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My 6309 is repaired and running great. I bought a used escape wheel, pallet fork from a guy in, of all places Kiev Ukraine. Parts were $18 that included shipping. When compared to my original escape wheel the used one was flat (no bend). It was great to see the escape wheel turning as it should after I puffed some air on the balance wheel. The movement seems to loose about 30 seconds in a day of running. My next purchase is maybe a timegrapher??? Thank you every one that replied to my post. Tracy

I'm all for trying new ideas, but it has to be an idea of substance, just not a money making gimmick that has nothing to teach please.

It goes on the movement just before you put on the dial. Here is a photo showing the black dial spacer on the movement. Make sure it isn't covering the holes where the dial feet will go when you put the dial on.

Evening, By way of an update, I finally finished it and it's been running for a good month or two now. A couple of seconds fast over a week. Been busy round the house and outdoor stuff, would've posted sooner. Had some difficulty with the quickset date which had me crossed eyed for a bit. It wasn't snapping round as smartly as it should, cracked it in the end though. Been a huge learning experience in troubleshooting and confidence. Not sure I'd dive into another again right away. Obligatory wrist shot and timegrapher pictures attached. Timegrapher (face down) shot taken about a week after I had it running. Didn't think it was too bad for what was a bag of spanners to start with.

As far as I am concerned Rich this is not a precise science, we all have a different way to achieve the same thing and strive for excellence as best we can. Stuff like this only encourages people to take shortcuts when they don’t know better, it is sad. Personally I am disappointed in this being promoted by who I think are good folks and leading others astray. Tom

Blue is usually what's referred to as spring temper, so yes. The difference between light and dark blue is small, spring-wise, but the light blue part will be less fragile.

Light blue is perfect.

It looks like the typical dial rest for Bulova's 11AN* movements. And Bulova's used a dial rest for flat dials like yours on the 11AN* movements, so one will be needed to have the movement sit correctly in the case. They do have an orientation so try flipping it over and fitting it that way.

Yeah, I had a bit of toing and froing with Matt on that one about it not being a good idea, not to mention expensive for a pivot destroyer. I have one of those jewel pickers when I was still doing custom keyboards, not the most robust device for alignment. The components are all cheap and it is definitely not worth the $200+ price unless you are selling new staffs to replace the ones that are going to get screwed up. Tom

I agree. Motor reversing is not an electrical problem. Perhaps a mechanical problem as you suggest...I don't know. I am content with a unidirectional drive. Worst case, it takes twice as long to burnish.

I was surprised to see him endorse it, and I was surprised by the statement "Even after using a Jacot lathe, your machine adds that final touch." I just don't understand that sentence. What "final touch?" After burnishing and cleaning the pivot is as perfect as it can be, and if not, something must have gone wrong. Couldn't agree more, and then, as you observe, we can use a much larger area of the polisher. The pin polishers are about £0.5 each (including tax and shipping) so not really expensive but just using the centre of it would be a serious waste, not to mention the time required to remove them, cut them, and reinstall them.

I would like to know your answer when you burnishing pivots in a lathe because as you know it operates one way when you are undertaking the task. If your answer is it is the right way of working then it makes no difference what other tool you use.

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK+CS%232620-5510&submit=Search It's amazing what happens if you have the right part number. See go to the link above and you get parts numbers like Crystal which they don't have it all apparently but if you Google the crystal number here is supposedly one https://www.stsupply.com/sa9n99kn00-seiko-crystal.html Second link here looks more promising because it's basically taking you to eBay where you can go directly yourself I just haven't quite got there yet https://www.emmywatch.com/db/part/crystal_x--sa9n99kn00/ http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.A/id.22518/.f https://gleave.london/glass-seiko-sa9n99kn00/ So basically go the first link click on the items you want get the part number in search online although they do have the gasket. Looks like Crystal may be in its Leon eBay. Otherwise the UK company looks like they have it probably others have it on not go to spend a lot of time looking I forgot that you had updated the case number

I don't think that reversing the voltage instantly while the motor is running in one direction, is a good idea. You will get very high currents, overvoltage and mechanical stress to the motor during reversing. Frank

Based on my personal experience of EveFlex I'd say the machine linked to in this thread is not only unnecessary but would risk damaging pivots even when it's working as intended. I use soft fine grit EveFlex in a pin vice made for EveFlex sold by Cousins to clean pivots. However, EveFlex is abrasive (yes even the soft fine grit) so if you go for too long even when doing it by hand, it will deform the pivot into a tapered shape. So, only a Jacot tool can safely restore a deformed or scored pivot. However, for cleaning EveFlex is excellent as long as only the soft fine grit is used and not for too long.

There's a factory vid floating around showing them using a hammer seating the main chrono hand. I definitely tell customers the hand/s may deform as a part of the service. There is at least one hand removal tool available that's supposed to mitigate the issue, but I don't see it being much help (pushes on the pivot while pulling the hand). Crazy thing is there's no need for such tight hands.

Whose average shows $363? One of the problems with anywhere you go to purchase a watch is it depends upon who the audience is and who is presenting the sale. If somebody's doing a really good job of it presenting the sale and depending upon the audience than the price Will very likely be higher than whatever you perceive it should be. Your purchasing a watch and you do not understand the specifications and you think the prices high? First thing is the serial number you can take the serial number and go to This link https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/illinois/5284473 and get specifications. Then the simple ones of the 16 size 21 jewel movement. Basically it's a nice railroad grade movement with a 60 hour running time it's going to get a little higher price than a normal watch. Especially if anybody is looking at it because it's going to look like a really pretty watch and really pretty watches conceivably are going to get much higher prices Then typically places like an estate sale with a captive audience the price is going to be a lot higher than places that have a much bigger audience. For instance go to the link for eBay that I have here completed sales. Look at only the ones that have sold and some go for much higher some go for less. Or simplistically the prices determined by how much somebody is willing to pay to get the watch. That means that that price may have nothing to do with reality at all. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=bunn+special+60+hour&_sacat=0&LH_Complete=1

They are not glued, just tight. My everyday watch is a Breitling Aerospace (a quartz ). After sending it to Breitling to be serviced many times, last time it needed a service I did it myself, and the hands were not that tight.

I've seen this video and also read more than a few times here and in facebook groups that Breitling chrono hands are extremely tight. Something in my memory also tells me that Breitling were bought out not so long ago, if that has anything to do with it ?

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/26795-polishing-your-pivot/?do=findComment&comment=222894

You don't know if they are true or out of line and at those prices leave them in the shop.

You don't need to take those parts off. The hairspring looks worse then it is. Have you done any hairspring work? First you need to unravel it, Use a pin or a fine oilier, start near the collet and work out. Then take a photo so I can see it.

Hello! I am Deb (“Dr.Deb”) Wise. I’m honored to be among those who have chosen this forum for learning. I started dabbling with timepieces at a very young age by sitting at the kitchen table and taking apart wristwatches with my mother’s eyebrow tweezers. As I grew older, I never lost my fascination with watches and their stories but like many of us, the pressure to be “responsible” pushed me into a different career, ultimately as a university educator. Now, as that career is nearing its end and I look at retirement, I have the time and ability to pursue the passion I have held so dear. My husband and I travel the US in our motorhome with our three pups. The ability to repair/restore timepieces while we travel is the perfect way to meet new people and their watches.

Well done. A credit to you and your ingenuity.

These are all my 70's watches. I think. Might be more. So much flair.

I love 70's watches. I have your watch's cousin.

The '70's Funk is strong in this one! 1973 President 'A' on the original Corfam strap.

Its possible that was me maybe a year or so ago, i do remember suggesting it but never actually tried it. I think my idea was shot down in flames . Experiment over. Yep pretty much as expected an accident waiting to happen . One 2mm extra fine pinpolisher set into a dremel at the lowest speed of 500 rpm ground off 3 pivots in a short space of time. In a pin vice its more of a controllable environment . Not a waste of time though as it shows up a flaw in the design of the Galaxy pin polisher. The workpiece should be spinning and not the pinpolisher. Only a tiny portion of the pinpolisher can be used in this way, the very center of it. Once you have a hole in the pin polisher that section then becomes unusable and has to be trimmed off so needing a good supply of pin polishers and wasting time constantly trimming. If the workpiece is spinning then the polisher can be used all about its surface. So pinpolishers are ok but Galaxy pin polishing machine, sorry Alex but poor design imho .