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Spent the last few nights after work working on this atlantic which has a different look and reminds me of the watches you see from the 70s on programs like Minder and the Sweeny. I now have the Minder theme tune ear worm! It came in reasonable condition, and the timegrapher showed a rate of +227 s/d and an amplitude of 182° and a beat error of 9.9 ms. After a good clean and some TLC I managed to improve the situation, here is the trace after about 12 hours, I plan to tweak the rate and beat error tonight, but I'm very happy with the new amplitude of 307° which is a gain of 125°. I managed to save the crystal but the dial was literally flaking away in front of my eyes so had to restrict myself to how much work I did on it. I did a case clean/polish and reapplied the heavy brush finish to the bracelet, and here is the final result: I'm wearing this at work today, wonder if I'll get any comments, or arm muscle strain from the weight of it

My son has already started the design..

I don't think a cheap polishing bench top lathe has enough torque at low speeds for the job. And the bearings on these motors probably have too much runout for wobble free spinning. But turning this polishing motor on it's side with the spindle facing upwards, it can probably be converted to something like the Jool Tool. The only question is whether the tapered threads of the Jool Tool disc will fit the threads on the spindle. I have been contemplating modifying my graver sharpener into a lapping motor. It has fantastic power at low speeds, hardly any wobble, a sturdy aluminum table with velcro for ready made sanding discs and even better, it has diamond plates for even higher precision grinding. Electric Polisher Knife Sharpener Hairdressing Scissors Manicure Knife Special Polishing Machine Diamond Grinding Disc https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNcauxk The only thing it needs is an adjustable tilt table. I'm sure there are ready made solutions from other industries. So I'm hoping to find something useable instead of building from scratch.

Hey everyone, I am a watch collector (especially vintage pieces), who has picked up watchmaking as a hobby and profound interest. Looking forward to interacting with you all! Cheers, Saucelier

here's a website where you can look up the parts and cross reference and possibly find out if they have it in stock unfortunately for the second link it looks like it's out of stock. http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=UT_6310 http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.A/id.74161/.f then minor little problem escape wheels have different pivots depending upon your plate configuration straight shoulder would be the normal type but if you have a end stone like you have their conical pivots it looks like from the parts list it's either or both of them are conical or both of them are straight. The other thing the image gives you is the number because we go to eBay there are some brand-new ones but you do need to make sure you get the right one for the pivots will be wrong for your watch. Oh and one other thing seeing as how you're new here I'm going to assume you're new to watch repair. numbers down below referred to in escape wheels you still have to have the model number of the watch to go with that escape wheel so we look at the package it has to have the right model number and the right part number.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/red-hard-gaskets

As other have said, can you post a picture. I wonder if the glue that was used is part of the issue. Possibly it is preventing the caseback from snapping into place due to old glue somewhere. Hard to tell without seeing though.

I have been considering a Sherline tilt table but there are no dimensions given. Does anyone own one of these? https://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/303783554555?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=3423-175132-2357-0&ssspo=YzYhY2dURU2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=v36TsHWBSw-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY If you are considering buying the knife sharpener machine I mentioned above, let me warn you first. The mounting arbor needs a bit of work when it arrives. (Like everything that comes from China.) The mounting arbor will probably wobble a lot, but a bit of cutting with a sharp graver would centre and true it in no time. The finished result is a really flat turntable with no runout.

There are some casebacks with incredibly thin gaskets, like 0.15mm thin. The thinnest gaskets I can get from Cousins is 0.3mm. Even with a lot of persuasion, I have never managed to squeeze a 0.3mm gasket into such casebacks. In such instances, I have resorted to using plumber's tape and UHU glue.

As the saying goes - a picture is worth a thousand words

There's a good walkthrough here : And this is the Service Sheet for the 2892-2, which has all the part numbers: ETA 2892-2.pdf Cousins stock a range of date wheels (part 2557.1) for this movement : https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/eta-2892a2

I've been using the Dumoxel #2 and #5 mainly (I lean towards #5 mostly) but I've seen Mark's tweezers in the videos and they look mighty good and strong....Since my #2's are a little battered I was wondering what were the one's featured in the videos. I'm also open to opinions and suggestions as to what will be a durable and worthy replacements to the above 2. Your input is deeply appreciated! Robert

Lawson, I was so impressed that instead of clicking on 'like', I searched the web for a gold plated Dumont brass Nr. 4. It doesn't appear to be anymore available. So I have whittled down a brass Nr. 5 and have almost perfected the tips. Here it is before final dressing and gold plating.

Good set of tweezers that don't break the bank? Sorry, but no such animal exists. Cheap tweezers aren't good, and good tweezers aren't cheap. I only use one pair of tweezers for everything; except hairsprings of course ... a pair of Gold Plated Brass Dumont #4's that I've custom shaped just the way I like them. Brass tweezers don't ping parts like steel, never become magnetized, have a lovely soft free, and I never have to worry about marking parts with them. I've been using them 8hrs a day, 5 days a week for 7months, and at the most I have to give them a light dressing once a week. ... I will cry when they are worn out :(, and they will receive a royal burial with full military honours.

The horotec carbon fiber I got doesn't feel "springy" in the hand and I don't like the feeling nevertheless, I bought them to handle hands and for that, they do amazingly well and no scratch on the lume. I got some other from cousins so I'll be testing them shortly and report back. Cheers, Bob

I personally didn't like the carbon fibre ones - ended up flogging them on the bay. It was a few years ago, I may give them another try.

If you're handling delicate steel parts, brass tweezers are safer because they're softer than steel and won't mark the components.