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Great explanation! These are some slides for a lesson I created to explain this. It is a Swiss lever escapement with a double safety roller, but the principle is very similar to a single safety roller with a guard pin on the top. nicklesilver gave a great explanation. You may find the slides helpful as it is more visual

It was a public holiday here in the UAE on Friday, so I decided to put it to good use and work on a watch that has been on my to-do list for a while which is an automatic Zodiac square watch. The build went well, however I am still ironing out the bugs in my scope camera and ended up losing all the photos I took of the pre-build and build this also made the re-build a challenge as the calendar works side was a little unusual (bridge over the cannon pinion). So only have a picture to show of the before and finished watch, the dial was in great shape under a beaten up crystal which I replaced. I didn't do much with the case as the plating was already starting to wear, so just a quick polish with some Flitz. Here is the before: And here is the completed watch:

Overbanking is an issue with the guard pin, nothing to do with the banking pins. Is this a vertical guard pin? They are touchy to adjust, but essentially, with some power on the watch, turn the balance manually until the escapement escapes, and an escape tooth has just fallen on one of the pallet stones. Stop turning the balance (but hold it in position), and check that the fork has some freedom; here you are checking the fork horn clearance. Continue to turn the balance maybe 10 more degrees, and check the fork again. Here you are checking the guard pin safety action; the escapement shouldn't unlock, but it should be just about to. Check for both sides. If the escapement unlocks on both sides, the pin should be bent slightly toward balance center. If it favors one side or the other, it should be bent in the direction to correct that. There should be play, but not enough to unlock. This is assuming the pallet stones are in their correct position in the fork.

@mikepilk I've just opened up a 2772 from my to do bin and had a look. Sad to say that there are no other parts involved, and it's not meant to come apart. The steel wheel should be a tight fit on the arbor and should not turn independently of the arbor. That being said it may be possible to reassemble if you have a staking set. You may also need to close the hole slightly in the steel wheel in order to get it to stay together and function correctly.

Just wanted to thank you for this. I know it's been a while since you posted it, but it's still helping new people. The very first watch I managed to completely disassemble, clean, reassemble, and get working had this problem. I've spent ages trying to figure out why this was happening, and compared the keyless works to other movements and couldn't see a difference. It never occurred to me it could be sleeve depth. After a quick disassembly and four or five turns of the wrench, I heard a click and the problem was solved. I was so pleased I broke the crystal!!! But that I know how to replace, so thanks again!!!!

usually best not to start swapping parts on American pocket watches to fix problems especially if you don't grasp what the problem is. As that tends to introduce new problems as the watch was originally made with the original parts and they were Adjusted with the original parts. In other words at the time this watch was made interchangeability 100% doesn't work. This means if you swap components you have to adjust the watch for the new components. It would be best if you put back the original and work with those. Data regarding your question of have the banking pins been moved more than likely their movable. Anything that's vintage and has anything that's movable it's probably been moved as there's a certain lack of understanding of why they're there in the first place. They oftentimes get moved for the wrong reason. Usually guard pins aren't played with because are a lot harder to be played with. Although sometimes on the single rollers they don't seem to be quite the right place. But this can also occur when somebody replaces a balance staff and starts mixing and matching components like the Roller is it contains both the roller jewel and the safety all in one and a lot of times with a replace the staff don't break it or something and then you will have issues. Back to my complaining about it's best not to change things. It depends upon the books you have access to or perhaps the handouts. Then yes a lot of books do not go into detail of the escapement and even if they did go we often end up with the problem of everybody is slightly different terminology and concerns they have. One of the most interesting books is Know the Escapement – January 1, 1948 by Sarah & Homer A. Barkus (Author). Amazon is always interesting it shows that the book does exist at least did but they don't have it. Amusingly they do not have a picture of the book itself normally pictures of books aren't interesting but this one is if you get an original first edition. In real life you would've purchased the other item and I'm sure the book came with it. I was really hoping some enthusiastic person would reproduce this is a 3-D printer item as it makes it a lot easier to understand the escapement if you have something to adjust Then what happens if somebody makes hand out where they include lots of different sources you do in a lot of nice information but not as nice as what's up above words all been consolidated. I'm attaching a PDF. Then I do you think some of the handout is based on a lecture unfortunately the audio quality of lecture really sucks but I do think it is online if you could tolerate the background noise AWCI sometimes films or conventions unfortunately they're totally clueless about how to do filming. Or in particular their clueless about audio the better people will have somebody wear headphone with a noise canceling microphone so in other words background noise gets canceled out and you're not holding onto a microphone that's picking up every single thing in the room. If you're really curious I can go and track that down it's on the AWCI website or on their YouTube channel Escapement handout wostep nscc.pdf

You won't be able to clean the dial anymore. If you do as you say you will rub the numbers off. You can clean the bezel and get rid of that horrid dirt stain with a silver cloth. The bezel won't stay closed. A common problem. I found this way helps. You will need to remove the complete face from its case. Where I have marked from the inside find a punch that will fit and tap the part out more so the bezel snaps shut.

I keep all my bookmarks in separate folders like watch repair So they're easy to find. Then I don't necessarily delete them just because they're gone. Because who knows maybe they're not permanently gone and it seems to be up and running again at least the homepage I'm a gone beyond that https://www.balancestaffs.com/about.php

Reversers can be disassembled in chemicals. Here is a method on how to disassemble/ clean/ lube reversers, by member HSL. Reverser(1).pdf

Hi. The movement complete. Is now discontinued from cousins. The 251-264 is limited and expensive. Might be best having a look an eBay for a donor, only problem with the is you might pick up a watch with a duff coil or two.

Gosh Rehajm. You know Alex and can meet? Wow. If you do, give him my personal regards. Been a great tutor to many of us novices.

Yes the coils are fragile, most coils from quality movements have a lacquer on them some a thicker protective coating. How did you test them ? There can be many faults in a quartz watch. More often than not the ones I've tinkered with it was the silicone chip that had failed.

Hi. The coils are quite delicate and will not withstand rough handling, and when removed need protection. At £12 each times five. £60 it’s a question of economics new movement, witch is a drop in or fitting five coils very carefully which takes time.

Welcome to the WRT forum.

Hello and welcome.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.

I thought i'd share this for any others having a similar problem. I didn't know but there is a metal sleeve inside the stem tube. That regulates the working of the stem as you pull it out to set the time or push it in to wind. There is a five part series on YT that discusses the workings and fine tuning of this mechanism. I've inserted just the first part of the series. There is a special tool (a sleeve removal tool) that is used to fine tune or remove the sleeve. I do not know if adjusting or replacing the sleeve will resolve my issue as I am waiting for the tool which i purchased to arrive so I can take out and inspect the sleeve.

I forgot to report it, but I did investigate the oscillating weight behavior of a "magic lever" watch, an ORIENT Calibre 46E40 and it behaves exactly like the oscillating weights of the ETAs. So, you were mistaken. Perhaps it was just an assumption on your part?

Yes that seems to be the problem with them I bought a donor and all the coils are defective!