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Morning OH, absolutely not, that has never been the intention, there does seem to be a lot of emphasis placed on that point. Its only a contact storage location. Honestly OH , i cant get my head around why anyone wants to think why members would be pulled away from a forum that works so well. Your fear of losing the forum OH is exactly the same as everyone else's. Hopefully it will wont happen for a very long time, but not having a back up would mean that everything would be lost if it ever came to that. Scott has set that up for anyone that wants a failsafe, if they are not comfortable with it then of course they dont need to participate. Its entirely of their free will.4 points
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After a 3-week work fiasco that took up 137% of my time, I was finally able to get back to restoring a G. Boley 8mm lathe I picked up on eBay. I still need to do a bit of polishing on the tailstock but it works very nicely. Before and after pictures below. In any case, when I was reassembling the motor I wasn't quite sure which side the pully attached to, or if it matters. My question is ... does it matter? The listing photo below shows it the reverse of how I have it now, but it seemed that the cord and the reversing lever(s) should be on the right away from the belt.
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The diameter is that of the ring - afaik, will have to look it up. “Wiggle room“ doesn‘t matter as long as the spring length is in the ball park. Essential sizes of a mainspring are thickness, width and length. Diameter is just a hint if you can push into the barrel directly or will need a winder, it is no property of the spring. Frank3 points
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Wow what a difference. As long as you are happy with the set up and it works for you it makes no odds. The belt is in line with the pulleys so no problem there. No questions are silly on this site.3 points
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Ok. Update. Checked under a microscope, there is no lip, it just looks like one. So, I'm convinced I need to back the ring out. I'll need to make a tool of some sort.2 points
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OK, a little bit more from today's lecture about the main springs. Generally, the spring in the barrel is limited and can't unwind fully. With the blue line is shown the reserve/torque relation when spring unwinding is limited by the barrel. The green line represents the same when the spring is free to unwind fully And the red line shows the minimum torque that is needed for the movement to keep running. The yelow graph shows how the torque changes (from the blue) when the spring gets weaker (set) after 100 years of work. The purple line represents thinner and longer spring in the same barrel. As You can see, using thinner and longer spring will increase the power reserve. The 'set' spring will have the same reserve as a new one with the same sizes, only the amplitude will be just a little smaller. Of course, this is true only when the movement othervice is in good health ( the red line is lo enough)
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I'd say it's more like.
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No, trus me, this is totally wrong. Firs of all, there is theoretical lenght for a fixed other parameters (spring thickness, barrel internal diameter and arbour diameter), which will give maximal power reserve. This is written in all text books, but I have never seen in the text books mathematical expression (formula) of the relation lenght/power reserve. I am to lazy to generate that expression now, but will draw for You the graphical representation of it. As You can see, there is a maximum in the middle, but the slope near the maximum is really small, so even change of the lenght of let say +/- 30% doesn't lead to significant change of the power reserve. More to that, sometimes movement designers put much longer springs in the barrels than the theoretical lenght for maximm reserve. This is ecpecially in high grade movements. You will sometimes see that the spring covers not the half, but actually 2/3 of the barrel free space. The designers compensate this loss of power reserve by usage of bigger barrels. This way they achieve much smaller difference in full wind / end of power reserve torque. In such case, reducing the spring lenght leads to increasing of power reserve...
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I went with 8.90£ because 12th century Italian mathematicians are always excellent topics to bring up when trying to get your guests to go home.2 points
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You are so true on a lot of what you have said. The main reason for changing the mainspring even if the old one is in good order is because it will take out your thinking that the mainspring is contributing to poor power output or fluctuations in amplitude. If a new spring is fitted that box can be crossed off as a potential source of a problem. Most customers are happy to pay the extra £20 for a new mainspring if they are already parting with a couple of hundred pounds for a service. A new spring is an investment for good running for the future.2 points
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Look at his T shirt about 22 minutes in. https://youtu.be/GSYQNnZ-MNE?si=M_s0I-TE4I_HRilY1 point
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Good evening from sunny Lancashire, new member saying hello, been repairing watches for some time now. Frequently trawling forums but never joining .... until now. Looking forward to being able to reach out to the community for assistance and advice, and hopefully, I'll be able to contribute with some of my past experiences.1 point
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Thanks for the warm welcome everyone. RichardHarris123, park benches round here have red and white rose, only just over1 point
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Sensible precautions @rjenkinsgb. I remember as a lad, my mate's dad ran a garage. I can clearly remember watching him change break pads. He used an airline to blow the dust out, (when pads used asbestos), and we used to practically bathe in "carbon tet". But then he did smoke about 40 cigs a day. Makes me shudder to think about it.1 point
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Thats a good record Michael, i always do a quick scan through sone of the feedback comments to make sure there are a good few of them relating to sales and not just purchaese. Feedback can be faked but you can usually spot the dodgy sellers. I have heard that before about lots of orphan watches in Australia . How far overseas are you going with buying ? There are lots of good sellers here in the UK, shipping is a bit prohibitive though. Main reason for seeing non cased vintages watches would have been the scrapage of the precious metal cases. I think we decide early on what we want from the hobby, whether that is to repair for the fun, enjoyment and sheer challenge of learning something obscure. To collect watches and have that ability to maintain them, to gain financially from re-sale or a mixture of those. Its also important to remain aware of how deep the rabbit hole goes and how much money it takes to continue the descent.1 point
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Another question if I may. When you guys buy watch lots are you buying a mix of mechanical and quartz as well? Most of the job lots I am finding (all overseas) are a mix. If they are all mechanical, it is generally just movements with no cases. I am not at the point where I can identify movements by just viewing them so I'm not inclined to buy a bunch of stuff which will just end up lying around. Is anyone able to successfully move any of the watches they save on to someone else? I can't see a viable market in Australia for refurbished watches. Most people I have seen at work only have a watch if it counts their steps, answers their phone and makes the coffee. I'll admit it, I have a super cheap smartwatch on my wrist. Will I buy another one when it quits? Doubt it. I don't know if I would even bother with a pedometer. Heart rate? And do what with all the data? Blood pressure? Never been right since I got the watch. Sleep? If I can't work out that I'm not getting enough, I need to have a serious talk with myself. I think I'll go back to my Seiko and just make myself stay active.1 point
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Hi @Zendoc, I guess you're like me and you don't have a mainspring winder. I searched GR mainspring for the AS 1686 mainspring and I now understand your dilemma. The exact one is discontinued. To answer you question more directly, I see two good alternatives for you: a) GR4485 with 1.60 x .10 x 280 x 8.5 ( I guess this one is the one you found): https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/mainsprings-by-list-watch-pocket/GR4485 OR b) GR4477 with 1.60 x .095 x 320 x 9. https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/mainsprings-by-list-watch-pocket/gr4477 As you know, the the AS 1686 spring is supposed to be 1.60 x .10 x 300 x 9. - both of the above will fit and you'll manage to insert them from the retention ring without need for a mainspring winder (provided you know how to do it). - GR4485 will give you more power (=higher amplitude), but less power reserve (due to shorter length) than the original. - GR4477 will give you the same power reserve as the original. However, a bit less power. Personally, I'd take GR4477 for two reasons: 1. Well, the power reserve is better. 2. With modern lubricants and modern mainspring metal alloys, you tend to get a higher amplitude anyways. You'd maybe even end up with too much amplitude (knocking) if you go with the original size and use thin synthetic oils-- see discussion here: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/10580-omega-calt17-help/#comment-2481011 point
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Your setup is correct. The smallest diameter of one pulley must correspond with the largest of the other one, else not speed variation. Frank1 point
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I have one of those, you can get them from his web site.1 point
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3,804 I have has seen the number, but did not realise it was the number of 100% transactions.1 point
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Hi. Bit of a difference now, as OldHippy said as long as the belt is in line with the pulley it’s ok. With the reversing lever on the right end it keeps your fingers away from the pulley / belt area.1 point
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I sort of am expecting that ring to push against the rim of the crystal and possibly a seal against the front of the case. Hence everything comes out the back. Nothing else seems to make sense to me. I am trying to imagine why the crystal would not push out unless the ring needs to be backed off to allow the crystal to be pushed out, but then how does the ring come out? I am new to stripping watches though and am happy to stand corrected.1 point
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OK, I have created a solution to the above, I have made a fake protonmail account, if you PM me I can send you the password, just click on the contact link and enter your information, this should be as secure as it gets: Website: Link Login: email as highlighted in above screenshot WRTArk @ Proton. me Password: ..........PM me and I'll let you know Only intend to use the contacts function, not the email or anything else - we are all grown ups, please act responsibly.
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As a beginner, I’ve found this forum invaluable. I doubt I would’ve persevered without its support. I’ve had the confidence to attempt things that seemed to me impossible only because I knew there were patient and giving folks gathered around this watering hole, available to share their skill. I would very much like to know where to go if this one dries up and everyone needs to decamp. There’s something special about the folks gathered in this group. How to keep in touch?1 point
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We already have a Facebook group run by Mark , so this is a bit moot. Search for “Watch repair lessons” group. Tom1 point
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Sorry to jump in here guys, but I've read through this whole thread and it seems there are a lot of people who think joining Facebook means everyone will have access to their lives. You could make a Facebook account with a fake name. You could even use your real name if you wanted to and set it to completely private so people can't even find you in a search and you don't have to add anyone as a 'friend', so you won't see anyone's posts. Literally use it to join a group full of members of this site. Admins could even set the group to private and require a password of some sort to gain acceptance into the group, so you can be sure that it's only members of this site that get in. @tomh207 is right, the form with email addresses and names is a bad idea. That will be abused by scrapers. Facebook is only as personal as you let it be. You can be completely anonymous on there if you wish. Don't think of it as Facebook. Just think of it as a watch repair group as that's all you'd use the account for. It doesn't even have to be set up with your current email address. Make a random one on Gmail or any other free provider just for the Facebook account. Tagged you by accident and now it won't let me remove it @Neverenoughwatches1 point
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You are too far away. If can't find somebody to do the job closer and for reasonable price, then post the wheel and the bridge to me and I will do it.1 point
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Certainly looks like a ring that needs unscrewing in that photo. It definitely looks like a thread above the castellated ring as well. Separate to the caseback ring thread. It even looks to be a smaller diameter. I would expect that. Once undone out of its thread, it should fall out of the case. Would it be possible to make a tool shaped like a letter H with one side of the H engaging the castellations in the ring and the other side of the H for you to be able to unscrew it using your hand? Making a tool with 6 'legs' to pick up all of the castellations would be a labour of love.1 point
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Just come back form a 2 week holiday. Bride had a wonderful time. Day two. Full blown tooth ache which had been on/off for two flaming month. Ever tried to concentrate on making repairs when a tooth ache is attacking? Sorted today. Call me gummy! So glad to read Mark's posting, and to note the comments. The members who are active may be few, but we do have, and give access to a large community out there. Mark reigns. Some of the greatest names we see on the web give homage. Individuals and companies acknowledge Mark. So pleased to be part of the learning circle of WRT.1 point
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I can't tell whether or not some stem is stuck in the crown, I think so though. If the crown is stainless steel you could try alum to disolve the stem of try drilling it out. If all else fails, buy a new crown.1 point
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The K&D (Levin made the same style too, probably others as well) are a clever design and work well when you get used to them. The only issue is if you wind the spring so that the tongue goes in, there's a really good chance it slips futher and then comes out the next slot, usually breaking off. Best to size it so you can fit it in the barrel with the tongue sticking out.1 point
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That Mastercraft one is a really nice, versatile design!1 point
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I have to add my thanks to @Mark for all he does here and his other site. It was Marks YouTube channel which got me into the track of the possibilities of repairing my own watches and servicing them. If I can help out at all as a moderator I volunteer wholeheartedly. Tom1 point
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Well Gentlemen and Ladies I think we should thank @Mark for his posts putting our minds to rest and the explanation of running the site which is done very well. As a resource for watch repairs for new and old I would rate it second to none, the casual banter and dissemination of information top notch, let us ll enjoy working on here and helping others. Any one can PM me as Iam sure others as well if it has to off the “record” and Marks blessing on that. We appreciate that Mark is a busy man and totally appreciate what he does for us all. So from me THANK YOU MARK. from an old timer.1 point
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Screw down barrel, pendant tube?1 point
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It's a good point, we really love the forum and are scared of losing it. @Mark do you mind if we exchange contact details? What happens if you don't wake up in the morning? Hopefully not but @Neverenoughwatches is correct, who knows. Could the site be passed on to someone else? It would be a travesty to loose contact with each other and also so much information. Please note, the question arised because we care so much. We wish that you will live for ever but none of us will. Beat me too it.1 point
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As long as it’s legal and not spamming, information shared in private messaging between two consenting members is no concern of mine matey this isn’t eBay1 point
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Hi All, I started this forum over 10 years ago and never intended for it to me a 'for profit' concern. Since then, I launched an online course and I draw funds from that business in order to fund this website. There is also a little bit of funding from Google ads but I don't rely on it because they keep changing the goalposts. The forum costs a few hundred pounds per month to run and Im comfortably managing it. Why a few hundred pounds? I am OCD about backups and not relying on a single company to host those backups, I use amazon S3 to backup hourly and daily, I also use Digital Ocean. I use a separate mail service to handle the serious amounts of emails sent from the site, I am on here most days admin'ing and updating the site or servers/applying security patches and the like - its not a big deal, I enjoy it. In short - you might not see me a lot posting (for my sanity as it's addictive (same on all my social media)) but I certainly do a lot behind the scenes. I can't control my mortality and so there's always that - but other than that, I'm damn committed to this site as I am committed to my commercial site watchfix.com which supports this site. I have no interest in shutting down, selling or otherwise changing this sites format. Having said that, if anyone wants to consider taking on moderation tasks to help (in particular, making sure people post in the correct place and moderating new members posts) that would be very helpful. (Only members who have been active for more than a year please). Finally, thanks very much for your support and kind words - I truly appreciate that. This forum has to be one of the friendliest I am part of - a massive refreshment after reading some of the Facebook groups I'm part of - except mine FB group - that's also great with great people1 point
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My newest 404 candidate, a late '60's / early '70's Waltham with a UTC 33 / Seiko 6601 17 jewel automatic movement. It needed a new crystal and I put on a strap from my Strap Graveyard. The timegrapher was a snow storm before servicing but it cleaned up nicely. I really like the funky font used for the hour markers.
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I think we all get a lot out of this group, and it has been pivotal in my development by the sharing of knowledge, experience and learning from more seasoned experts such as @JohnR725 and others (you know who you are!) as well as fellow novices. I think that having a backup communication plan in reserve so that if there is a future problem just makes good sense. I don't think anyone is trying to undermine the forum, but if something unthinkable happens, like the Ranfft website for example, then it would be good if those who are willing can still keep in contact. Speaking personally, and I know I risk a charge of heresy, it would be good if Mark could be a little more visible in this forum, and maybe give any insight from time to time on the future/progress of forum and instructional videos etc. even if its just to confirm the status quo. I appreciate he is a busy man with a full time job, but so are most of the rest of us and to post a few lines every now and then shouldn't be too much to ask to reassure the restless villagers. Best outcome for me would be a message saying something along the lines of: "Hi guys, all good, no planned changes... enjoy the forum, will message again next month!" Just my two cents.1 point
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No John, we don't want Mark to change anything, we are just scared of losing a brilliant forum and losing contact with each other. As pointed out, this forum is full of knowledge and I for one, consider the regulars friends. I would hate to lose contact with you and the others. PS, this forum is really important to me.1 point
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Fully understood OH, not to sound negative in any way but life has a great way of screwing things up.1 point
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Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely.1 point
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Miyota Calibre 9015 Assembly
1 point
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