Leaderboard

Ok, so in the end I got this Boley set in really immaculate condition. Can be used in the inverted style and has the ubiquitous 4.7mm sized stakes. 250 Euro (incl shipping). Only a few elements are missing (and I don't need the reamers that could be in the front right - I have them in my Seitz press). I'm happy. Now I just need to find good use for it

Hi i think we have two options here. Cut off and remake the spring end and re fit or replace the spring with new. In its present state if re fitted its going to tear even further and break, this will likley cause further damage , broken , bent teeth. So best to effect the repair or replace now hilst the clock is in bits. relube with Windles ..

It would be helpful out more information on the watch itself and a really nice picture of the balance wheel in the watch so we can see things then classically of the timing machine if you have a snow globe effect or random dots until you get something that resembles lines all the rest the numbers are worthless. The timing machine is desperately trying to interpret basically garbage on the screen and it's giving you garbage numbers.

None. I learned how to put the spring back in its barrel without touching it. Most time I would replace with new. I had a vast stock.

Wow

It looks very nice and it has been looked after. I bet you can't wait to use it.

I have had good success doing that. I find sometimes cleaning the cap jewels does not get all of the residue on them, and the watch paper does a good job of getting any remnant contamination. Never had a scratch from doing that. I'm also careful to use a new, clean sheet, don't want any debris rubbing against the jewel. Cheers!

Ok, thanks for yoru feedback again. I think I found the problem. The automatic bridge itself is ever so slightly touching the balance.... to be precise the lower bridge. The upper bridge is fine and doesn't touch the seconds spring (which is brand new and ever so slightly lubricated on the contact point). If I install the bridge without all the wheels (upper and lower bridge combined; even without the rotor axle) , the amplitude still drops. See picture (where you see the exposed seconds spring). But if I install the upper bridge without the lower bridge, everything is fine. I'm not sure why, though. Maybe the piece itself is a bit bent (even though it looks fine). I ordered a replacement and hope that this will solve it. The tolerances must be ridiculously tiny (between the bridge and balance). I'll report back...

Its the crystal

Welcome! From Chesterfield myself, so I know a fair bit more about Derbyshire than I do about clocks.

I would suspect that the timegrapher can’t lock onto the escapement noise pulses. If the watch is cased try the crown up against the metal bar on the microphone. Tom

The following day my son came up to me and told me we need to improve the coding. He wants to add a button that when pressed will pulse the clock every second to allow to you adjust the time forward and a second switch to disconnect the relay from the clock. The reason for the disconnect switch is because this early movement does not have a leaver that you can depress to disengage the locking to allow you to set the time, you must manually push in the armature enough to disengage it, but not so much that it starts to move the wheel forward, this lets the hands free spin allowing you to manually set the time and obviously whilst you are doing this you don't want the relay to pulse the clock. I know this type of clock is not to everyone's taste but I'm happy because it has got my youngest son for the first time been interested in Horology and if this can be a stepping stone to other clocks so be it. Maybe once this one is finished, I can get him interested in my IBM clock and we can service and restore that one (and replace the scary 1950s power supply with something more modern and safer).