Leaderboard

What folks are concerned about are the lanterns, thins discs on the opposite side of the runners (under the protective caps), that allow working on the pivot ends. These are often chipped or worse. Replacements are available from Horia for 70 bucks a piece. This set doesn't have the double ended runner for center wheels, which is handy. It's not missing, it's just a smaller set. Those cost a cool 490... so if it's something you think you will miss, it's worth looking for the larger set that includes it.

Hi. It is possible the previous repairer slipped up , because if he had noticed it I am sure he would have straightened it. It is possible to straighten them in much the same way as trueing a balance. De Carles boo shows one being straightened on an anvil with a large circular punch/ drift. You will need probably a depthing tool to check it afterwards for flatness. Try that first you may surprise yourself and get it right.

I had much better luck my 2nd time around. This K&D 18-R Deluxe set is only missing 3 stakes from the factory original 100. Well, I'd say 4 as one of the stakes was heavily modified. Only 3 duplicate stakes. It is more complete than the 1st set that I ended up returning and paid a bit less for it (though it was still painful on the wallet). It is missing many of the screw knocking sub punches and one of the 321 set sub punches is missing and another is damaged. It does have several extra stakes (mostly K&D). The set cleaned up rather well. I patched some holes in the top of the case, cleaned and lubricated all the metal parts. The case did get some damage to the label as the seller used packaging tape to hold the small parts in place. Removing that tape pulled up some of the lettering. Several extra holes were drilled in the case insert, but not sure what went there, as those parts were not in the set. I did manage to find a local set from a jewelry store up in the mountains. I may end up grabbing that one as well (only seen photos so far). It's the far better deal. It's an older K&D 18 set. It doesn't have any of the jeweling parts or functionality, but I have a Chinese Horia clone, so that's fine. Advice #1: Get a list of the stakes from the seller that are included in the set. Compare that list to the factory original set of stakes. Many sets I saw were missing many stakes, had many duplicates and included stakes from other brands. So, a set may be far less complete than it seems from the photos. Advice #2: Once you've purchased a set online, ask the seller to pack up the small parts separately. Also pack up the stakes separately. Some of the small parts are delicate, as well as the tips of some of the stakes. You don't want pieces bouncing around inside of the set while transiting through the mail system. When I opened up this set, several things spilled out. There was also the tape issue mentioned earlier. Advice #3: Find a local set, if you can. Seeing the set in person is so much better to see what you are getting. See if any jewelry stores have old watchmaker tools they want to get rid of. Also try to find some local watchmakers.

You won't find replacement parts for any other brands. First, Steiner was one of the only ones to make the ends of the runners replaceable, and second, they are the only ones (Horia) still making these.

One of the amusements in the universe of horology is lubrication. Then I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that there were using oil. It doesn't really matter whether you're a beginner and not. With the Swiss and watches we get interesting problems for lubrication. For instance the keyless a high friction component area where in any other field they would use a grease. But what do the Swiss use it depends on when the tech sheet was printed. Omega for instance the late 50s was using 9010 on the keyless and of course they used epilam to keep it in place. So it's considered the lightest lubrication oil we have there were using as an extreme high-pressure situation? Then if you look at evolution of the tech sheets they slowly did increase the viscosity of the oil and now they're up the HP 1300 which does have a habit of running all over the place unless you use epilam. But why we never get an answer when I was in school I assume it was recommended I was using a $20 to above PML believe they call the stem grease. Worked really really nice gave the keyless a really nice feel and the bonus of the watches I had service looking at them over time it stayed where it was supposed to be didn't run away like an oil. One of the nice things about working someplace even if they are really really cheap is you can sometimes ask for other lubricants and they magically show up like 9504. When you're working on 18 size American pocket watches you can have a lot of areas of extreme high friction and this is definitely the best lubrication I found for that application. So it's now my favorite grease for keyless works. Not just beginners hobbyist or whoever if you're servicing your own watches you can do whatever you feel like. Then the fun thing to do is look at one your watches you've serviced Initially I keep a closer look every few months or whenever you feel like it but years and now you look at your watch service it again and see if you lubrication choices were good choices or not.

I switched from using HP1300 to Molykote DX grease on all the sliding parts of the keyless. Being a grease it stays where you put it, and it's cheap I know the pros don't like it as it can contaminate the fluids in the cleaning machines, but as a home hobbyist, that's not a problem.

I solved the problem on my own while waiting for my follow up posts to clear moderation, but it was this that gave me the clue. The washer is curved and I had it upside down. I'd never seen a washer on a watch before except between the hour wheel and the dial, and I was used to orienting them "bowl-shaped", but it never occurred to me that the tension needs to push on the moving part. In this case, the washer needs to be oriented "dome-shaped" to put tension on the seconds pinion. Thanks for indirectly giving me the key!

I guess that's why one would try to buy a Steiner/Horia lathe instead of other brands? Or are there other brands where you'd find replacement pieces? Thanks, that's a very useful hint. Got it! I got the photos and indeed the 12 and 13 size are broken

Thanks all again! Here are the missing photos. You were right, there is damage. Two holes missing.. I'm still tempted because I could have it for less than 100 USD. I'm wondering if these can be replaced / where to source them?

Ah these are the runner ends, i wonder if the seller is hidding the lantern ends that are used for dressing the end of the pivot. Or possibly all ends are runners. This is what you are looking to see pictures of, actually not lol as these are broken, not a biggie if one or two holes are missing , but this example is a lot of damage.

To me the always look like something that belongs an operating room. I once worked in a shop that did the most watches of any shop I've ever worked at and that was the machine they used. So yes they do work but they're still a interesting design not that using vacuum to pull fluids up doesn't work Elm I has a machine that does that but then they throw in ultrasonic and the price is astronomical. Then I did look at the copyright date but I imagine the machine is actually quite old I don't know if you'll build a get spare parts baskets or anything else for them anywhere anymore

Hi Ebert, It's likely to be a Pendule de Paris movement in a spelter case, probably latter 1850-1910. If you can post a picture of the movement (through the door on the back) - it may be possible to narrow down the date a little. I can't find a match for what remains of the name on the dial. Any competent clockmaker will be familiar with these movements. Jules

It look good and complete even with the bow which is normally missing. it is in its rightful box as the indentations in side the lid match up with the tool. Do as Neverenoughwatches said get good clear photos

Cousins sell 10ml bottles of Fixodrop for about £30 which have a metal mesh at the top.

Told you I'd do a DIY