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How quick is this. Within 24 hours it has arrived.

Here is the finished item...Shhhhhh! don't show Mrs W.

Hi Richard. Nice little watch although bits are hard to find, I have seen five bars on eBay over time. Measure up the case you may strike lucky. There are others of a similar ilk (small fob) which would probably fit. If you go the quartz path. Cousins do an assortment of movement holders for quartz movements which will fit maybe with a little modification.

Ross you can get these from Cousins for just £7 (not one of the usual £££ Bergeon tools ) It's a useful tool - I use it for holding all sorts of small parts

Thanks so much for all the tips! I tried both methods. I tried pulling the pins with two pliers but they wouldn't budge. I then tried the method shown in the clip but that was way too much effort and I was pretty sure the bracelet would not have looked right once I was done. I ended up getting a similar bracelet that's easy to resize but I'm glad we gave this a shot.

A post on Reddit today got me thinking about how I use Mason jars to clean parts in my ultrasonic cleaner, so I don't have to use a ton of cleaner in the main tank of the ultrasonic. There was discussion on whether that rendered the ultrasonic cleaning ineffective or not. So I setup this experiment: All tests had a square of tin foil pressed into the bottom of my cleaning baskets to simulate watch parts. A nut was dropped in just to weight it down. All went through a 90 second cycle in cold tap water. All samples were completely submerged in water to simulate being in cleaning fluid. Directly in the cleaning tank. In a stainless bowl. In a fairly thick-walled plastic gelato container (Talenti caramel cookie crunch) In a pint size Mason jar In a thin-walled Solo cup--I didn't have a cup large enough to reasonably accommodate the basket, so it sat rather high in the water. This may invalidate this case. Directly in the cleaning tank again to make sure #1 wasn't a fluke. Real time video of this happening. Long story short: only the samples that were directly in the tank of the ultrasonic showed any pitting.

Great looking set, little bit if TLC and WD40 and they will be mint. Great buy!

Around 6 seconds/day If you tap a crystal against your teeth you can tell if its plastic or glass/sapphire. Also works on pearls.

I’m going to try Liquinox when my current supply of Zenith cleaning and rinse solution runs out. Currently I put the parts in those screw together round baskets and drop them into Zenith watchmaker cleaner and rinse in covered jelly jars that sit in the ultrasonic tank filled with clean water re: smell and cost—if I had an affordable solution I’d put baskets directly in a solution of Liquinox in tank and rinse in IPA. Current situation works well enough as long as I pre-clean really gunky stuff off parts (like barrel walls etc). But the cost coupled with the smell of handling an ammonia based product (even a low odor one), in a small space is a challenge The one think I do like about Zenith is it is not water based and so don’t worry about rusting parts or oxidizing brass plates. I just use a hand dryer about 5 minutes waved over the round baskets after the second rinse and the parts come out very clean and dry. the only things I don’t put in the zenith solution and ultrasonic are the pallet fork, balance complete and jewels — I hand clean in Ronson lighter fluid with a soft paint brush and dip rinse in IPA.

Hello all. My other half's farther died 20 odd years ago, I never met him but he tinkered with watches, total coincidence. Her mother has just found a five bar, pin set ladies pocket watch, which he must of been working on. It is missing the minute hand, stem / crown and balance, including the cock. She would like to see it run again and doesn't know or care about movements. Since she only wants it to run, I'm considering either a quartz or Chinese hand wound movement. I will obviously have to extend the stem and some how fit a crown of the correct size and tap size. I will also have to find a way of fitting the movement to the case. What are your thoughts? The other option is to buy a suitable movement but as said she wouldn't know the difference or care.

Same size as the Star and seitz reamers, the ones that are undersize are they still sharp?

What size is the movement? Got any pics ?

I didn't know until recently when someone posted this site which lists horological trade marks. https://www.mikrolisk.de/ Turns out the "P" means Henri Picard & Freres. The standard 2.35mm reamers fit, so I can get them from Cousins

But you managed to do it Ross, that's the point and thats why you are still here buddy because you have initiative and ingenuity. The vice just makes it easier, lots of us here buy nigh on scrappers with hands missing, so its a great little device for helping with that. Dont forget Mike Ross has a staking set coming that has wiped his budget out for the next few months . That will help to close the hand holes back up when you've over broached them

Cracking job waggy, she will be so pleased. You might even get that lathe the xmas after.

It does look like the square profile of the arbor has worn at the top towards the barrel bridge allowing the ratchet wheel to ride over it when dial up. How does the hole look in the wheel, starting to round off ? Try winding the watch upside down so the wheel drops to what is left of the square. The ratchet hole looks rounded in the corners and i see no purpose for the unusual shape of the arbor square. Such a pleasure to see very clear macro shots btw, i applaud you

I feel like an 'old man' saying "when I was a lad..." but; when I was a lad it was Christmas and Birthday and that's it. Now my partner talks about getting an Easter present, and then this! Hey, I'm all for more gifts, but if I'm getting that means I'm also giving, and I need my coins for my toys! In seriousness though; that looks like a great new tool. I believe I saw it on ebay -- or a very similar listing -- and thought "i'm not there yet, but I'll watch to see where the selling price lands and keep track!"

This is indeed a useful additional information! I had actually assumed that this would be appropriate depth, also because the previous pinion was at that depth. So the wobble of the old pinion was not due to this -- it was actually wear. As the final-final update, I can now report a successful conclusion to the service I wore the watch for a pretty lazy working day at the office and it was fully wound at the end of the day. Great! Actual real-life timekeeping (12h worn, 12h dial up resting) was -0.5sec/day. Timegrapher readings at full wind: Dup: +2@259°; Ddown:+11@266°; Cdown: +5@239°; Cleft: 0@234; Cup;+3@233°; Cright: -2@228°. AVERAGE +2. Timegrapher readings after 24h: Dup: +1@214°; Ddown: 0@212°; Cdown: -1@192°; Cleft: +1@190; Cup;-14@189°; Cright: +6@191°. AVERAGE -1. Traces are consistently clean+straight and beat error between 0.0 and 0.2ms. Amplitude isn't super high, but fine in comparison with the Omega specifications that @JohnR725 had posted (amplitude should be above 160 after 24h in all positions. My lowest is 189°). According to Omega, the Delta should be below 25 at full wind (I have 13), and below 35 after 24h (I have 20). My power reserve is 41h (Omega target 38h). So, all in all, especially after all these challenges, I'm very happy.

So we need to see those pallet forks BF, the pivots in particular.

If you had posted the picture I would've told you instantly when I look at it it's been painted. Just for future reference of enameled dials. Typically enameled dials have a base metal of copper. If there abused dials like the images I swiped coming up first they can get broken and you will notice they broke with a dial feet were. If you look at the broken sections notice how the white enamel which is basically a ground glass has thickness versus paint which is paper thin. You look at the lower right-hand side of the image the shiny copper and you can see the thickness of the enamel. The also see a crack that goes upwards that's another unfortunate problem of enameled tiles I get cracked. On the other hand unlike a painted dial you can usually clean that if you're careful and that will typically go away. Let's look at some other pictures online More pictures from online. Chipped dial again you can see the copper underneath it also noticed gold objects basically fired into the enamel. As are not glued on top. Also typical on pocket watch styles the second bids is a separate thing. Enamel dials are usually several layers there's one or two white players and the gets ground in between the firing so it's nice and smooth typically I think they like to do list just one layer of one layer of white they grind it than the black stuff is applied in a variety of methods along with the gold and then that gets fired and I think when you of the gold they might do another clearcoat on top of all of not quite sure how that gets in their but it's definitely in the glass basically I'm probably giving you more information than you need to know or care about the reason they like to minimize the firings is because each time you heat up the enamel the copper underneath can oxidize and it will bleed through which your beautiful white enamel.Then when I was considerably younger I once made an enameled bowl which did require multiple firings and there's kinda pretty but the white counter enamel of course starts to get a little bit green as the copper will eventually bleed its way through so they do try to minimize how many times after fire the dials. So and it does take a lot of effort to make these I heard or read somewhere that when they first started up they would eventually end up with huge pot kills a rejected dials until I got the techniques down Now the backside of our dial. You can see that the white is not perfectly clean as that's only used for the front side. Often times you will see the green bleeding through this one actually looks quite decent. It also see how the second Smaller disk was in this case soldered in place. Which is a low temperature solder and some of those are lower than others so if you are cleaning N/A hot bath of water you want to be really careful I haven't had any come apart but I'm reasonably sure on one occasion that the solder had a little different look as I think it had started the melt in the boiling water so some of these alloys are very low melting. Then since I've hijacked the discussion on enameled dials what is not an enamel dial?This is actually being currently sold on eBay as rough handled enamel dial has the casual look but look carefully the enamel has thickness like enamel but it's not and it looks like it shrunk plus it's popped off and we don't have shiny copper Oh yes there is a clue here I already know what it is I actually have a dial like this not as bad as this something that Hamilton did now let's look at the backside we know enameled tiles have to have the counter enameling or else. So this one becomes interesting there is zero counter enameling Not enamel But a plastic called Melamine. Replacement for enameled visits easier to do just doesn't last as well some of them last perfectly and others like this disintegrate. Or get really big cracks which cannot be cleaned. Obvious giveaways when you look at it is it looks like it shrunk and zero enamel on the backside here's a link that talks about a little more https://blog.pocketwatchdatabase.com/2021/06/27/the-hamilton-watch-company-melamine-dial-introduction/ Continuing with the theme of dials something common with this company their name is in more than one location Other companies have similar things some of the printing and I've seen this on enameled aisles is extremely tidy almost in a microscope to see it. Basically secret signatures on dials and sometime on watch plates. Then I believe your movement is this https://17jewels.info/movements/e/eta/eta-2512-1/

Here are the pictures I promised, apologies for the delay: I determined that the dial was not enamel, I followed @JohnR725 advice and observed how searchable it was and this revealed it was not porcelain, so I restricted my clean to a minimal cleanup. This is an ETA 2512-1 movement Everything felt right about the watch as I was servicing it, from the parts used to little touches like the black polish on the screws etc. I replaced the crystal and the mainspring as the bridal was broken off - not sure if this was done before or during servicing. I think Mrs W will be happy this Christmas. Watch is now finished and just have it on test before final calibration.

As watch porn goes the pictures are wanting- all the punches are upside down! Well done, anyways! I hope you enjoy...