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It's here, and not only does it look great, but it's running out of the box! It's such a weird experience after all the busted watches I've been buying Seriously, I'm such a sucker for the blued hands.

Hi. Judging from the pictures it’s in filthy condition but nothing that can’t be rectified by cleaning etc. the balance needs checking as the condition of the spring does not look good. These were steel springs and suffered rust spots. If a compatible cylinder platform can’t be found the alternative is a relatively modern lever escapement, they are not a cheap option. With no markings difficult to date probably late 30s. Early 40s . No point repivoting if the balance is no good.

Wasn't too impressed by the Horosolv Rust Remover. Can't really remember now but I think it was too aggressive. No, haven't tried Evaporust but have been meaning to. I've been using absolute pure vinegar 24% and it works really well so I can recommend it. However, if I can get rid of the rust using my fiberglass pen I prefer it as all these liquid rust removers tend darken the non-rusty parts like the wheel arbor. Not that it really matters but I want my parts to look pretty.

Yes I'm trying not the hijacked the discussion we can look at pretty watches technical can be somewhere else the date codes as far as the case goes isn't always clear because sometimes I think the factory used whatever cases they had versus movements but yes if they're the same that is a good indication versus dramatic differences. As far as the colors the plates go I've seen both of them I don't know why they change the colors. Probably not broken and no you can't see the hack it's on the other side. Tactical I'll give you is remember the case back as the crown and if there's a lot of dirt and grime under their it's spacing conceivably could change a little bit but the biggest changes spacing would be those back gaskets the original ones that we can't get anymore. So for the hack to work the back gaskets and exact location of the stem is extremely critical. Did I mention pain in the? Yes it's a pain the setup and delete something that you don't have any way so I wouldn't worry about it.

Haven't worn this guy in a while. Nice Benrus with a commemorative band from the Hoechst company. Cool little piece of history and a very handsome watch.

Found videos of the movement service. Covers the autowinder and locations of the fittings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OtbF-5pxRM&t=18s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oINE26WcLU4&t=951s Should anyone need them

The lantern discs let the pivot end stick out, thus their thinness. So you can work on the end, round it, whatever. But- there's (almost) always a burr! Very tricky. I make balance staffs regularly, procedure is: turn basic staff, harden and temper, cut pivots (leaving ~0.005 to 0.01+mm diameter), rivet, and roller taper. Rivet to balance. Finish pivot diameters in jacot lathe. Chuck in normal watch lathe and finish ends. I haven't used the lanterns for finishing ends since last century. But- they are handy for straightening pivots on 4th wheels and chronos! So all my Jacot tools have all their lanterns intact.

Here's some great news for all European WR-Talkers outside of the UK who usually shop from CousinsUK.com Previously, and to my annoyance, Cousins have unfortunately been unable to deliver hazardous products, such as cleaning fluids, outside of the UK. Consequently I've had to order these products from my local supplier which has prevented me from taking advantage of Cousins' often favorable prices. As a result, I have refrained from buying this type of products and tried to find cheaper solutions. In itself good, but as I said annoying. Well, from now on Cousins offer shipping of hazardous products to outside of the UK. Yes, somewhat more expensive but still reasonable. So I consider this my number one Christmas gift for 2020!

If the watch is 10+ years old and valued at more that $20, then probably. Even NOS watches' oil will dry out.

Might be prudent to measure the size of the current platform assembly.

Post pictures of the movement, someone on here may be able help with identification.

Hi it’s as said by Richard broken pivot, getting a replacement might be difficult as the escape wheels can be of different lengths, the alternatives are re pivoting the one you have or replacing the platform complete which may require you to re drill the plates to accommodate the new one. Can you supply pictures of the clock and also the platform. Also are the balance pivots ok, if not a whole new ball game.

Unless you were sure it had been professionally serviced fairly recently i would say yes. And to know that for sure you would want to disassemble it and check for yourself. So you may as well service it considering you were already halfway there . I've been lucky and bought quite a few that work ok, i wear them for a few days to get a feel for if i like it then put it away to service it another time.

Is it from a clock, since you said carriage? It's a cylinder escape wheel and the broken part is the pivot. We would need to know the caliber to find a replacement.

Interesting timing for this particular part. Somewhere else the other day someone was having an issue with a different brand of watch totally different part and in that discussion I suggested that sometimes the watch companies make mistakes and do upgrades of components. The problem with the upgrades are the upgraded documentation typically never finds its way back to the original documentation for a variety of reasons. For instance Swatch group is extremely paranoid over who even sees their documentation. Let's give an example at one time cousins had access to their documentation. Here's an example every single page of Omega documentation as what I call a watermark. Notice we can see who downloaded it contact information and the exact time and date of the download. So anyone who had access to anyone who has a Swatch group account would actually never release the PDF ever the best you might hold for some kind soul snipping out images. Which is explaining why stuff is been airbrushed out of the images just in case you're curious Then based on yesterday or whatever that other discussion occurred that person needed a part 201 and had looked on the website suggested above and of course it was discontinued. With some minor notes on the definition of discontinued in the US at least if you have access to a physical material house or even the site above it's still worth emailing or reaching out to them because even though the parts discontinued it's always possible it's in stock some place. Unlike cousins where everything is online if you look carefully at the US material houses only a fraction of what they have is online you have to make friends and you have to inquire if you want to get your parts now that particular person needed a center wheel which was labeled part 201 discontinued. If you're at the site above you can look and see what watches cross reference to your part number. As a reminder in his case 201 is a part description not an exact part number. So what the older numbering system if you had a package with the parts you would have the part number in his case 201 with whatever the caliber number's. Currently the Swiss have updated their numbering system to him much longer number which is an exact part. It looks like the last four digits are the old part number so for instance your part would look like this oh and the reason for a number for the parts is the Swiss typically operate in four separate languages and writing those languages on packages the size of a postage stamp that have your part where how that would be really tiny and a lot of writings which is why they just haven't item number in the caliber number and maybe a few other words but not much else. Then evolution of technical documentation what exactly does it mean? A lot of the technical documentation we see was scanned by individuals and/or companies for purposes of parts identification so a lot of the stuff will not have servicing information. Conceivably servicing information may exist it just never was scan. Then we have like modern Omega where the part numbers came of the technical guide but all the technical guide has is parts numbers there is no servicing information. But maybe there were upgrades changes modifications whatever that would be in a separate document with a title like this. You'll notice 563 is listed. Now back to your original question of why is your part looking different in different watches for the exact same part and the reason is it's been upgraded. So somebody selling a part they took out of a watch or pictures of an older watch etc. it may have the original part versus the modern part that it's supposed to have. So the image below talks about that and tells you when the new part came into existence. You will note with the numbering scheme the part number does not change for the old versus the new version. No Then unfortunately for me I would much prefer to snip out a tiny image and bypass the corners it looks like several more pages related to the date. Also pay attention to each of the sections on the page as they do refer to specific calibers and not every single item is for your watch. A oh and then the things that are highlighted in blue is because they've updated the documentation in which each documentation update they highlight whatever is or has been updated. In other words certain documentations can get quite colorful with lots of highlighting one entire sections were added in.

Here's a pic I took when I was cleaning my 565, which has the same part. The end of the metal springy bit sits in the slot and is crimped to hold it in place. It looks like yours is broken. You could probably repair it. I'd measure the thickness and use a bit of feeler gauge.

Wooden box is newer style tools, black box the older style. The newer style has the advantage that the alignment of the headstock runner can be adjusted if needed. It's generally not needed, but if it is, you can do it. On the older tools there's no way to adjust. The internal spring drive is available for both models, and still supplied by Horia.

Hey up Waggy is the attaced any good for you it covers many watches including the 7009. ANALOG_QUARTZ_MECHA_BASIC.pdf

Push here: https://uhrforum.de/threads/wie-die-stellwelle-beim-seiko-9587-entfernen.357259/

Thanks @VWatchie, I see. Damn, that makes the whole search so much harder. Thanks for the other tips and links -- and for taking the time to even mark the particular moment in the Youtube link. Much appreciated. I also found this good offer. Also Steiner. This one has all the runners and lanterns in perfect order (not posting here, but I got all the pics). But also missing the center wheel runner (and the bow -- but that seems less important). I was wondering. The two Steiner tools (this one and the one I initially posted) have slightly different shapes of the main frame. And one has a wooden box, the other a black plastic/leather box. Is one of them an older/newer version? Any advantages/disadvantages? And lastly, the one here has some springs. What are they for? UPDATE: after some research on NielsMachines.com, I found that the spring on the main frame is actually an integrated pulling system that replaces the bow. So that's cool. Almost looks like a perfect tool... just without the center wheel runner

It is French and in the style of a French Boulle. I expect it has an 8 day duration movement. The movement should have numbers stamped on the back plate one of the numbers should be the same stamped on the pendulum if so it proves the pendulum is the original one. As others have said we need to see the movement. The hands are original. All that dirt and grime will wash off on the dial. More photos of the movement please.

I tried Etsyntha precision grease B 52 semi-synthetic, it's good stuff and I would have stuck with it BUT it's completely clear (as are their 1-3 and 3-5 watch oils), so it's hard to see where you have put it (or not). At least with Moly DX (which I have gone back to) it's an opaque white and you can see where you have put it and perhaps more importantly where it has migrated to. It may be worth a quick email to Dr Tillwich to see if they have a version which is visible ....maybe an even brighter blue than 9504 !!?? Email sent to them, wonder how they will react to it?

Hi you could try Speedtimerkollection.com in Europe for parts or Welwynwatchparts.co.uk both suppliers of second user watch parts.

From a thread on nawcc:

100 bucks for a Steiner is a good price, it might not be a big set and some low damage but as far as i know the Maker is about as good as you get. Personally i would go for, you will always get your money back plus with reselling it

You won't find replacement parts for any other brands. First, Steiner was one of the only ones to make the ends of the runners replaceable, and second, they are the only ones (Horia) still making these.

yep, that would be nice little french drum strike movement in there, either a count wheel or snail and rack, as has been said any competent repair person can service these. Where about's are you in the UK?

Another productive weekend, I fixed my Orient which suddenly stopped, on inspection I found a blue fibre wrapped around the escape wheel... no idea how it got there. I then decided to do a Seiko 7009 from 1985 that I purchased recently from speedtimerkollektion. On reassembly I noticed that the centerwheel was cracked around the inner diameter where the pinion is fitted... very strange (sorry forgot to take a picture). The crystal broke when I took it out (of course!) so I had to replace, hence the missing 24 hour numbers which were painted onto the original crystal. Everything else is original including the bracelet. Before and after pictures: Here is the movement: Our old friend Mr Glue! - no dial feet: I replaced the dial feet using my new mini soldering gas gun and low temperature solder paste, worked a treat, and here is the finished watch, complete with fingerprints (Doh!): Let me know what you think I gave it a rough calibration, but will wait 24-48 hours to do the final calibration.

I tried a few, but blue was close but not close enough and grey didn't work, so went with a steel bracelet in the end which seems to set it off nicely. I always struggle with strap selection, in a way they can make or break to look of the watch. But it's such subjective thing I guess there are no hard and fast rules to help. However, this is not what this thread is about so maybe worth starting a new thread to discuss? @AndyHull Great job on the Rotary by the way! I always have a soft spot for Rotary as it was the first watch I ever 'wanted', I remember it was a square black and gold one. Similarly Accurist which was the watch I bought with my first pay check and still have it. Here is the new thread:

Fantastic stuff, not a bit of rust to be seen!