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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/29/23 in Posts

  1. Many of these code refer to ticket repair numbers. You will never fully understand them. I never made any I D marks, what I did was have a book with the persons name ticket number watch type and name on the dial and work carried out such as parts replaced.
    3 points
  2. For the 218 of the secondhand is spinning and everything else is not that's a classic problem of the center Canon pinion assembly. It actually has a technical name but I not looking at the manual right now. The original lubrication for that didn't work well and he gets locked in place and the wheel that it snaps into what eventually lose all of its tension and effortlessly spin. You can also observe this by setting the watch you'll feel no friction at all. So that either has to be repaired if possible probably not or replaced. Sometimes you can flip the wheel over and snap it back on again a little more Friction. For the first one that's 9020 that's what you want to use. For the second one it's problematic which led to the probably are having. Use 9504 it's basically the modern equivalent
    2 points
  3. Yeah it was a disappointing fail. I turned a perfect center and was halfway through drilling ahen the bit broke. I was crestfallen. Live and learn. I am recovering well.
    2 points
  4. This article appeared in this months BHI mag and I thought worth Sharing part of it as I am sure many here will be interested in this and its conclusions. The contributor made a watch based on a Chinese Seagull ST36 movement (an ETA 6498 lookalike and wore it for two years. After this he serviced the watch as part of his BHI D14 exam. Conclusion After two years, the wheel train and the escapement remained in good condition. However, the brass used for the pillar-plate, the steel used for the screws, and the keyless work are too soft and poorly treated to meet good horological standards, and parts started to wear out or crack following 24 months of daily use, Figure 5. The broken or worn parts were replaced by ETA 6497 parts or scavenged from a new movement. As of writing this review, the ST36 movement costs £35-£60 on eBay, including shipping. During use, the movement needed adjustment several times for timekeeping. So, what would be the use of such a movement? Based on the findings, I would not recommend it as a replacement for ETA 64xx. Also, the movement is not viable for custom-made watch projects.
    1 point
  5. It was down the other day. Seems OK now.
    1 point
  6. Ain't it so, a true signature sound. When I think of hippy music I think of Hendrix, Joplin, The Doors, Country Joe , The Who and everyone else at Woodstock. Concurrently, lots of easy listening was just going out, like 5th Dimension, Glen Campbell... but at my house it was Black Sabbath, Iron Butterfly, Yes, Steppenwolf, Traffic,... In 1970 soul was breaking with the Jackson 5 which I truly dug, and still dig. Is 1971 too late to be hippy music? Because Alice Cooper's "Dead Babies" was just so deliciously evil.... I'm guessing at least one person in this convo plays guitar, and it's not me.
    1 point
  7. Carlos was a later addition to my list. Man that guy can play a guitar like its a part of him.
    1 point
  8. (trying to crowd out earlier comments from feed on right) Neverenough, that is seriously impressive that you have learned this, and in all reality something I doubt I will ever learn. I did think one could ... why do you want to vibrate the hairspring in the first place? Thanks.
    1 point
  9. Hoookay, I need to jump back over to the safe zone, what with all the vibrating hairsprings (seriously scary. I never ever want to learn that much, I will send out my stumpers. I might need some quiet time after seeing that contraption of yours. Meanwhile, I don't mean to ... um, point anything out that might be sensitive, and I know music is personal, but: I mean, how in the world did Santana make this list? Coffee calls.
    1 point
  10. WW just calls he NEW . You can either Use the shorthand of Godfrey or Rich is just fine.
    1 point
  11. Timing machine will normally do up the 999 seconds so 400 seconds put you in the range of the timing machine. It's when you get out of the range that's where things get interesting but that's where better timing machine would be needed. Then I assume that everything is correct on the watch and the timing machine image looks right. In other words not a snow globe affect? Oh and by the way I really like the way you're stretching your hairspring. Okay so first time out with a vibrating tool? You do know the procedure of how long the balance wheel has to match to be close enough do you? First off most people don't have hairspring vibrating tools. Typically well to be honest I've never seen anyone doing what he's doing now. Normally vibrating tools used to vibrate brand-new hairsprings. I don't think I've ever seen someone use it to verify the hairspring is indeed running right when it can be verified with their timing machine? Then technically the vibrating tools tells you the point where the regulator would go not the location of the stud unless this is a free sprung balance wheel? Typically when you're vibrating you leave an extra turn of the spring cutting it exactly at the vibrating point then you can form your terminal curve. So providing nothing else is going on and it's purely the wrong hairspring which is not impossible but just doubtful Brand of watch name caliber etc.?
    1 point
  12. I know Ian Gillan he used to drink in the same pub as me when I lived in Lyme Regis the pub is called The Volunteer, he is a hell of a nice guy, we used to talk about music. That was over 13 years ago. I know he lost his wife it must be about a year ago.
    1 point
  13. I see you're still using the colors of insanity. For some of us we change the color scheme but it's kind of faint and if you're not using an ad blocker which goes against supporting the channel it means we get those colorful advertisements sometimes I wonder if they're part of the discussions a lot of times I don't even catch the images the first time through. Just like I didn't catch your image so here's what my image looks like Oh you can change the colors of the group don't ask me how I couldn't stand the previous color at all so now I went to the other choice which is light colors. But sometimes the light colors kinda just disappeared I forget things are up there. Plus the advertisement sometimes are so much advertisement it's hard to tell the discussion from the advertisements. But something has to support the message board. You present challenges with your question and you don't give us enough to work with. It be nice to know a location on the planet as we could probably make some other recommendations. Then what exactly do you plan on working on? But since are a total newbie will solve that problem by I usually recommend a clone of the Swiss 6497 or 6498 watch. Clone made by the Chinese is a decent and much cheaper than the original Swiss. There are some brand-new running is really something good the start with C to understand what a running watch looks like and you understand what it looks like when it's not running because well sometimes those things happen we don't know how but mysteriously your watch doesn't run anymore. So if I restrict my answers to your going to purchase one of those that help slightly on the tool list. By the way this presents quite a challenge everybody here would like to purchase brand-new quality Swiss tools at a bargain price isn't going to happen unfortunately perhaps. We may bill the pick and choose stuff off of Amazon and definitely eBay especially eBay if you purchase used tools. There's other places out there were we can get used tools. Maybe some tools that are new perhaps but it does present quite a challenge here. Simplistically if you buy cheap tools they don't last it by good tools they hopefully should last forever but they can be expensive. So to get your feet wet without going too expensive I'm going to assume you got purchased the Chinese clone movement. eason for this is it cuts down on your tools because the movement is not in a case that means you don't have to purchase any tools for opening up watch cases or anything related to removing the hands playing with the dial this cuts down on just tools to work on the movement just to get started the bare minimum Oh and of course we get opinions. The universal main Tweezer that most people use is a number 2. Then even though he talks about the number five I only use it for hairspring work because I find it has a habit of making screws fly away. If you purchase a good quality tweezer ill basically last year a lifetime and even some of the inexpensive ones can be quite good. Screwdrivers I think somewhere else on the group we were discussing that recently. Signed is to take the easy way out and attached a PDF. These were you get the peculiar problem of quality will last you for ever cheap you might as well throw in the trash but in between can be very usable. The French sets are usually what people purchase. Now a skim them through a lot of the list can not dealing with the case need something to blow with. You get a round ball like thing with the nozzle on it that should be relatively cheap even on Amazon where it doesn't really matter. Movement holder that's an absolute must. Something to see with this really opens up a can of worms and then you get the dump them over your head. Unless a course or gummy worms which I find rather nice. A lot of people won't even touch a watch unless they have a microscope now and getting used to the loop can be interesting but it definitely need something to see with. Because yes brace yourself watches can be really tiny. That's something that often comes up from people watch YouTube videos where everything looks nice and big and then they go to work on the watch they discover it's tiny and the screws are really tiny and some stuff in the watches even tinier than other stuff. Oil pots or cups. The plastic ones will work fine you like catch to the plastic ones are is one that has three a made out of plastic the problem is your oil or can scrape the plastic yet plastic flakes but it's cheap you can throw it away if you decide you like watch repair and by something better. Personally I prefer glass and most of the cups I purchased were used off of eBay. Because I really didn't like anything else that was new I just found something I liked and bought those and then if you really have lots of money get oil cups made out of agates impress your friends. Oh and my particular case I do like separate cups I don't like the unit that has a whole bunch a cups with nice little blitzes I like to move the oil pup is close to the watches I can get it makes it a lot easier to see what I'm doing. He didn't spend enough time with the Oilers oh dear how sad. People can get quite obsessed with the Oilers the shapes the brands who made them. Just because they come from expensive company does not mean you're going to get a nice boiler that you're going to like. Then the color coding is not necessarily universal. Was looking for Oilers images found some other images some just going to attach them for instance oil cup this is typically the one that everyone buys supercheap feel like it you can throw it away at no loss For oil cups here's the modern equivalent of what I have. The older ones used originally have turned wood base and a wooden lid then later on their own plastic ones I got off of eBay were all would with glass inserts this is the modern equivalent from one of the companies you don't want to purchase from but maybe you could find something cloned but for now I just go with the plastic thing up above and be done with it Now here's where the fun begins the Oilers themselves inexpensive is just fine this thing I find most important is the shape of the tip but you can't always tell online which are getting. Then some of the really expensive ones have been manufactured with very specific tips Oh and I suppose technically if you just want to get your feet wet you don't need any oil Oilers or the cups. In other words you by the Chinese clone movement taken apart put it back together to see if you even want to do this then don't even get the Oilers at all. Trying to go super minimalistic. Then of course if you buy oil supplies you probably need oil. So I'm just assume we don't feed the oil of the cups at all because you're not going to get them initially is enough to get you started. BHI September 2008 Screwdrivers.PDF
    1 point
  14. Interesting, I'm a deep purple , whitesnake , rainbow, santana kind of guy. Before my time mostly but i back peddled when i heard it all for the first time when i was 15.
    1 point
  15. English to english translation of the verb to stud. What Freid would call a studding table. That which holds the stud while it is pinned
    1 point
  16. Eyup dazzy. If you tap the 3 bars at the top right then scroll down to resources, an essential day 1 list of tools will show.
    1 point
  17. Lots seem to be a mixed bag, I guess. I can get better at troubleshooting and fixing a variety of problems. It gives me some experience with brands that I haven't worked on before. There were rather more problems with these than I expected. There's probably a reason these lots have been sitting around some watchmaker's shop for ages. Not so sure that I can make good wearable watches out of all of them, but I'll give it my best.
    1 point
  18. Best I can do is offer the Caliber 72 and 76 that I found on Ebay: Caliber 72b Caliber 76 From what I can see, the screws match up seemingly perfectly, though it probably is one of the endless variations in the Zodiac 70 caliber series. They aren't Hi-Beats either, or at least the dials and rotors aren't advertising them to be. Hope this helps!
    1 point
  19. To add to the topic of Seitz (lever) vs Horia (screw). Some Seitz presses were shipped with "thickness micrometer" attachment. I was lucky enough to score one of those before knowing what exactly it's used for. If the zeroing screw is taken out, it effectively performs as Horia tool (pushing down the spindle by screwing in the micrometer screw). I've documented different variations of Seitz (lever vs lever + thickness measurement) here: https://imgur.com/a/hJALq7f
    1 point
  20. Do they know you are coming and make sure you have your passport. There a funny lot over there.
    1 point
  21. Sorry I didn't read the fine print. Typically alum is used to dissolve steel, iron I believe from non-iron materials. So I not sure about stainless steel I'm assuming because it's more stainless than actual steel probably would be okay I would really want to try an experiment because a Rolex case is too expensive to experiment with. But then you face the next problem which is what exactly is the case to be made out of? Typically there made out of brass or nickel and the brass ones are usually plated. I'm assuming Rolex makes it on the same material as the case stainless steel so nothing would be gained here at all. Then usually they may use some form of Loctite which is why you're having a problem unscrewing it. Pendant tube is another name for case tube. I have a link you can see what they all look like and farther down the page are the tools for removing the Rolex ones don't know if they work when things have gone wrong? https://www.esslinger.com/watch-case-tubes/
    1 point
  22. I did email the owner of Horology Biology YouTube channel, as he works on many Enicars and he got back to me in less than 5 mins confirming my suspicion that the previous watch tinkerer had probably installed it upside down. There were some other hidden problems too, like mismatched screws and for some reason the plastic crystal was glued in place, so I'm very pleased that I was able to bring it back to its former glory... Or at least my version of it.
    1 point
  23. All done, the wheel was in upside down... All good now.
    1 point
  24. I've been slowly working through my queue of watches and was looking for some other watches to add. I won this lot for about $8 per watch. Two Wittnauers, two Benrus, two Helbros, an Elgin, and a Clinton. I was attracted to the lot by the Elgin. Love that case. Some have some obvious problems. I don't know what the movements looks like yet. Hopefully, these will be interesting projects. The last lot that I bought I was able to make some nice wearable watches out of them, so I have hope.
    1 point
  25. I don't get to post here very often. But I picked up an interesting specimen at a local flea market: a TruTime talking atomic watch - for a dollar. The vendor didn't know much about, except that he didn't know how to make it work. To be honest, neither did I at that moment, but I intended to give it a shot. I figured if I failed it would still be a cheap lesson. I happened to have a 2032 battery for it, still very fresh. As a precaution I cleaned the contacts and blew it out a bit. Put a touch of quartz oil at the very few pivots it had, and it just sat there at first. So I went online to search for the setup instructions. With their aid, I got it set and running. Now what? I don't need a talking watch. And I don't want to just sell it. My oldest daughter has a friend who is legally blind, and her sight is degenerating. So I'm giving it to her. Best use I could think of for it. I have to find the link to have a braille copy of the instructions sent out.
    1 point
  26. I think what I will do is bow out of this discussion until I developed the proper reading skills to interpret what's going on I think that would be the best solution.
    0 points
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