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I use the following method when bidding on eBay and similar sites. Firstly, I try to get a general idea of the market value for an item from as many sources as I can, including sometimes asking people here on WRT if it is hard to assess. If it is out of my league, I stay away from it and try to find alternate solutions (where there's a will there's a way). Secondly, and most importantly, I very sincerely ask myself what I feel the item would be worth to me and then I stick to my guns bidding. If I lose I get to keep my money (win!) and if I get the item it was for a price that was acceptable to me (win!). Also, if it is convenient enough (I'll be awake when the auction ends) or important enough I always use the sniping technique. The advantage is that competing bidders will then not have time to surpass my bid and neither will I myself. So no risk of me paying more than I decided in advance. Don't forget that "This item ships free". That will surely win over a lot of people who would otherwise have hesitated, I'm sure.

I just had a quick look at the "Flat Cylindrical Jewels, Seitz" at Cousins and made the following observations: 98 sizes are in stock, 148 sizes are discontinued, and 4 sizes are expected to be back in stock. Also, the Seitz jewel boxes that used to be available not too long ago have been discontinued. These boxes sometimes show up on eBay but it becomes sparser and sparser. It's looking bleak I got three of those Seitz jewel boxes (various well-filled) from eBay a few years ago. At the time, I wasn't sure it was worth the money but now I realize I'm sitting on "gold". Perhaps a (very) small glimmer of hope is that some (4) of the Jewels at Cousins are expected to be back in stock.

Yep, I watch ebay items I have no interest in buying just to get a sense of what the market is. I usually go over my ebay emails in the morning over coffee, usually takes me a good 30 minutes or so.

Pardon the tinfoil hat, but one thing I've noticed lately is a lot of items selling way over what they should, then the exact same item being relisted later. Makes me wonder if people are buying their own items with fake accounts to make eBay searches of completed items come up with higher prices.

Here is what I worked on this weekend. Wittnauer ESA 9150 Timex - Marlin "Red Dot" Diver, Mercury, Viscount, Electric, SSQ. Two still need crystal replacement and those should be in this week. Most fun was the ESA9150. Needed a new electric coil and a donor balance assembly. What did you work on?

It sure is. I suspect the blue accents on the dial are made from lapis and as to those spectacularly delicate springs, what can I say. Art, science,engineering and human dexterity of the highest order.

I was talking about this topic today in another thread and said I would post pics of a kit I have. I hope this is the right place. I should mention I cannot give any advice because I am new and have never replaced a crystal this before, not successfully anyway. I am a seasoned collecter but a baby at repair. The kit I have (but haven't yet used) is vintage and I hear it does an OK job. It was put out by the Standard Unbreakable Cyrstal Company, aka SUC. It came with round crystals in most sizes, measured in LC units and mm, for pocket and wrist watches. I was concerned that the crystals had yellowed, but it is not as bad as I'd first thought. I did a photo comparing brand to brand, and opened vs. never opened, but the differences are minor. Time will tell how I do with it - I am starting the courses here tomorrow.

Funny that I should happen upon this topic. Earlier, I was passing time by poking around on Etsy, and saw the item in the below-listed image. The watch for sale is a pocket watch - a Hislon, 17 rubis with incabloc, showing much wear. And the seller wants $50,000.00 US. No pictures of the movement. I am not sure if this constitutes oblivious optimism or blatant swindling, but a Hislon is not on the same level as Ulysse Nardin or Patek Phillipe. Being still early in the morning, I will have a bit more coffee first, then, under the assumption that it is a misunderstanding, I may write the seller and ask if he is open to a more accurate assessment of the watch's price range. I will endeavor to be much more gentle than others are likely to be.

I occasionally see this with watches and I think it is the seller shill bidding. If a seller doesn't want to use a reserve price (which costs more) they can just have a shill account that will bid up the item to what they consider an acceptable price. If they end up getting stuck winning it, they just cancel and relist. I've gone back and looked at auctions where this happened and you can see that the person who "won" the auction that was later relisted was either only bidding on items from the same seller or bidding on the sellers items at a very high percentage (75% plus). It used to be that you could see the actual buyers ebay name but ever since ebay started randomizing the names for every auction that isn't possible.

There are many discussions about the Jacot tool here on WRT. It's definitely one of my favourite tools as it allows me to restore badly worn and even rusty pivots and pivot shoulders. So, as a little tribute to this tool, I asked my wife to record a few seconds of me using my new Steiner Jacot tool while restoring a centre wheel. Hope you enjoy it and maybe even get some use out of it. Of course, I made a Youtube short video

Just happened to be following some items on eBay and one of them was a used Kafer JKA-Feintaster bench micrometer. Final selling price - £590!! New price from Cousins - £315 + 20% tax. Hmmm... they've got 10 in stock. Could be a good little earner

All, I made an adapter so I can use my old threaded dies in my new Robur press and thought I would share. You will need to push in a standard M6 bolt from the bottom and have the thread sticking out the top - I found a 12mm long bolt seems to work for my old threaded dies. Mine went in the bottom with a push fit and stayed in place with friction alone, but you could secure with adhesive if your bolt does not stay in securely with friction. Here is the link for the Thingiverse files for the above threaded die to Robur press adapter Below is the Robur press die to threaded press adapter (same link) Enjoy!

Well, I've done it. Purchased a very dead Seiko 6309. Obtained two, also dead, donors. All looked horrendous on purchase. dirty, screws missing, only one very dirty case. Disassembles all. Checked every item for condition. Picked best. Assembled, oiled. Everything checked on install before moving on to the next part. Biggest problem was balance. All had motion after a while, but none kept motion. 3rd one worked. Demagnetised, Timegraphed, took an hour (+3s, Amplitude 168 - can't get it better, beat error 0.3). Used case from original purchase. Strap from 7009. It works, been wearing it for 3 days now. I know it's not much, a low end watch. But I did it. I've done other automatics, but none have actually maintained their beat without having to be wound manually. So, I'm here...ish. Going away in a few days for my 75th birthday. Back to the enjoyable hobby on return. Regards and thank you to you all.

This Omega Genève, cal 625 from 1974 was a non-runner. I cleaned the dial a little bit too, but stopped before making it worse. Simple movement that went back to a strong beat after a good clean and oiling. BTW: pegging the jewels holes made a huge difference. I didn't do that at first and got around 270° amplitude (dial up, full wind) and lines were a bit choppy in the vertical positions. So I then disassembled again and polished the jewels with pegwood... and it went up to 290/300 with nice straight lines. I hope you like my "movement art"

Bushing tool is a waste of money. Buy yourself a good set of clock brooches, if you get the cheep ones they do not keep there cutting edge. What ever you do never ever use power tools to drill out the holes. When it comes to bushing correctly you should brooch as little of the original plate brass as possible. If you make a mistake with power tools you have had it, they run too fast. Bushing by had is slow and you have complete control.

either available separately or on the top left hand of the large set of Seitz tool. Although I would've been nice if it was somewhere else because the little tiny collets like to jump out of the hole and get into the hinge and break themselves which is quite annoying when you come time to using the tool properly but there are ways around that. or basically they realize the problem we would have and they have bushings. here's an image from the catalog of how you're supposed to do it. In my particular case because I didn't have the collet I just took one of the bushings the right size sanded slightly on sandpaper suit was thinner shoved it into the main plate reamed it out for the jewel I was using and I was good to go. Yes the real timesaver we need a bushing a don't feel like making it on the lathe. probably these have been discontinued like everything else you may be able to purchase a clock bushing and if you're careful modify that because there are some really small clock bushings although it would be much better if you had a lathe.

It might be easier to post the video to YouTube then link it here. Tom

a classic problem that everybody starting watch repair has and occasionally other times hairsprings that magically get basically destroyed. Then for anyone new to watch repair the assumption is I would just replace the hairspring it's a replaceable component? the balance wheel in a watch and its hairspring have to be matched to an extreme close tolerance or you're not going to keep time at all even if you try to move the regulator. If you look at a modern parts list you will see balance complete. This is because they hairspring is vibrated to that exact balance wheel they come as a unit of balance complete. then adjusting your balance wheel to match the hairspring let's look at your balance wheel it has no timing screws. This means the only thing he can do would be to lighten the balance wheel. But their other specifications that will affect things. For instance the mainspring supplies power to run the watch. When the balance wheel is engaged with the escapement the mainspring gives the balance wheel spin. But the hairsprings energy is used to pull the balance wheel back specifically that energy is used to unlock the escapement. so this means there might be a possibility of getting a new hairspring and dramatically lightning the balance wheel to match but then ending up with a wrong combination that cannot unlock the escapement yes there is additional specifications to balance wheels beyond timing. now can you match up balance wheel to a hairspring yes it was done at one time. Over coil hairsprings need to be made to very exacting specifications for timekeeping purposes so traditionally these are premade. The balance wheel depending upon the quality will have the mean time screws already installed possibly some other screws installed and then the final timing screws to adjust the balance wheel to the hairspring. So for some watch companies you could purchase the hairspring separate. But this only works with balance wheels that have timing screws and of course you have to have the timing screws. instance let's look at Waltham and start of the catalog they have assortments here's an assortment of poising screws or basically the screws you would need to bring your balance wheel in time if you swap the hairspring now we get to hairsprings notice the reference to strength? That's back to my reference to hairspring supplying energy to unlock the escapement. Notice the balance wheels with brass screws will be lighter than the weight in the gold screws and the quantity screws change the weight. Even here where the hairsprings were available separately you still have to have a hairspring of the right specifications for the balance wheel where it isn't going to work right then you get the play with the screws and the other assortment to try to get the thing the match then there's always exceptions to the rule sort of. Ideally flat hairsprings still have to meet certain characteristics. Specifically the pinning point and the regulation point have to be a very specific locations. Sometimes it was easier to pre-make them no notice in the next image flat hairsprings they are available but this is also a 1909 catalog for Waltham pocket watches. Then you do not see the word over coil you see the word Breguet which is another way of saying the exact same thing. This would be a watch that went to evolution started with flat and went to over coil. now we get something interesting remember I said all flat hairsprings have to be vibrated to the balance wheel there on but these are not. So yes you can have a hairspring not attached to the balance wheel. But these hairsprings are only call it did their very wall this allows the watchmaker to match the hairspring to the balance wheel will understand that if I ever find the pictures the balance wheels. Remember this is a really vintage pocket watch things are little bit different way back then now we get to the problem the interesting page. No you cannot order any of these things from your local material house unless they have a time machine you can go back in time slightly more than 100 years what makes this page interesting well there is the balance wheels without their hairsprings notice I circled two of them there is no timing screws which I said was vital if you're going to match the hairspring. Which is 100% true except in this particular case they hairspring is a really long you can adjust your hairspring to your balance wheel. In other words there giving you the ability to vibrate your hairspring to the balance wheel. But even then the hairspring page you can see that there a lot of choices you had that the right choice for the right balance wheel and then you could match your hairspring by vibrating. Basically a trial and error procedure in the watch because you wouldn't have a hairspring vibrating tool typically then notice on the other side of the page in case you break your collet it's available separately. This would mean that I'm not going go look form that would've also been the availability of hairspring ends because you have to pin things we put everything back together. So it's all here on one page balance wheels the timing screws notice there's a lot of them there was the assortment a lot of them here. so yes exceptions to the rule but in your case if your hairspring is defective for a variety reasons it's a balance complete. Matching your balance wheel to your hairspring or a replacement hairspring that looks identical but does not have the proper characteristics will be a fun experiments and I wish you well on that endeavor because it's unlikely to succeed but you might succeed

I offer these winders individually , or as a complete set. I ship from the US, so you'll need to see if shipping will work out for you: https://www.ebay.com/itm/125578735361 https://www.ebay.com/itm/125428348675

Since I was just looking up information on one of these myself and happened to come across the PDF manual... Vibrograf MU 700 LED Scale Instructions.pdf

How many watches in need of repair do you have?

I've been looking at the threads while doing research for some time. Thought I should join in now that I have some questions. I posted one in "Watch Cleaning Machines...". Hope someone can help. Glad to finally be here, and looking forward to communicating with people about different topics. Regards, Jeremy

This is one of those subjective topics, I personally don't like the yellow crystals but I can see your point of view.

Some dial finishes are extremely delicate Gal, even distilled water alone can remove lettering and varnishing. If in doubt start with the most gentle method imaginable and at the far edge of the dial to get a feel for the dial's reaction. And if you know its delicate then leave it well alone. As far as i know there is no ' Bul ' brand of watch. You could make this your first custom diy dial face.

I worked on this 1975 Caravelle. I picked this up as a non runner a couple of months ago and could not get it open. I doubt the last owner could either. The back was chewed up a bit and I admit that I probably added 1 or 2 markes to the caseback trying as well. Even though it is not a screw caseback I had to revert to the super glue nut to finally get this open. It has a Bulova 11DP movement which is a Citizen 0241. It is only 7 jewels. So last night I glued the nut on and this morning got it open. Striped it down and then reassembled, oiling as well. Not a lot of amplitude but I did get it running. Once my 8200 gets here this week I will go back in and clean and oil the mainspring to see if I can get more amplitude. I really like the wet dial look on this one. I had an extra crystal of the correct size to install, and cleaned up the case from the requisite DNA. I am reluctant to close the back as I had so much trouble getting it open in the first place. The balance shock system on this one was not that bad to navigate to oil the endstones and reinstall.

OMG!!! It's art! Functional art! Thanks so much for sharing this. Lots of very handy tips in the video too!

Hello and welcome. If you post pictures, we could try but it would be a very rough estimate.

I have bought a lot of watch stuff on ebay. Some, paid too much, and some good deals, so, on average I have done ok. I have sold some as well...feel like I have given good deals. Once I got emersed in this watch stuff, I started diligently watching items to get a firm understanding of value. It is a lot of work--a daily chore.

nice find and if this is what it would take to get the watch to run isn't really that expensive. Of course if you have to add in a circuit board then it will get more expensive which is why testing is nice proper testing. To figure out what the problem may or may not be as opposed to jumping to conclusions. Which of course is the problem with electric watches you need a electric watch testing equipment amongst all the other stuff we have to have.

The alcohol is displacing the water and is no risk of rust. This method was used since the beginning of watchmaking (other detergents probably not Dawn) without any problems. Since the used of modern lubricants the manufacturers are promoting special solutions for more money. As long as you do not immerse the pallets and other parts that have shellac in alcohol and the transition time from water based washing cycle to the first alcohol bath is very short, you shouldn't have a problem. I have used it many times and Dawn does an incredible cleaning job, on the other hand, it does not have any brightening agents and the metal is not as shiny as with the specialized cleaning solution. I also use the water based bath when I have just one or two repair jobs followed by a longer period of time when I'm busy with other things or I'm travelling. I never had any problem with using the water based procedure when the movement was pegged and pre-cleaned as it should be. How much water to the two drops of Dawn? I tried that a few months back on a dial, and must have had two much soap because it was going very well until - whoops! Cleaned the "Ova" right off the "Bul" (and here I thought they didn't have any ). I am pretty sure there is no putting it back. Thereafter I surely used the alchohol incorrectly, as it was in the form of two martinis down the hatch. Yes, I am starting the course here tonight, and surely need it.

I came across a replacement motor from Cas-Ker recently but it's a little pricey to just buy and try. https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/accutron-242-step-motor-20-510-900.005.11.html I wrote about my adventures with a Bulova 242 last year. I just bought an untested 242 movement off eBay and am praying hard that it works. You might find it useful. Apparently, this twitching problem is quite common with the 242 stepper motor. I haven't really looked into the cause.

In my opinion gold is a poor choice for watch cases. Too soft and at higher karats looks like brass. Good quality modern watches come in stainless Steel, tungsten and ceramic, along with gold. I don't think the case material relates to the quality of the movement.

Well worth watching.

I have this Tissot Antimagnetique Stainless Steel watch winging its way to the UAE. I tried a few Tissots when I was first starting out with poor results, so I am hoping to banish that daemon and end up with a good working Tissot..... I also have a job lot on the way and each of them will all qualify for the 404 club, so should keep me out of mischief for a while.

I have thought they list items at 10x the going rate as a Hail Mary sort of thing. Theory: there are some people out there with way too much money, I know this for fact, and they sort by highest price and buy the most expensive. I know somesuch folks, and they say that they do it so they can be sure not only to get a great product, but because they can feel confident that the seller will stand by the product. Therefore, maybe some of these sellers ftarget that group. They might sell few of whatever it is, but they hardly need to. Maybe that's the reason. Otherwise, I have thought that perhaps these listings are some sort of messaging. Like, "Meet me at the _____ when I list a vintyage yo-yo for $1 million bucks" kind of thing. Spies did it through classified ads in the old movies. I hope we are talking about the same thing, the inflated listings, lol.

No doubt you are familiar with sand timers and possibly sand clocks, however this is a slightly different take on the idea of sand as a power source. The museum website is here -> https://thehouseofautomata.com/

Whenever I'm going on holiday or visiting somewhere i do some research on antique shops etc in that area and then save the locations to my phone. I then use these when me and the mrs get there to make crafty tactical diversions to our site seeing routes. " oh look sweetheart yet another antique shop what a coincidence this place must be choc full of them ". Tbh i think she actually knows what I'm up to but loves me enough to let me crack on. And i thought I'd married her for her looks .

I prefer a screw type press, I find you can give more and more precise pressure. Although I have been guilty in the past of putting the case on the floor and using my heel to snap a case shut, I can hear the screams of horror now

I was keen to see what you would come up with regarding modern tools. The one you have recommended looks a bit flimsy and cheap. This is the sort of thing I had its tough and robust.