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Just finished rebuilding this Seiko, full service on the movement and new crystal/ strap.

Just got this guy from the eBay. Purchased as "for repair." First thing I notice is the contact spring in the battery hatch is missing. My dad recently asked me to repair his non-running Spaceview and it turned out that was the entire problem with his, so I put the world's tiniest ball of tin foil in there and what do you know. Looks like a good service is all it needs! One more quick note: according to the list from myBulova, this is a factory Spaceview. Nice!

Has anyone built a wooden kit clock? If anyone thinks this is easy, think again. The kit comprise laser cut hardwood ply, solid spruce plates and carbon fibre rods for pivots. There is only one metal part in the entire clock, the pendulum adjustment screw. (Oh I forgot, the pivot are all fitted to ball bearings.) The gears and pinions are all wooden. The laser cut leaves a resinous residue on the cut surface, which has to be sanded off. That's a lot of sanding. Every tooth, every hole, nook and cranny. The gears look pretty precision cut.... until you mesh them together and everything binds. It took me half a day just to get the escape wheel and third wheel to spin freely. And that was using diamond files and tungsten carbide cutters in a micromotor. I can't wait to fit all the other gears. (Yeah, right!) I set my deadline for Christmas day. At this rate, I'm not sure if I'll make it.

Correct, Longer HS adds to the degree of rotation, be it of the same CGS No or weaker. What I am saying is; in adition to the terminal curve suggesting wrong hairspring, the length of hairspring thus radius of the coil could suggest wrong hairspring. Providing long enough, any hairspring on a balance wheel can produce the desired frequency, one limiting factor in matching balance-hairspring is diameter of the coil. Smart of Mike to interpret his observance of the unshapely terminal curve/ coil as possible wrong hairspring. I would try the old or a weaker new mainspring. Rgds

American clocks with wooden movements were definitely a thing, and they most certainly ran for more than a few hours. Eli Terry made a *lot* of wooden movements. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eli_Terry

Hi guys. Dabbled in horology about 20 years ago. Now that I am retired, decided to get back into it as one of my core hobbies. Looking forward to learning from the experts here. Barry

I have never been interested in these kits. For me its the real thing or nothing. You haven't said which Christmas day.

1252_Incabloc By Factory - Eta.pdf You're not going to find ETA 2824-2 cap jewels fitting clone movements. It doesn't work that way. cap jewels are readily available to buy for recognised watch companies such as ETA from most supply houses, such as Cousins. I have posted the Incabloc cap jewel chart for ETA movements, although the upper jewels (balance) and lower jewels (main plate) are not always the same size in some movements. The caps are the same size on an ETA 2824-2 on the upper and lower caps. That doesn't mean that is the case for your clone. The chart is in French. 'Pierre Dessous' translates as 'stone below' (main plate) and 'Pierre Dessus' means stone on top (balance). In some movements, they are the same size., but not usually. The general rule of thumb is, if one cap jewel is wider than the other, then it will be for the balance. Hopefully, you have now found the downside of working on these clone movements, as parts aren't readily available and I would suggest buying a replacement movement for spare parts and caps. If you think you're going to find a match from the assortment of cap jewels from the ones you buy from Cousins, dream on! Those cap jewels are really rough and need polishing to work properly, that's if you find one the exact same width and thickness, which is a slim chance. if it isn't an exact match, even to the nearest .01 mm the movement may not run at all. The cap jewels really have to be an exact size to that movement. I hope this helps in some way, as I've been there and done that and got the T-shirt, so to speak.

OK, So I recleaned and reassembled the train of wheels, and assembled it with the spring in the correct position. While doing this, I realized that the clutch wheel was falling to the side and jamming the barrel, I had taken the stem out to fix the end as it was bent. To fix the rubbing problem I just had to reinstall the stem. problem was so simple. thank you all for the advice and help with troubleshooting.