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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/27/23 in all areas

  1. Callipers are fine for “rough “ work, micrometer is better for finer accuracy but for pivot and jewels you need something like a JKA feintaster. Different levels of accuracy and fine measurement. Tom
    2 points
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
  4. Maybe the whole idea of simulating the bow action is a dead-end street? There are experts who say that a Jacot tool cannot produce a really round pivot, you will always get an egg-shaped cross section - different from machines that turn in one direction only, like industrial ones do. If the file is still moving while the pivot rests or reverses, you get a flat on the pivot. With continued action this flat will not disappear but get more distinct! Frank
    2 points
  5. Here is an example I probably posted somewhere else. SS case with drilled lugs, lovely dial, and an ETA automatic. I really like the way the crown fits into the case. 33.4mm wide, 41mm lug to lug. Works well on my small wrist.
    2 points
  6. The Spaceman has landed, and I have to say it's even better than I expected. If it's a repro band, it's a very good one. White leather on the back, red velour on the front. Very little wear that I can see. Winds, sets, and runs. It's so delightfully ugly. Looking forward to getting home from work to see what lurks inside!
    2 points
  7. I'm no wimp, give it your best.
    1 point
  8. Yes yes yes and yes Is it time to answer sensibly yet ?
    1 point
  9. If it's standard 4.7mm I'll send you one.
    1 point
  10. Update! Treated myself to a new DMM that tests capacitance, as well as a resistance range large enough for the 2.2M ohm resistor. The capacitor reads 0.05nF, the resistor 3.2M ohm. I've got replacements on their way from Digikey.
    1 point
  11. Oops, never mind. I was thinking this was the AS 1913 (not the 1903) with the quickset date function.
    1 point
  12. Hi measure the Centre wheel post for size of the bush as you may need to broach any new hand you get. I have seen on eBay. Hands assortments but it’s pot luck. Usually if they are a little long they can be dressed.
    1 point
  13. You are going to have to shop around by using the internet such as ebay and all the clock hand suppliers. Any old clock repairers near you. Flea markets, car boot sales, auction houses. The design you need is called Spade which is common. It's the length you need. fitting you can use needle files to get the hand to fit. You never know a member on here might be able to help.
    1 point
  14. Found a keyless match for you in an old Flume book its a Unitas, bigger than the size you gave. Having just re read the thread tallies up with john's find in Bestfits.
    1 point
  15. Found in a box of random watch parts. Hands have some rust but it started right up when I moved it a bit. Not sure how to open the case. Looks like there is no spot to remove the back.
    1 point
  16. In my fairly limited experience (about 100 watches),there's a couple of makes that impressed me by their quality, over what I was expecting (Omega, Universal, Cyma etc I was expecting quality) : Longines (up to 70s) - not really a surprise. But I think I'd take a manual wind Longines over an Omega ! Revue. I have a couple of Vertex Revue, the movements are nothing fancy, but everything just fits so nicely. One is a Calibre 59 (as used in the Revue version of the Dirty Dozen watches). Basic, but lovely movement. From another thread, @nickelsilver and @Nucejoe have recommended Pesuex as a quality brand.
    1 point
  17. My tuppence on this, always learn the basic principles, first by reading/watching then going practical. Once you start doing the practical you will start to learn what you need to know. You then go back to the written and you then understand more, the loop continues. tom
    1 point
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