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You could always try something like this.

Haha a staking set that can reverse the stakes manufactured by Ross. Patent it.

Told you I'd do a DIY

Oh my gosh, I didn't even know those existed! Thank you!!! Thanks. I did look but anything that had that triple railroad Seiko bracelet costs way to much to justify buying it for a link. I was trying to exhaust every option outside of that. Thankfully Marc informed me about buckle extenders, which I'm amazed I had never heard of before (especially considering I have to address bracelet & strap length on nearly every watch I have).

Hi I suppose you have looked at getting somthing very close and robbing the links from that, if you have to do that put the links at the clasp ends, not as noticeable

...and I'm sure this is on here somewhere but I'll post anyways...very helpful to understand what you have and what you need... I guess I was lucky as so far I've only had to buy one staking set. I'm awaiting my second Seitz jeweling kit however- ouch... Staking Tools and How to Use Them 1910 - 163p BW - S.pdf

It could be an optical illusion? Probably just the camera reflection nothing to worry about here On American pocket watches I always frown on mixing and matching because when it came to the escapement the watches were adjusted with the components in the watch at the a mix-and-match it will be a nightmare. But this is a modern Seiko we can mix and match can't we? Now let's look at the basics that seem to be forgot pallet forks have to be in alignment like this image shows otherwise? Isn't this picture interesting yes the pallet stone appears to be out of alignment with the escape wheel but notice I circled something it appears to be that pallet fork might be a little high as it's touching the bridge? Let's look at the images the two separate pallet forks and who knows which one is in the watch but I'm guessing the second one. In the upper image you can see the pivot and a bit of the arbor sticking up. In the image down below we just have a pivot and well at least give a pivot it's not like we really need clearance here is it? Let's look at something Seiko has touted the lubrication guide for different watch. This is where it brings together all the concepts of escape wheel in the pallet fork have to be in alignment and you need to have some clearance between the fork and its bridge exactly like the image here shows versus the pictures were seeing in this discussion That's from a 7005 I believe they'll be a little different clearances but the concepts are all the same now let's go back to the first page and get a few things Tech sheets are nice parts list are nice and websites are nice reading cross reference components like this one http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK_6349A So basically click on the components and see what it cross-references to. It's hard to tell with Seiko it almost looks like you're stuck with whatever you have because normally on modern Swiss watches the arbor is friction in and can be moved around. Oh and thinking about how this one doesn't appear to be in alignment it also has to align with the roller table on the balance wheel. Now let's swipe an image off eBay they claim it's the right pallet fork and see how it looks? Definitely looks better looks like more of the arbors sticking up like it's supposed to be definitely give you better clearance. Now before I leave the home page at least you gave us pictures. My favorite is for newbies to describe a situation and not give us a picture because we should instantaneously know what they're talking about. Which is why a lot of times I joke about I should get a crystal ball and learn how to diagnose watches on discussion groups. But here we got a picture right at the very beginning and? Interesting I'm sure it's an optical illusion again but it definitely looks like that fork is way too high and rubbing on the bridge which is only a secondary problem to everything else. And just think it was the very first picture?

Hello and greetings from Herne Bay. I repair Quartz, mechanical and some automatic movements and spend most of my time in search of bargains. I’m looking forward to using this forum to solve some of the problems I get with the watches that come into my possession.

Sounds like broken/ missing barrel teeth, or mainspring slipping/ disengage.

lets read the manual again. There is Reset system and trouble shooting sections. This is your start point. Then try out if your Seiko response to pressing any button. Check out battery level indicator. If no success is time find out a watch service. https://seiko.com.au/instructions/pdf/seiko/H851.pdf

Wonder why it isn't working? Even though it is said that parts are interchangeable, doesn't always mean that they are.

How old is the watch ? The rechargeable battery which i think is a capacitor is supposed to last around ten years. Bearing in mind it may have been manufactured some years before it was purchased. I have a seiko solar diver chronograph and have it stored in a watch case, the battery has run flat a couple of times while in the dark It has taken more than 5 hours to start up again. Give it a full day in a light position, if nothing then it may need the battery changing, of course it could be completely unrelated to the battery.

usually best not to start swapping parts on American pocket watches to fix problems especially if you don't grasp what the problem is. As that tends to introduce new problems as the watch was originally made with the original parts and they were Adjusted with the original parts. In other words at the time this watch was made interchangeability 100% doesn't work. This means if you swap components you have to adjust the watch for the new components. It would be best if you put back the original and work with those. Data regarding your question of have the banking pins been moved more than likely their movable. Anything that's vintage and has anything that's movable it's probably been moved as there's a certain lack of understanding of why they're there in the first place. They oftentimes get moved for the wrong reason. Usually guard pins aren't played with because are a lot harder to be played with. Although sometimes on the single rollers they don't seem to be quite the right place. But this can also occur when somebody replaces a balance staff and starts mixing and matching components like the Roller is it contains both the roller jewel and the safety all in one and a lot of times with a replace the staff don't break it or something and then you will have issues. Back to my complaining about it's best not to change things. It depends upon the books you have access to or perhaps the handouts. Then yes a lot of books do not go into detail of the escapement and even if they did go we often end up with the problem of everybody is slightly different terminology and concerns they have. One of the most interesting books is Know the Escapement – January 1, 1948 by Sarah & Homer A. Barkus (Author). Amazon is always interesting it shows that the book does exist at least did but they don't have it. Amusingly they do not have a picture of the book itself normally pictures of books aren't interesting but this one is if you get an original first edition. In real life you would've purchased the other item and I'm sure the book came with it. I was really hoping some enthusiastic person would reproduce this is a 3-D printer item as it makes it a lot easier to understand the escapement if you have something to adjust Then what happens if somebody makes hand out where they include lots of different sources you do in a lot of nice information but not as nice as what's up above words all been consolidated. I'm attaching a PDF. Then I do you think some of the handout is based on a lecture unfortunately the audio quality of lecture really sucks but I do think it is online if you could tolerate the background noise AWCI sometimes films or conventions unfortunately they're totally clueless about how to do filming. Or in particular their clueless about audio the better people will have somebody wear headphone with a noise canceling microphone so in other words background noise gets canceled out and you're not holding onto a microphone that's picking up every single thing in the room. If you're really curious I can go and track that down it's on the AWCI website or on their YouTube channel Escapement handout wostep nscc.pdf

Great explanation! These are some slides for a lesson I created to explain this. It is a Swiss lever escapement with a double safety roller, but the principle is very similar to a single safety roller with a guard pin on the top. nicklesilver gave a great explanation. You may find the slides helpful as it is more visual

Fork horn and guard pin show the fork luckily installed right side up, installing it upside down is impossible Fork appear to be touching its bridge, bridge might pressing on the fork thus might have bent the pivot.

Ok, pictures of the print quality and some explanatory notes regarding my process. Firstly the two complete 9.5mm sets: A close up of the two bases showing the questionable staple hole print: Here is the staple I’m using that is small enough to fit in the spring eye: First I insert into the spring: Then I lower onto the base, this hole is too far out,I reset the staple shank into a closer hole before I winded:

So yas, now that it appears you have two forks with two asymmetric but maybe correct pivots, back to this pic where it looks like the fork may not seated properly, hence the call for jewel inspection and an examination of the fork in place by itself, a check of end shake then division, then with the escape wheel back in place and do the pallet jewels and escape wheel play nice? …and then we’ve been focusing on the pallet fork but from this picture I can’t see a pivot for the escape wheel seated in the upper jewel, so even though you say the train has good power without the fork perhaps the escape wheel isn’t seated correctly or an issue with endshake or division or an issue with the escape wheel jewels and is there a cap jewel for the escape wheel shock setting upper and lower and does that raise/lower the escape wheel so it plays nice with the pallet fork? ...and yes I see from the photos you have cap jewels so without the cap jewels are the escape wheel pivots seated properly in their respective pivot holes and sitting neither too high or low?

Reverso Fabriquè du Bois au Ross...

Yey. You have a Reverso Fabriquè au Ross.

I've got a really great 6139-6012 Seiko 'Deep Blue' chronograph from 1972 that has an original 'Triple Railroad' bracelet. It is going to make for a fantastic project watch. I have rather large wrists and have been trying to source an extra link for this bracelet. It fits in it longest configuration, but is a little tight. Perhaps if I lost 20 pounds it'd fit better, haha! The 'Triple' railroad bracelet model appears to be much less common, and I'm finding it to be an impossible task trying to source a single extra link. I found an eBay listing for a very beat up and used triple railroad bracelet, which quickly sold for over $170 USD! Just the bracelet! I'm thinking that I may be out of luck on this. I don't expect that anyone here might have one or know where I can find one, but all of my usual sources are coming up empty. The vintage Seiko Facebook groups are also don't show any availability. Amazingly I can't even find an aftermarket link, which is surprising because there is usually quite a lot of options for that type of stuff for old Seikos, especially the chronograph models. I'm just posting this as a rant to vent my frustration at not being able to find one! Cheers all!