look to be complete. They both also look filthy and in need of a service, a thorough clean and a crystal.

Just a little update on winding the Westclox mainspring. I machined up a barrel winder with a lead-in slot (didn't start out that way).... and I also had to use a pusher as well. It was still a bit of a pain as you have to line up the hook (bridle end for it to seat in properly. Anyway, done done and thanks for the tip! Pics attached. Now to rebuild the pocket watch!

I have the same Caravelle. Mine doesn't have a display back though and it has a different movement. I paid $8 for mine

I got this neat Caravelle with a display back for $7.

Well, I've done it. Purchased a very dead Seiko 6309. Obtained two, also dead, donors. All looked horrendous on purchase. dirty, screws missing, only one very dirty case. Disassembles all. Checked every item for condition. Picked best. Assembled, oiled. Everything checked on install before moving on to the next part. Biggest problem was balance. All had motion after a while, but none kept motion. 3rd one worked. Demagnetised, Timegraphed, took an hour (+3s, Amplitude 168 - can't get it better, beat error 0.3). Used case from original purchase. Strap from 7009. It works, been wearing it for 3 days now. I know it's not much, a low end watch. But I did it. I've done other automatics, but none have actually maintained their beat without having to be wound manually. So, I'm here...ish. Going away in a few days for my 75th birthday. Back to the enjoyable hobby on return. Regards and thank you to you all.

These are all my 70's watches. I think. Might be more. So much flair.

Don't see anything political in VWatchie's post, just his frustration at the greed of some manufacturers in the watch industry, wanting to control every aspect of the repair of their watches, even though that means their customers receive and overpriced and often inferior service (inferior because they are not funding the training of repair technicians) making their loyal customers wait longer and longer for repairs that they charge high prices for. Certain sections of the watch industry are now just one big money making cartel and have nothing but contempt for their customer's It's not a political statement it's a business statement

I love 70's watches. I have your watch's cousin.

I removed the bezel by removing the screws. It will do for now. Cleaned up pretty well.

Found in a box of random watch parts. Hands have some rust but it started right up when I moved it a bit. Not sure how to open the case. Looks like there is no spot to remove the back.

Ok have a good break. I just found this on ebay - seems like the thread is Tap 10 (1.00mm) not 9, which explains why it didn't fit.

You have to have the wheels in the correct way to start with other wise the self correct will not work.

Does the extra height have any effect on the lid not closing fully ? The mainspring should be free floating, we talk a lot about internal damage to a barrel from a deformed spring, any evidence of that Watchie. If stoning off the excess to make the spring uniform thickness doesnt effect its catchment on the barrel wall ledge,then i would do that. I would also be worried if it would be damaging the wall of my mainspring winder. Seems like a pretty poor manufacture.

Is this the old/ used mainspring you repaired? or brand new? Anything that can affect the torque supply affects the amplitude. I would at least file the sharp corners on the bridle. Heat to a glow and file. Regds

Thanks, I have no intention of removing hands, just the movement. But it's good to know. Oops I forgot the photos.

Not often you are wrong, but you are right again. I am servicing a 6119. Amplitude is 200+ (only just). Cleaning better, oiling lighter. More tools. Ability and knowledge to look for, and understand problem solving. Better working practice. Unfortunately I don't have the crown for the specific case. Project still on going.

Well done Ross. I couldn't get high amplitude out of my 6309 either (typical Seiko). But in a couple of years, you will have so much more knowledge and experience. So when you next service it, you will notice all sorts of things you missed, and you will find the lost amplitude. I've been re-servicing some of the watches I started on, and have been noticing mistakes I made (e.g. too much oil ) and things I missed before I had more experience. It's just practice. Move on to the next one. What's next?

Good work! Very inspiring! Haven't tinkered with a mechanical watch yet. However, about to purchase some old wrecks just to open up and see what it's all about and perhaps understand a bit better.

Having haphazardly followed this thread I have to ask, are you removing the hairspring to manipulate it? if you are you need to start at the first incorrect bend in the spring that’s closest to the collet and get that true and work you’re way around until it’s perfect. You will find that the bent out of shape spring is probably not acting as it should with the index pin on the regulator

This is my first attempt in replacing a watch crystal. Watch is Seiko v657-9010. After removing crystal, there was tacky/sticky substance on the crystal and the case. It did not appear to be a gasket. Crystal measures 30mm x 1.5mm. https://boley.de/en/case-parts/seiko/33811.v657-9010 did not show a crystal gasket for this case. The old crystal now fits very loose in the case. Does Seiko use sealant or glue for this case? What can I do to secure the crystal?

Hi all. First post. Recently got hooked on watch repairing. Watches have always had some weird pull on me, but now, opening the back of a watch and seriously studying it - a whole new world has opened up. I desperately want to learn more. Have been collecting watches for a few decades, but limited to budget-friendly brands such as Seiko, Citizen and Certina. There are an occasional Festina and perhaps even a Jacques Lemans in the collection as well. Do have two mechanical Omegas and a Longines, but they have been passed on for a few generations. Nothing I fiddle around with in my beginning stage... Hope to learn more from you guys! Thanks!

Hello Vector From your introduction I now know that you are situated in Sweden. That's nice to know and such information helps when you need info where to get parts etc. It would be very nice if you were to include this location info in your profile, for everybody to see. BTW, a lot more members should do that.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.

Welcome Vector. Seiko watches have a huge following and also probably the most modded brand. Certina also known as KF, KFG not to be confused with KFC and Grana were a good quality brand. Very wise not to tinker with the longines or Omegas until you have banked some experience. We sigh when someone joins the forum with an opening introduction of # I've never taken the back off a watch before but decided to have a go at making this family heirloom watch work again annnndd #

Hello and welcome from Yorkshire.

Hello and welcome from England.

Welcome to the forum.

I picked this one up at a roadside swap meet. You gents over the pond call it a boot or something like that? Anyways $1 plus about £2.40 for a crystal I already had but wasn't using. Unknown maker as the dial was made into a line from a book/Broadway play from 1995. Makes me wonder if this was made for sale during its run, made for the cast or production crew...Give us more to see...Sondheim. Zim 2602 I beleive. With that here is some more to see!

Mark. I have had problems best part of the day. I haven't been able to be active on here. I'm only just catching up. Thanks for the info. I thought it was my PC.

Hi I lost the submit reply box , it down sized or blued out, all working again now, thanks Mark .

It's been down all day for me but resolved now. No need to apologise, we all appreciate this brilliant site. Thank you.

Eyup watch peeps. Just arrived in the mail this morning. A Smiths Astral Natonal 15 in reasonable condition,this was my focus for buying the job lot. A 70s Sekonda , the others Rone, Sabro,Emka and Mentor. All running but 3 of the dials a bit rough, the Emka looks like someone has used tongs and a hammer to remove the dial so beyond any real improvement. Shame as the movement is a nice FHF. Not 404s but the way inflation is in the UK at the moment they are certainly within our inflation increase of the last 2 year at just under a tenner each.

An egg cup for watch enthusiasts.