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I existed before the term mechatronics engineer existed. I had to combine electricity, electronics, pneumatics, hydraulics and computing just to keep my own equipment working. I have never sub contracted any of my own repairs to the suppliers because I know I could do a better job. For a long time, dental suppliers in my country would bring their dead equipment to me that their own engineers cannot handle. I have accidentally embarrassed a couple of hospital heads of engineering by demonstrating their inadequacy. I think mechatronics is the most under-appreciated, under valued of all the engineering sciences. I had a part-time dental assistant about 25 years ago, who was studying mechatronics in the polytechnic. She was absolutely clueless about the job prospects for a mechatronics engineer. I asked her about her aspirations and she replied that she really wanted to work in the games industry. In our dental profession, equipment have evolved from simple mechanical to electro-mechanical to logic-driven electro-mechanical and currently to computer driven machines. The medical equipment suppliers who employ mechanical engineers and/or mechanical engineers cannot cope with the repairs of the newer equipment. And many times end up changing whole modules and whole machines just because they cannot repair them. But I think HR is afraid to employ a mechatronics engineer just because they don't know what a mechatronics engineer does. Mechatronics is much more fun. It combines almost all of the engineering sciences and produces an all-rounded engineer. But until HR changes their mindset, not all door will be open.

Hi All, I started this forum over 10 years ago and never intended for it to me a 'for profit' concern. Since then, I launched an online course and I draw funds from that business in order to fund this website. There is also a little bit of funding from Google ads but I don't rely on it because they keep changing the goalposts. The forum costs a few hundred pounds per month to run and Im comfortably managing it. Why a few hundred pounds? I am OCD about backups and not relying on a single company to host those backups, I use amazon S3 to backup hourly and daily, I also use Digital Ocean. I use a separate mail service to handle the serious amounts of emails sent from the site, I am on here most days admin'ing and updating the site or servers/applying security patches and the like - its not a big deal, I enjoy it. In short - you might not see me a lot posting (for my sanity as it's addictive (same on all my social media)) but I certainly do a lot behind the scenes. I can't control my mortality and so there's always that - but other than that, I'm damn committed to this site as I am committed to my commercial site watchfix.com which supports this site. I have no interest in shutting down, selling or otherwise changing this sites format. Having said that, if anyone wants to consider taking on moderation tasks to help (in particular, making sure people post in the correct place and moderating new members posts) that would be very helpful. (Only members who have been active for more than a year please). Finally, thanks very much for your support and kind words - I truly appreciate that. This forum has to be one of the friendliest I am part of - a massive refreshment after reading some of the Facebook groups I'm part of - except mine FB group - that's also great with great people

What I've found with Facebook groups and yes i am in a few , its good to have more than one source of information on specialised areas such as lathe restoration or just military watches etc. They dont have the same ethics that we have here, we all seem to look out for each other here, a good close knit group that encourage new members and each other daily. We have a laugh sometimes and really help each other out and support each other. All the support i received about my mum was so kind, i wouldn't have got that anywhere else. A lot of these facebook groups are full of aholes and sarcastic gate keepers. I consider our forum to be very unique, but the subject of # if it ever Dissappears # honestly i think does need addressing . We're really just after a connection site Michael not a full function chat group. Just a way to re-connect if something happens. But the other big thing is all the stored information how that can remain accessible.

Yes exactly scott, i managed to make it run perfectly true and then reintroduced some calculated wobble using a special formula that i created myself .

Well Gentlemen and Ladies I think we should thank @Mark for his posts putting our minds to rest and the explanation of running the site which is done very well. As a resource for watch repairs for new and old I would rate it second to none, the casual banter and dissemination of information top notch, let us ll enjoy working on here and helping others. Any one can PM me as Iam sure others as well if it has to off the “record” and Marks blessing on that. We appreciate that Mark is a busy man and totally appreciate what he does for us all. So from me THANK YOU MARK. from an old timer.

Er yeah, not quite sure how to respond to that one Mark . But yes i fully appreciate what you have done here today. I look at it like this, i dont know if you have children Mark, i have a son and a daughter both around 30 years old but still my babies. I remind them every couple of months, " if something happens to me, i get run over by a bus, i have a heart attack while out running, I eat a very dodgy burger, you know where the spare hidden house keys are dont you, you know where the stashes of money are don't you, you know the things i have that are valuable don't you, you know how to deal with my finances don't you, you know the value of my watchroom and where the value lists of all the tools and watch collections i have are dont you, dont mess it up and dont get ripped off i want you to be rich when I'm gone " This forum is your baby Mark, i dont think i need to say any more. Appreciate your time Mark, live long and prosper matey Oh my flipping god, who's old enough to remember when the Iron lady came to power, i remember the old bag took my morning milk away from me. So I'm only going to ask you this once Rich " where is Ross and where is Nucejoe and what have you done with them " Ross my allstar and Nucejoe one of my wingmen, i aint happy Rich not happy at all.

As long as it’s legal and not spamming, information shared in private messaging between two consenting members is no concern of mine matey this isn’t eBay

Same show.different vendor. $1US plus battery and polished the crystal and wiped the case. Added the spring bars and strap, which has a small cut that needs glue. This one has a hatch to change the battery and hand setting and hack crown is on the back! Rubber strap replaced with the brown leather with the cut. It's a West Germany dial. Edit" to be clear the Barton strap did not come with the watch when purchased, that was for testing and from my own stock.

Demagnetize it first and the tools you are using. Get yourself a tin of Ronsonol lighter fluid. A small jar with a screw on lid. Put the balance in that for a few minutes, get some tissue paper put the balance on that then dry with you bench blower, oil both staff pivots and put it back in the movement. This is what I always used to do never had any problems. I have tried one dip and it was rubbish a waste of money. Ronsonol is very friendly to shellac so no worries there.

Facebook is a big NO from me. I have nothing to do with any of these sorts of places.

you mean your improved 3D oscillation design upgrade

I could only improve it, its still not perfect, the slight bit of wobble left seems to add to the agitation.

Walked by my local jeweler today and asked if I could dig around in his old watch case, and picked this guy up (along with a cool vintage compass and a Seiko kinetic5M62). My girlfriend's son asked if he could borrow one of my pocket watches for prom, so I thought if I can get this guy running it'd be a nice prom gift. Non-running. Felt like the balance was overbanked, but it turns out the train was jammed solid. Looks like it was just dried lubricant gluing the 3rd wheel in place, because it's clean as a whistle otherwise. Parts are in the ultrasonic right now.

Absolutely WW , i know you speak for us all when you say this. So Mark, Old hippy, other moderators, the pros and the old timers, yes you especially WW. The ones that always help us out with advice, give up their time for us and never ask for anything in return. Cheers me dears.

I have to add my thanks to @Mark for all he does here and his other site. It was Marks YouTube channel which got me into the track of the possibilities of repairing my own watches and servicing them. If I can help out at all as a moderator I volunteer wholeheartedly. Tom

Hi it depends on the watch. The ones with the day date complications dial dots are not really any good as you have difficulty getting the clearance between day date wheels a the dial. Dial feet can be fitted no problem, there are several options, the cheapest is to mill out where the foot is and glue a new foot on. ( available fron Cousins UK ) mterialhouse . Or solder on a new foot, only problem with that is you need great care not to mark the dial. I use a DIY. Dial foot machine works no problem.

If everything is inside them, then once restored and keeping time the oris could be worth 20 -30 each, I've paid a lot more Oris date pointers in the past. Bought this last week for a quid at a carboot sale. A cute little Smiths made in England alarm clock. The alarm didn’t function properly because the movement wasn't fastened in. But it runs perfectly now, the previous made a bit of a mess of the dial but i still love it. For the Smiths lovers here's a picture of the inside before i case it up again. Still with it the original Jewellers box.

I banished them without the right to do so, why because I'm jealous . @rossjackson01has become amazing with his tiny space and lack of funds and @Nucejoe because, he knows more than me. I hate them both. Hehe. If any of you two are reading this?, I'm sure you know, I'm joking. Not about your abilities though. Both brilliant.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.

Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. We have all done it and worse.

Hi other than testing the coil without the proper tools it will be difficult. If you +an rig up an external supply and attach it to the cut block you may be able to pick up the pulses on the chip if not on the coil. i have attached the parts sheet for the watch 9362 which gives you the part number of the cut board assembly, whether this part is still available or not , who knows. ETA 9360, 9361, 9362.pdf

Hi and welcome. First of all, check the power reserve. If the watch is runing, this means the spring is attached to the barrel arbor. If there is no end of winding, this probably means that the spring is not attached to the barreland it's outer end is slipping. In such case, the watch will run, but the power reserve will be small - about several hours

Hi welcome to the forum. One can only reiterate the diagnosis already made by clockboy mainspring problem. But before tearing it to pieces take a little time to read the attached file to acquaint yourself with all the various parts. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

We think about these preps as "one-dips" partly because they are terrific solvents but also because the parts they are used on are often cleaner in general than many other parts. But old oils petrify, and even something like B-Dip can't clean up over-soiled parts without some extra effort, as mentioned above. There is an intermediate step during cleaning where the solvent can partially dissolve tarry residues so they have a more liquid varnish-like consistency, and that could well be what you are seeing on the coils after two washes. I wouldn't worry that your B-Dip was contaminated before you used it on this hairspring, but it I wouldn't re-use that aliquot AFTER this cleaning!

Welcome to the forum, enjoy.. Normally if a hand wound watch does not fully wind ie just keeps winding there is an error with mainspring, either slipping around its winding arbour or the mainspring is broken.

Hello, I hope you don't mind me responding. I'm brand new to this forum, and the hobby (it's a hobby for me rather than a profession). I just wanted to say that if I've recently joined, there must be hope for the forum. The forum pops up on a lot of google-searched watch questions, which drew me to it. It certainly doesn't look like a forum in trouble, in fact it seems highly responsive and relevant. Just a perspective from a newbie, hope it helps. Sam

Most all my 404 candidates are coming from swap meets and "antiques fairs". One more $4US plus battery and elbow grease. Unnamed digital on a decent ss bracelet. Gains 10 seconds a day so not that accurate...

£4.04 originally worked out to $5, or thereabouts accounting for currency fluctuations. Inflation calculator from 2020 (when the thread was started, though not when Andy coined the term) says we're looking at $6 currently. What currency is the 6.99 inflation adjusted figure cited in the poll? $6 may still seem restrictive, but don't forget that's part of the point. It's a challenge. Thrill of the hunt and all. Diamonds in the rough. Also, and my personal angle on the game, a fun and inexpensive way to learn watchmaking skills.

I actually sent a message to him on eBay asking exactly that. They all look like snap-on casebooks so should be easy enough to get the photos.

Looked all over and I can't find it. Pity Ranfft movement identifier doesn't work. The closest movements I've seen, from general layout, and shape of keyless are Corterbert.

Well, this stickiness was only on 1 or 2 turns at first. After using the B-Dip, I can actually manipulate the the turns in such a way that ALL of them stick on one side and I can pull them apart and you will still see a few sticking still so there is either residue from the B-dip or the initial crud that B-dip didn't remove. What bothers me most is that I can still see liquid in-between the turns holding them together, as if the dip didn't completely evaporate. When I get a chance, I'm going to try an alcohol or lighter fluid dip and see what happens. I don't have a very fine brush for this, so that might have to be the next step.

Couple of Oris in there , early Oris were pretty small , around 28mm , the first 2 could be 45x or 49x series calibers. The Unicorn might also be an Oris, to know that these will be pin pallet watches if there is no jewel count on the dial. The other 3 will be much the same. The Oris are ok and have some value, as far as pin pallets go Oris were very good as thats all they were allowed to work with for a long time, so they made sure they got the best out of them. Its good to inside though, at the most basic level of inspection of an Ebay sale at least you can see if anything is missing inside, otherwise its just pure luck. Ask the sell if he will add some pictures of the insde for you to privately look at.

I don't know, Chemical Engineering for me, but I would think it would be useful in the robotics field which is in demand.

Demagnetising of an anvil will depend of the anvil size. If it is big, then nither Elma, nor chinese clone will do the job. But the K&D from the picture will do. Have in mind that the bigger is the object, the stronger is the magnetic force that it will fill inside the field. If You can't hold the object still, then You will need demagnetiser that works on higher frequency rather than smaller one.

Nice! I have lately been buying up a handful of Arnex pieces on eBay because it is often obvious even without photos that they house a fine Unitas 6498. And many of the 1970s cases and "old timey themed" dials are irredeemably ugly so they are a cheap way to pickup great movements to power custom wristwatch projects. All of the ones I've bought were in like new condition, barely used assuming they were bought as graduation or retirement gifts in the 70s or 80s.

Thanks for the advice! This is the ending shape that kept the collet in the middle of the pivot throughout the sweep of the adjuster. Ended with a gain of 30-40 amplitude, +15s/d and <1ms BE. Very happy with the result.

Neverenoughwatches. I did read your experience with the basket. I did try to file mine to true it up..but I couldn't find the sweet spot. I figured I would just bite the bullet and get the Elma components. Thanks Randy

My mentor has been using one of the Chinese clones for several years. Seems to work very well. Just put the object you wish to demagnetize in the centre of the cross and press the button. One word of caution though, the quality and QC of Chinese clones can vary a lot. You'll never know whether you got a gem or a lemon.

You could also use a very fine artist's brush to brush between the coils. If you get a size 00 or even 000 that should be small enough for convenience, and with bristles so fine that they are incapable of damaging the hairspring. Get a good one though, like Windsor-Newton or similar. I have never had a Windsor-Newton brush shed on my art or other work. You want a soft brush that will not shed.

How about using a magnetised screwdriver for picking-up and fitting screw, then run the assembly through a demagnetiser. I know magnetism is a no no, but this method is less fiddly, and has worked for me on several occasions.

Just as an update - I got the replacement movement and have changed it out. Hit a few small hiccups like having to change the date ring, and the watch was a front loader so had a scary time opening the front hoping it didn't break It's all working now - just need to fit the crown back on the new stem (I think I've either broken the original crown, or there is a bit of the old stem stuck inside) or fit a new crown. Thanks for all the help

I wonder whats inside, bought it blindly, not cheap at all.

I just found these. They don't really grab my eye at the moment, but having seen the change in some of the watches on here, before & after, the results have been pretty impressive. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/196382906131?itmmeta=01HXBSJJXDB5J6H916ARJP9PHE&hash=item2db9555713:g:REwAAOSwUNdmOYAZ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwOAlUO3a1pAUX60Y8gUeXMPriraj5e7rkBNH2EA6cIUH7kb7hzoq6jRmOsYOQazk9R%2FteDESr1e50Asabv2tbJyDM%2FVODtmrAScFS4jPhHdgu6Jvt%2BFuRGBijpTkPl4NiK%2FDGr6qztc1Ujb33Tt6YdaUztOH9R1y9XJbwjH0puPDy8m0ilYcal7Vphcp7d59DLtBliNnbqfxfWhxdia2xMRyHYFHzR0Rg7NqB1z4xQGMZb73MAG4QBiF9FMkrII88Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_KuyvnqYw

Here's a size chart. 40mm is about 17¾L. I looked in Bestfit but couldn't find anything close.

It is possible to true the pearl basket to run better takes a good hour of filing though.

I agree, very minimalist dial, but then the diamond. The 1973 R has a black dial and gold case and is similar in layout. But on the MyBulova site there really is nothing else like it...

1973 Bulova Diamond Excellency Q. 11 AN mov't manual wind. Love the UFO look of this one. Not sure the size of the diamond but looking around for an advertisement to see if it is.listed....strap is not original but the buckle is signed along with the crown. In excellent condition.

Being a cheapskate, I bought one of these to use on balance screws. It needed some reshaping of the tips, but does the job well enough. You could use it on the balance cock screw.