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Home made hairspring bottle. 1 small bottle of ink emptied, a cut to size and shaped mesh filter from an old cafetiere and a 3/4 rubber plumbing washer. I may swap out the washer and filter for a 3/4 filter washer if there is enough stretch in the mesh to accommodate a balance cock. And 1 litre of Perc. Total cost inc. the Perc 22 quid the bits were all scrap.

Let's talk about cricket, here are the latest results; https://www.icc-cricket.com/live-cricket/mens-results

Don't bother with the Rodico Premium (the grey stuff) - it's rubbish, I regret buying it. It's more sticky and gooey than the regular stuff. I thought so

Just happened to be following some items on eBay and one of them was a used Kafer JKA-Feintaster bench micrometer. Final selling price - £590!! New price from Cousins - £315 + 20% tax. Hmmm... they've got 10 in stock. Could be a good little earner

have you ever noticed where you go to a lecturer you learn all sorts of interesting things then a question like this comes up and you realize you weren't paying attention 100%? the lecture was not on Rolex but the lecture was on where do Gruen movements come from. Because Gruen was purchasing Ebauche Movements in Switzerland. Apparently those people out there researching movements and discovering quite a few companies purchased movements from these Ebauche makers. So because I unfortunately did not memorize the Rolex part of the story we have the Wikipedia entry below. They start off in the United Kingdom they purchase movements. as you can see if the Wikipedia they eventually relocate to Switzerland. In the lecture one of things we learned of interest was at least one factory Rolex Gruen and somebody else got controlling interest of the company. Much later on Rolex managed to get everybody out of the company and they were the majority stockholder. Which was in operation until relatively recently making Rolex watches. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex doesn't help answer your question though? So I guess a different question would be did Rolex ever make and we now know that Rolex does not make, did Rolex ever purchase pocket watch movements? looks like the answer is yes they did have pocket watches. I suppose it is possible but I usually associate fusee chains with earlier types of watches. So I guess then the next question that I not going to looking for is were there any high-end fusee pocket watches in the production after 1905? If so then possibly Rolex at a fusee watch but I would've leaned before I started answering towards no. But it would really be nice to have a picture. Plus it be nice to have a picture history of Rolex watches preferably the movements as I like pictures of movements. https://beckertime.com/blog/history-of-rolex-pocket-watches/

are you trying to get a really nice round surface to reduce friction? Because you're not supposed to have round balance pivots there supposed to be slightly flat.

Burnisher for pivot rounding look very different from normal burnishers. You can even use them for burnishing the cylindrical part in a lantern. Frank

I think you are using the lantern. For burnishing the pivot, you need to use the appropriate size runner.

Which balance did you buy? The Renata numbers are : A pic of the shock jewels would help.

always helpful to give us a picture so we can see what you're looking at. did you measure the pivots the diameter of the old balance? Another way to do this would be to look up all the various balance staffs and get the specifications for those and see if there's a difference in pivots size.

My 5 years long project finally finished... sort of... a few things still need to be sorted, but we did our test drive last night. The meter is a Smiths and there is a quartz watch built in. Next thing is the horn (ordered but not received yet) and a Nokia N95 sound system.

Well I had to find out. Assembled without the 4th wheel. Movement is cleaned, but not lubricated (since I'll be taking it apart again to put a 4th wheel in). And the answer is yes! YouTube video link here. But it does require plucking the tuning fork to get it started, and it still pegs the ammeter. Neither are encouraging signs, but it sure feels great to see it run. And lest we forget, penny for scale. This still blows my mind.

first sentence is very very bad. Yes really bad. But you recovered nicely with the rest of it. Late lay I can think of to particular individuals who when they came to the group were unhappy were very unhappy because the group did not meet their expectations of whatever they expected. At least one or both of them almost got blacklisted. Somebody had pointed this out to me there's a feature where you can basically blacklist somebody and never see them ever again and to be honest it made me really happy when I blacklisted somebody. So it looks like basically from what I quoted you'll do fine. The issue becomes when the group does not perform the way you would like a you think the group should change to the way you function fortunately those two problems art a problem anymore one of them figured out how the group works and seems to be rather productive than the other one is almost invisible to me as I don't care anymore. basically recover nicely on this one also. The first part stubborn etc. often times when people come to the group once again expectations and they ask a question they don't get the answer they want and their angry because often times they have no idea what the answer they really need is and if you attempt to point them in the right direction they're angry because they're expecting an answer that you're not giving them. Basically people who try to help newbies can get frustrated. but it looks like you would like help and are willing to accept help so you should do fine here.

If the wife knew how much money I spent on tools she would probably have a heart attack (and me too if I started to count on it). Fortunately, watch tools are so small and seemingly inconspicuous that she suspects nothing and I can keep being in denial

I have just finished an ETA 2783 (same movement) Here is what ETA recommend for the 2836, which has the same type of automatic mechanism. (I've attached the Tech Sheet for the 2836 which shows lubrication - you can use it as a guide for your movement). I put the reverser wheels through the cleaner (despite is saying not to clean them), then lube with a mix of naphtha/9010 (100:3) as shown below. DO NOT over oil the reverser wheels - it makes winding hard. When they wear it also makes winding more difficult, and they are not easy parts to find these days. ETA_2836-2.Asembly and Lube.pdf

Thanks. I'll try to soften the leather. Had a look at the rods and now I can see why the long one is out. It has snapped and been repaired with solder at some point in its life. You can just about see in the photo (top rod). The other rods have no trace of solder. This will have had the effect of dampening the sound of that rod. Have seen a replacement set (used) on Ebay with the same dimensions for £7.99 so will get those.

the problem with your answer is it doesn't answer the question. maybe to understand the question better let's look at what needs to be lubricated I assume that this is the part should like to lubricate? Then the reality is you asking a whole bunch of lubrication questions but let's look at this one first. then for this part of Omega has recommendations I have Omega's recommendations notice the first is if you can disassemble. Sometimes you can disassemble with out the specialized tools but most the time there too tight together and it's not coming apart. Which means you don't want to risk breaking it so you leave it together but it ideally should be cleaned and then it needs to be lubricated. So Omega has the second recommendation which means you need to read a specific paragraph in working instruction number 40. this then brings up a problem technical documentation like anything from Omega. You would have to find somebody with a Swatch group account then whoever that person is has to have access at a specific level. So some people may have access to a Swatch group where they can look up things but they will have zero technical access. So you have to find somebody at the very specific level that has the right access. Then whoever download stuff from Swatch group typically the documentation on every single page is watermarked with who downloaded it Swatch group is very paranoid over who sees their documentation. That kind of paranoia makes people nervous who has access. But fortunately at least for a little while some of the documentation was available to the general public like at the link below. so this is a search on cousins website for working instructions then Omega has way more than this now but you do get number 40 which have also gone ahead and attached to this discussion but while you're here on the link you can download everything else. https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=working once you get number 40 you go to the section where it explains how to lubricate. On the next page it does cover how to mix up the lubricant if you don't have this. then this brings up another problem. the other problem would be lack of technical documentation followed by if you do have access the technical documentation the documentation will change with time. For instance if you had access to a newer working instruction 40 they drop mixing up your own V105 because it can be purchased in small quantities premixed. then they might even revise the entire section like the image below they highlight everything was revised so this is newer than whatever cousins has. this then presents a problem. As far as I can tell Omega's recommending 9010. If you look at working instruction number 40 when it list what 9010 is used for it lists that. then farther into the document they do cover lubrication a ball bearing assemblies but strangely enough they do not include V106? It's conceivable that the documentation is too old perhaps this then brings up a problem. We discussed epilam before basically are going to use it in a place where you like insanely thin oils to stay in place for instance anywhere were use 9010 should have epilam. Anyplace that insane watch companies are using superthin lubricants like on the keyless works where they should be using grease which doesn't run away. then let's look at the epilam problem I'm attaching a document from 1957. Fortunately I scanned it so there's no watermarks on the pages to hide. Sexy a really nice document on cleaning a watch and it does cover epilam. Notice practically the entire watch with a few minor exceptions. Which brings up a problem typically if he asked too many questions people will say fall with the manufacturer recommends. But typically at least until modern times they don't list all the documentation for servicing a watch typically you never see mention of epilam until you get something relatively modern even though they been using it for years. the amusement with vintage by the way is the things that they don't treat like the pallet fork. also that they treat the balance pivots and that's not just Omega as far as I can tell everybody does balance pivots which is not mentioned almost anywhere. now let's move farther into the future. I copied and pasted and italicized. Number one the jewel assembly is epilam at the factory with a special process that we can't do. But they do recommend the cap jewels. Number two is what everybody typically does pallet stones. Which is what you would see if you are looking at page 13. Number three is interesting if you worked at Swatch group they replace the entire barrel assembly. But they do have a working instruction on how to recycle the barrel and for that you see the recommendation below you do not epilam the mainspring. *1 Do not treat the shock-absorber settings with epilam; the cap jewels should however be treated. *2 Steep only the two gathering pallets in epilame (see page 13)! *3 Do not treat the complete barrels with epilam, only the drums, covers and arbours. then brings up a problem modern aggressive cleaning machines. So now they have a new recommendation for gently Omega and/or Swatch group has infinitely deep pockets so they can go through a lot of epilam and purchase it in huge quantities. So with the modern aggressive cleaning machine all that epilam that they been applying through years gets washed off. So the recommendation is the last char the cleaning machine with only a couple of components that come out. then we need another image to see what you're not supposed to epilam Oiling Omega watches 1957.PDF

An update. Carefully looking at the pivot on the roller side, it seemed that the shoulder should be recessed a little more. The picture I show may make you think otherwise...no analytics here...just a hunch. So I chucked it up on the lathe and took a little bit off the shoulder as well as polished it some. The result was dramatic. My free-wheeling test lasted well more than a minute. When I assembled the escapement, I got about 50 degrees more amplitude. I am guessing that the shoulder was rubbing (ever so slightly) on the base of the jewel.

The Spaceman has landed, and I have to say it's even better than I expected. If it's a repro band, it's a very good one. White leather on the back, red velour on the front. Very little wear that I can see. Winds, sets, and runs. It's so delightfully ugly. Looking forward to getting home from work to see what lurks inside!

I wouldn't be expecting much difference between the two calibers. its mainly that when assembleing all adjustments got to be up to the standard of COSC so you have done the watch justice. At this point your cleaning/ assembly and lube, so as long as no parts gets damaged it be a succes. Most members here find cousinesuk rich in information data base. Good luck pal.

Today I had to fix a dial post on a Mickey Mouse watch. I had bought one of those tools that cuts a circle into the dial where a replacement post is glued in. It worked. I would like to have a welder, but I may have one to do per year. Of course, I have an addiction to tools...my sixth lathe is arriving on Friday.

Hi all. Its been awhile but now time to introduce the next tool in this series. This time I introduce my Watherproof Watch Case opener, which is clearly based on the much more expensive Bergeon 5700. I went with this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000394753607.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.7c8018028gGu7h Which at £63 was quite a bit less than the £535 the Bergeon version is Comparing the two side by side, there are a few differences most being cosmetic, like the measurement scale on the adjustable tool on the Bergeon version, on this version there a no scale markings, but in reality they are not needed, the only other difference is possibly the support spring, on the photos of the Bergeon one it appeares to be a little longer. The Chinese one had one issue out of the box but it only took a few seconds to correct, out of the box the two raws (for want of a better word) were not quite the same difference from the center line of the tool, so with one lug in its slot in a case the other lug was out by about a millimeter. This only took a few seconds to cottect by unscrewing the two locking grub screws in the Alluminium adjusters and sliding the threaded rod a millimeter to the correct position thenlock the screws gives an accurate possition. One other difference that is first seen is the use of black plastic for the base were its wood on the bergeon tool, well it was wood on the Bergeon tool, as can be seen in the picture below even bergeon now sell their tool with a Plastic base. Is this tool made in the same factory that Bergeon use for theirs but with less QC applied to keep the costs down, I would not be surprised, I worked in production engineering for years and seen the practice of having stuff made in China but boxed in their country and then claiming on the box to be made in the the boxing country before so would not be surprised if the reason so many Bergeon and Horotec tools look identical to some of the Chinese tools is because they all came of the same production line just with different finishing touches. Still if its the same or not it does exactly waht it says it does on the tin (as they say) I comes with a useful selection of tools and adaptors to hold the case with or without a stap and different size and shape lugs in the case back. If you only encounter a few divers watches with a super tight back this tool will pay for itself in no time at all. pictures below, first is the current version of theBergeon tool, then a couple of the Chinese one I got from the link above.