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Here are two videos I found very useful for troubleshooting, despite having serviced and repaired watches for over six years.

Well, no. It is not the mainspring. You have to learn how to investigate such unexpected problems. Most important here is to open the back verry carefully so not to cause the movement to start working again without haveing oportunity to understand where the problem is. Then, You need to understand if the escape wheel is powered or not. If no momentum goes to the escape wheel, then balance will be able to oscillate several times from gentle shake, the pallet wil move from one side to another and the 'scape wheel will move a little forward and reverse, but this movement will be causet by the pallets and not by the train. In this case, the stopp is somewhere between the mainspring and he escape wheel. In some cases momentum may go to the 'scape wheel, but reduced and not enough for keeping the work of the escapement. Then shaking will make the movement work, but with small amplitude and may be it will stop again soon. And may be the amplitude will start to gain and after some time, it will rise to normal. There is another group of problems, that are connected with the escapement itself. For example: the balance seems blocked in position different than it's zero position, and even strong shake doesn't move it. Forcing the balance to zero position or taking it out and putting it on again unlocks the escapement and the movement starts running normally So You first task is to understand which group You have

Hi Mike, I have done similare work with tools I made, Found me a used automobile engine valave, Mounts on drill like false teeth in 80 year old man's Gum. Is centered like earth is to the universe. Sheet of starfoam, a few mm thick. Sand paper Glue. Glue the star foam on valve head, Glue sand paper on top of the starfoam. Let the glue cure. Cut round the valve edge. Light pressure on the piece as you grind. Good luck.

I use them to hold crystals when resizing them, i think we discussed it once.

In the absence of a full lathe what about buying a set of second hand wax chucks off the bay and gluing them to that. You should be able to true it in the drill before shellac/gs hypo sets and remove with acetone. Tom

I have only ever had absolutely great experience with Cousins.

That reminds me Something from your discussion somewhere else on the message board should be added to this discussion. One of the things that make servicing a watch a lot nicer is if we can combine pictures with technical. But typically we don't get technical the best we could ever hope for is a parts list. Because typically technical does not get scanned even if it does exist. This is because typically the information out there was scanned for the purposes of parts identification not scanned because somebody wanted servicing information. So that means conceivably the information is available in physical form somebody has to just feel motivated to scan it like for another discussion on this group for instance. Then when you look at the documentation number 23 is a bit confusing as a PDF and even confusing and physical form. It's actually two separate documents with the same number? So the second part of 23 was just scanned with the first part so you have to go to the back section for assembly reassembly and lubrication etc. basically it's confusing. Then the other document was because there was a revision based on your Serial number. Tissot Service Technique No 30 Modifications on Calibers 782 783 784.PDF Tissot Service Technique No 23 781 782 783 784.PDF

You make this really hard if you don't have a lathe how can you do watch work without a lathe? Don't answer that question is more there for my amusement reasons that anything serious. A picture of the drill would be nice or better description. If you had something flats you could use a variety of double-sided tapes as they come in all different Thicknesses and double-sided tape works quite well for a lot of stuff if you can find something flat the stick it to. If he can find a sanding disk attachment of the right size for instance that might be something flat that you can stick it to.

If you look at the headstock end with the pulley and runner removed, you see a sort of V block in there. There are jack screws at each end, with holes around their head permitting a rod to be used to turn them. Tightening them pushes the block upwards, loosening (and then inserting the runner and firmly tightening its lock screw) pushes it down. The V block is slit along its length allowing it to flex, thus being able to move up or down in the round bore. This is for the vertical alignment. Then, a simple tool can be inserted to rotate that block in the bore, which gives the lateral adjustment. Some tools have a more obvious vertical adjustment (see pic), those dispose of the jack screws but the lateral alignment can still be done. To check the alignment I just use a wheel with the shortest possible pivot to pivot length, and put it in the tool (check that the wheel is true!), and see how it looks compared to the tailstock runner face. The short arbor magnifies any error, and if it "looks" good in the tool, that's good enough. One thing I have seen on many of these is the simple headstock runner is bent. To check that I put it in collet in the lathe, and check. I use a dial test indicator, but again, if it looks like it turns true just visually checking against the T rest or something, that's probably good enough. Truing it is simply a matter of bending it the right direction. I haven't broken one yet. As to why Steiner moved to this design- I imagine it makes it easier to produce, as things are less dependent on getting the hole for the headstock runner absolutely perfectly placed. And it just nice to be able to adjust things if and when needed.

Unlikely the mainspring causing that sort of problem, unless the end has broken. Can you feel tension as you wind? Do you have a pic of the old mainspring? Is it running with dial and hands on ?

Hi a little bit of history on the watch and also some pictures. From what you describe it may be a bit of floating debris. Bent tooth cracked tooth binding mainspring in the barrel, the list could go on , best approach is to dismantle again and inspect each bit as you put it together, did you remove/replace mainspring, ? Best guess mainspring binding as it only occurs when you wind it up again check it out, if you re placed/refitted mainspring did you use a winder or your hands.