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That is right it should be wood. Someone has played around with it by touching up some of the numbers.

OK I will start searching the catalogues for a match. No lathe here ... I'm going on holiday so it will be a while before I can make any serious progress, but thanks again to everyone here. Mike

I think you'll find that between the laundry list of names (and the prices associated with them) and the potential for fraud, you might be barking up the wrong tree... Name brands only really mean anything for the fashion conscious, and this (mostly) ain't that crowd. If you're new to the hobby, the first thing to do is throw out the fashion hat, and put on your engineer's hat. The name on the machine doesn't matter, it's a machine. What does one look for in one of these machines? Condition is obvious, and has been touched on. The "mumbai special" is slang for a severely polished severe turd, but the same concept applies to watches from anywhere (and they can absolutely come from anywhere). Beyond that, look for fully jeweled movements; that means there are jewel bearings on the escapement and all of the wheels. Often the barrel is excluded from this, but bonus if it's jeweled as well. Decoration is a nice thing to find, and often (but certainly not always) indicates a nicer movement. If it's something you want to wear or resell, or something beyond just learning to dis/assemble a movement, pay attention to the case. All stainless cases tend to hold up, look better with wear, and be recovered from wear better than any flavor of plating. They also tend to get at least mid-grade movements. Budget is your last thing. There's a whole long thread called "404 club" that's nothing but watches found for dirt cheap (under £4.04/$5 + nominal shipping). You don't have to spend a fortune on "victims" to the altar of learning this stuff. Seriously, that's about it. Condition and appointments. Name on the dial is pretty much meaningless, and name on the movement is often difficult to impossible to divine from your typical auction (especially now that Ranfft is down). Bonus: Beyond that, I personally like to focus on a particular "school". Russian watches are robust, but simple and not very precise. They're cheap and hard to kill. Japanese watches are like more precise Russians. Accordingly, they're almost as cheap, and almost as hard to kill. European watches tend to be better quality with some finishing. As the most common point of origin, they tend to run the gamut, and you can end up with anything from gold to garbage; kinda have to have a bit of a clue for what you're looking at, but not much more than the pre-bonus outlay. American watches are like European watches, but with gold lettering and harder to find. The US was where the good watches came from until the Swiss picked up the mantle (there was a brief period of Swiss watches being faked up to look like they were American), so the nice American watches tend to be of the pocket watch era, and get more and more rare as time goes on.

Not one I've personally seen before. If you mean the movement make, I'm not sure. Can have a look later with the old magnifier.

I agree with @RichardHarris123 if a European movement it will be measured in 1/100th of a millimetre. Tom

Here you go

The extractors are secured in the clamp and the movement is turned. You would secure the extractor and move the crown. A video will help.

Hi. If the case knife won’t fit in use a safety (one edge) razor blade and work round the case.

Your profile doesn't state where you are from. This is from cousins uk, ebay also have them and other materials houses should have them too. The extractors are sold separately from the tool.

This was posted yesterday by Kalle on the Chronoglide channel, it might help. it is specifically centred around the balance staff in an unknown movement. Tom

You don't think the staff has broken. One thing that might have happened because it had a fall and that is has the balance over banked. That is where the balance impulse pin is the wrong side of the pallets. Her is a photo of what I mean. If this is the problem you need to unscrew the two screws and get it back in between the pallets.

Thanks, John! This will be a fun project - it’s the FP71 with an ETA perpetual calendar module on top.

Why? Don't you like a watch that has :- 1) been overpolished 2) an ill fitting crystal 3) a generic crown that leaks 4) a garish refurbished dial 5) non original balance and hairspring 6) damaged escape wheel 7) pallet fork with loose stones missing screws 9) homemade movement rings These are some of the things I've found in Mumbai specials. But don't get me wrong. I love Mumbai specials. I'll get one every six months just to test my diagnosis and repair skills. But it isn't great for my blood pressure and thinning hair.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. This looks like an Austrian Wag on the Wall. Do you have the pendulum, weights, hands and dial. Ca you post other photos as I'd like to see the other side and between the plates.

Hello and welcome. A quick dust and I'm sure the clock will be fine. Hehe.

Miyota Calibre 9015 Assembly