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Elgin Briar from 1954

I visited the little display at the old Waltham factory today. Here is where your Watch was made! From just a few hours ago… …my trip was otherwise a dud. I tried to visit the Waltham Museum where I thought there was a Depollier and some pocket watches. Unfortunately the doors were locked during visiting hours. Government efficiency wins again… Here’s a peek at the watches owned by a friend, passed down from ancestors who worked at the factory…

Would you Adam and Eve it? English cockney rhyming slang. Would you believe it? Faith in sellers? I purchased a movement as a donor. However picture displayed movement with a dial and date visible. Therefore you think??? On commencing to work on the original some time later I placed the donor in the holder and began to strip down. Removed the dial. Well I never!1 I don't Adam and Eve it!

Just for clarification does this watch have sentimental value? If the answer is yes seek out somebody who knows how to repair watches and have them repair it. If the answer is no you can proceed to try to fix it yourself. Or if you want to learn watch repair first So you don't destroy it start with something much bigger something that you don't care about because everybody breaks stuff when they Are learning watch repair and not everything is fixable once it's broken.

Hi mate, I've actually got one, and the Rolex dies including the Deepsea Sea Dweller. so casebook removal is taken care of Some of my stuff is in the drawers below. I just need to get an overhead camera/phone desk mount so I can record disassembly of the movements as im bound to come unstuck!!

You have to admire their enginuity and audacity. I suppose there are 6 more watches out there the same Thursday to Tuesday?

Thank you both for your kind words! Esp. from you VWatchie, as I was not sure if you like it. Re the two beats: If there was always a higher and a lower beat, it would be in fact a way to tell both apart. But I doubt that things are so simple. John mentioned it: noise can be different after removing and mounting the watch on the mic again. Also there are watches with about the same loudness of both beats. Here the loudest beat will be just arbitrarily changing, and the testing person would be most confused (I can see the future desperate forum posts ). Frank N.B. VW already posted the link for download of free version PCTM and all info, thank you.

That's correct

The solar cell (blue) seems to be well protected behind the translucent dial. The becel with crystal seems to be removable.

Hi, I have joined today. Wales UK. I came to your "competition" late but agree. I thought from the start an overpriced marriage. I am no Horologist but do have 40 years experience dealing in the Antique trade. I have sold a lot of Arts and Crafts period clocks, both long and short. I had an excellent Horologist John, and always relied on his skills to service and restore the movements leaving the cases to my skills. We have both retired now and I have one or two clocks left in my stock that I never got round to finishing and selling. This is how I came across your site as I was looking to teach myself how to restore a Gothic revival steal and iron large mantel, or more likely sideboard clock with a relatively common French striking movement. There aren't any Horologists within 50 miles of where I live in Wales. I have downloaded your instructions for setting up the strike wheels and intend to take out and try to fix the hour hand wheel that has detached from the drive. Here are some pics I took of the case a few months ago. I you are interested I can send pics of the movement later.

It's a complete product and there are many features simply not found in other affordable devices/software and I'm still discovering its many features. So yes, I really like it! Especially as a Swiss-made Witschi is out of my reach. The Chinese Weishi 1900 machine is OK I guess, but PCTM really takes it to another level. I just tried the single noise (which I hadn't not noticed before) and got my "two colours"! Also, since I changed the OS language from Swedish to English I can now select the 50x magnification for the diagram by clicking the 5x magnification button while holding the Ctrl-key. Not sure it was the language change that made the difference, but anyway, it now works, although it's not a critical but more of a "nice-to-have" feature to me.

Some broken parts, but most ok after checking and cleaning. Only got the movement for the rotor screw. It's special. Has the thread on the outside of the tube.

Hello and welcome from England. I would suggest to practice on something larger to start with, probably a pocket watch, also you don't want to start with something that has sentimental value.

Looks like you are on your way, remember we are here to help, and offer our 100s of years of combines experience. My golden rule "if you are forcing it, you are breaking it!" A lesson i repeatedly learned the hard way! Noticed you don't have one of these: Cheap as chips, and worth its weight in gold, use it for opening 90% of my watches with zero risk of slipping/scratching.

It's been a while since I got the PCTM software but I contacted Frank directly here by personal message. I don't know why he's not more visible on the net with such a cool product (and he does optical platforms for the Luthy hairspring vibrating tool too!). Just send him a message.

With any watch that needs to be identified it is best if you show us the keyless work. Take it out of its case remove hands and dial and take good clear photos and upload. Dennison watch cases are high grade cases The ALD will be the makers mark for Aaron Lufkin Dennison

As soon as you reach something on the Internet that starts with "http" (Hyper Text Transfer Protocol) or "https" (s for Secure) it is a website, but perhaps you mean a website that would be more promotional and informative!? Anyway, for those of you who would want to get hold of the pro version, get in touch with @praezis. Oh, I really enjoyed the music by Chris Zabriskie (Readers! Do You Read?) in that video which shows version 2 of the PCTM. I believe the most recent version is 3.2.2.

Here's an image of the two beats. It's pretty clear that they look different. Suppose while messing with the beat adjustment the signal is lost for a bit and we lose many beats. If we just keep track by assuming the beats alternate it might be out of sync when the signal comes back. Perhaps the pallet that was getting white dots will now be assigned the yellow dots? But by looking at the sound it should be possible tell the white beat from the yellow beat. Now suppose we restart the app. It will not have yet acquired the waveforms above and assigned them colors. Starting fresh, it will acquire the above waves again and has the two clearly different shapes. But which should be white and which yellow? In this case, the louder peak is used as the distinguishing factor. Above, the yellow is clearly louder than the white, so it should be reasonably consistent. But often the difference is not so great, and the size of the peaks varies based on the escape tooth making the sound, the position of the rest of the train, amount of wind, and just randomly. So it might not be consistent.

okay that makes sense because now finding a picture of the battery it matches what looks like you're supposed to have. https://www.stsupply.com/citizen-capacitor-298-226-gc920.html what I'll try to remember to do tomorrow is ask the people in the front room to change the batteries how to release yours. As looking online I'm not seeing anything at all which I'm finding quite interesting. Well not exactly I did find something that looked promising except it was this discussion. I always do find it interesting when I find the discussion that I'm currently trying to get an answer to.

Welcome - sounds like you are about 6 months behind me in your journey.... The first watches I disassembled were quartz watches that were virtually given away - this gave me some experience of opening the watch case, using a loupe, picking up stuff with tweezers and practice of using screwdrivers properly. I then bought a handful of watches for around the £30 each from eBay. My strategy was simple Swiss movements that other people were bidding on and to not go over budget - I am happy with most of these purchases (even the couple of funny highly jewelled movements with pin escapements are good to learn on) I took the advice on this site and bought a $80 complete watch with an ST3600 movement, but then based on my previous experience of losing yoke springs and damaging hair springs I waited a bit before I practiced on that. With hindsight it was really nice and easy to work on and my fear destroying an $80 watch in the first 5 minutes were unfounded. With hindsight I think this is a great watch to use as you move up from being able to disassemble and assemble start cleaning and lubricating.

I just snapped up this Wittnaur today, for all of $75 and change. (A bit high for the 404 Club.) It was dirty and sluggish, but I had all of Sunday off, and cleaning watches keeps me out of trouble. It came with no strap so I fitted it with an oxblood-colored leather one. It runs smooth now.

Somewhere along the way the insider bits of a 68 marlin were cased into mercury. So I decided to right this wrong. With the help of an NOS 1970 dial, the correct case, and even the date stamp. This now is a period correct 1970 Marlin. full service of the M25 movement, crystal buffed and polished, etc.

I need to do a better job with the cord...it is temporary.

Stick to one caliber of AS or ETA, buy the time you have collected five or ten used ones in need of repair, you have , 1- Spare parts, which saves you shipping costs plus the price of new spare. 2-You have several of the same parts A- To compare and notice one which might be partially damaged/ worn/ any fault. B-You can replace a part which you suspect with another one, " process of elimination" C-You might could make a good part out of two or several partially damaged ones. Choose the best case/ dial and hands to make you a good watch and have plenty good used spares. Examples; A balance complete with ruined hairspring and broken pivots, still have a good roller/table/jewel, perhaps a good balance rim. All parts had to be made, fitted , regulated to make watch, you have the ready made inventory of all parts, cheap. Tell us about your parts inventory and ask questions before you attack a movement. Thats how I did, so I hardly wait for a part to arrive, didn't pay shipping fees for each single spare. Some spare parts might no longer be available, no problem if you got ten used donor movement in inventory. Rgds

Hi Moose here is some information i have from the Hermle manual regarding the floating balance unit. it might be useful for future reference. cheers Herm-1.pdf Herm-2.pdf Herm-3.pdf Herm-4.pdf Herm-5.pdf hermle_floating_bal_summary.pdf

The extra metal next to the jaws is just there as added protection for the fragile ruby. The screw thread would be to stroke your tweezers over to induce some vibration and help the balance settle into position.

You shouldn't place the glass jar directly on the bottom of the tank. The jar should be placed in a basket or suspended in a frame. The bottom of the tank should not have anything resting on it or it may damage the tranducers and/or reduce the amount of U/S energy in the tank.

Caveat emptor!