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Did you notice in your technical documentation of 1970 it mentions this newfangled epilam stuff? One of the unfortunate problems of technical documentation is it does not magically update itself to the newest version and if it did it would disappear because it's restricted to Swatch group people only. Then there is the other problem of supplemental documentation. For instance in the late 50s in their lubrication guide they talk about epilam and practically everything in the watch. Then in the ever-changing thoughts of the day go to orally epilam adding the escapement components. But in the newest generation of stuff because epilam is less volatile solvents is more stable at room temperature they've gone back to epilam ing of the entire watch. It's actually in the last jar the cleaning machine with only a couple of things come out. Then we're back to a Problem of time again. Yes the reverser can come apart but ideally not to destroy it you would need the special tool which you do not have. A very long time ago I worked in a shop that was Omega authorized that I was looking forward to even seeing the special tool and he didn't have it. But yes it can come apart and you really don't want to do it. I'm attaching a working instruction which came from cousins hence notice on the corners we see where it came from. If you look on page 19 they cover lubrication of the reverser wheels. Even if and I can't remember which one one of the technical documents I have actually shows the tools explains it can be disassembled and then basically says just dip it in the whatever and be done with it and don't disassembled. 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication cousins.pdf

Couldn't agree more. I haven't been here long but what I've seen and the help I've received has been brilliant. I believe Swiss meant IMHO. In My Honest Opinion

This is the clock I was talking about.

There is a section in this Citizen technical manual that gives a breakdown of the number on the case back, plus a lot more useful info: https://www.plus9time.com/blog/2021/10/3/citizen-technical-information-manual-mid-1970s?rq=Citizen technical

Thanks guys, you are spot on correct - the notch is minuscule & I could only see it with magnification. It's so small I had to use a sharp knife tip rather than a case knife. Oddly enough, it's at the end of one of the clusters of scratches! I was slightly concerned when I took the strap off and saw "Hong Kong" stamped on the edge of the case - but's it's all OK. I now [hopefully] have two good N510 movements, this sub second and one I posted previously with centre seconds; and both have rather tatty cases. The other is a somewhat similar that was once chrome & I was considering trying to nickel plate that, but in the meantime saw a listing for a supposedly NOS Gruen 510 case. I got that as well, it's the one on the left below. "Vacuum" marked, octagonal recess screw back printed Gruen Guild, with a machined movement ring. I suspect it needs a special dial to suit, as the internal diameter is somewhat smaller than either of the dials on the movements I have (~28.3mm). .... I got distracted/carried away and stripped the movement before I posted the above part! It all looks good, the only point with any visible wear is under the crown wheel edge. There is a tiny nick on an edge of the train bridge, but other wise excellent.

This vid was a bit of a surprise to me, showing the difference in quality between Horia and Bergeon jewelling tools. For those who worship Bergeon, I suggest you don't watch it

I dont have any personal friends who are watch nerds so I have to share my joy with y'all If you saw my other thread I had bought a Elgin Sportsman to start learning on after getting fairly proficient with my practice movement. I ended up stripping out some threads in the main plate and abandoning that project. I was able to clean it and get it running again so I learned a ton. Next up, a Gruen Precision that I got off ebay. This project took forever and after realizing the balance was no good and buying a donor movement I was able to get it back in working order. I dont have a time grapher yet but I've been wearing it for 2 days and its keeping pretty dang good time! - Disassembled, cleaned and reassembled / lubed the entire movement. - Pressed in a new crystal - Replaced the strap - Replaced the crown (the old crown was just destroyed) One thing that really killed me was that I scratched the dial with my hand levers. I was just rushing because I was frustrated (had to take the hands off a few extra times because they weren't flat) lesson learned. Next up is a Seiko that I also got on ebay. This will be my first automatic, and my first date complication. Super excited and so glad I found this hobby!

I've grown very fond of my Longines 30L. Nice and simple, elegant, and very accurate. But if I had to choose one, it would be one of the pocket watches I first started working on. And this is is my favourite : a 16s Waltham Riverside (Model 1899) made in 1903. 19 jewels, Breguet overcoil, and adjusted to 5 positions. The centre wheel is rose gold plated. The damaskeening and perlage are stunning (and very difficult to photograph, the pic doesn't do it justice). When I last cleaned it, I wore it for a week (on an Albert chain of course). It was amazingly accurate, about 1s to 2s /day as I remember. Not bad for a 120 year old watch (and me as a learner).

OK, I fixed it. There was a combination of factors. First I bent the wings on the small, star like, battery contact to be a bit more erect and give a better contact. This is located within a thin plastic sheet that is snapped into place in a groove between the bridge and the main plate. Underneath this was the "switch" contact with a plastic end that moves with the yoke that turns the movement on and off. This had all got a bit displaced and was not moving with the yoke, so I carefully refitted the star contact and its plastic sheet and making sure that I could see the switch contact making good connection (you can see through a small hole on the dial side). Refitted the battery and off it went! The switch works fine to turn it off / hack the seconds but there is always a momentary pause, I guess as the magnetic field builds up when you start it up again. I am going to let it run for a bit and then regulate it. It appears to be running 30 sec per day fast at the moment.

I think the case turned out pretty nice in the end. Just thought I'd share a photograph:

I've downloaded it from the link! Looks like a really handy manual. However it doesn't help with sizing the case back seal. It does tell me it's a flat seal which is good! I think I'll go for an assorted pack from cousins and see how it goes!

Good afternoon. More than once I've damaged balance staffs because tight steady pins necessitating force to get the balance cock in place. I assume the steady pins get slightly deformed over the years by over enthusiastic balance cock removal. So now I take the lesser evil of using a smoothing broach on the steady pin holes so I get the feel and control back when fitting the cock. Is this the best option or am I missing a trick? Thanks all.

I found on the part list for the Miyota 8N24 that the part I bent is likely called an "hour wheel guard" and that on the Miyota skeletonized movement it has 3 screws as opposed to the one on the 2650 which makes sense to me

Yes, You can broach the holes but just a little, not to make the cock or bridge wobble

Measure the thickness or buy the selection.

It's more of a observation of? Or perhaps it's one of my amusements with the message board for instance in the past you might post a lubrication question something specific. Then it would disappear a particular moderator would move it to lubrication discussion of lubrication multiple pages where it basically disappeared never be seen again. Even right now if you look at the way the board is set up things are supposed to be a specific folders. So if you rigidly followed the way the message board is set up one watch would get scattered across many folders as it would fall into a whole bunch a categories of each of the folders. But maybe we can slip by with one watch discussion that just happens to have a whole bunch of stuff that should be another folders if the moderator so obsessed. As I'm currently looking for something else I've snipped out an image for you. Parts list dated 1969. You'll note mainspring barrel components like the barrel and the arbor and there is the mainspring and part 7221 the slip part of the mainspring. Then I found you a newer parts list 2013 and you will note the slip ring is now gone. Although one of the disturbing things from Omega is when parts are upgraded part numbers do not necessarily reflect the upgrade. So for instance if you go back in time and purchase the exact mainspring in the image up above you would need the slip ring also in the parts list. But if you purchased the exact mainspring in the PDF I'm attaching it's one spring unfortunately same part number. Then we have the problem of silly material houses like cousins obsessed with parts and not servicing. So when there are busy downloading that 2013 parts list a could've been downloading something titled General information for Calibre 1000, 1001 and 1002. Did you notice how all the pages of the 2013 parts list every single corner has somebody's name and contact information? This means if for instance somebody did have that general instruction And it came from someplace else they would have to carefully remove wherever it came from just because. 416_Omega 1001 NewLR parts list 2013 from cousins.pdf

Haha, posting at the same time.

I just finished servicing this exact watch, and it is definitely a pry off. The divot for your case knife is hard to find, but it's definitely there. Look under good light with strong magnification. The movement will most likely stay in the caseback, as it's kind of a tub. Let me look around and see if I have better pictures of the caseback for you. No luck on better photos. If you're still stuck later, I can take pictures when I get home. Good luck!

I don't know but I suspect it's a snap back, nothing to get a grip on for a screwed back. Try the nut method, if it's not a screwed back, it won't do any damage and you could insert a bolt and pull on that.

This is my watchmaking motto. Thanks for your input as always, John.

I use one of those rubber type abrasive sticks that fit in a pen holder. Just rub it round the post to avoid damaging anything if cleaning the hole. Can also use in the holes if it fits.

What is the watch? It's hard to help if we don't know what the watch is. If that was the original seal, yes. Don't know unless you can provide pics. Yes they do. Have a look here https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/watch-gaskets Possibly, but we would need to know what the watch is to help.

Imo yes. I do it the same way. Frank

Hi, this is steel 'gun metal' case, so it is not a problem to grind the back and polish it, then give the case to someone who will be able to make it blackened (oxidated) again. This is a chemical process where usually the seel is boiled in NaOH at 150-60 degr celsius for several hours. The movement is not a problem to repair, but it is a 7 jewels movement, so check the bearing holes for oval wear that must be restored. Yes, the second hand pivot has been bent and somebody has heat the entire pinion of the wheel, thus tempering it to be able to straighten the pivot without breaking it. Heating the entire pinion is a mistake, bit what is done is done. Check if the table of the wheel has gone soft as result of the heating, and if it needs truing. You will need to burnish the both pivots of the wheel and restore the bearings (and bring them to the correct places, as they can be shifted - signs of hole closing are seen on the bridge) to restore the normal function of the train.

I'd think it's worth trying to re-firt the spring in the barrel by hand; it's it otherwise going to be replaced you have nothing to loose! I've managed it a couple of times, where I have not had a suitable winder.

well after some research I have found out that this is a non serviceable part, because of the flared design, you have to buy the whole barrel complete.

You got it John, but i can think of other worse scenarios that may sway a decision. I know people that have sold things when they were broke and then regretted it in the future and wished they had found a way around it. Everybody has different sentimental attitudes, different thresholds, limits to what makes them capable of doing something. An example is my cousin who is not at all sentimental and parted with my grandfather's watch which he gave to me via my mum. But yes that comment you made is the basic idea, just a timepiece that you value the most, and you are least likely to part with. I'm not a pocket watch fan just yet Mike but that is gorgeous both inside and out and the fact that it was there at the start of your journey and proves testament to your dedication, skill and found forte makes it extra special. These are the ones that can be passed down the family line placed in the hands of someone that will continue to cherish it. Beautiful timepiece

So in other words if you basically ran out of money and you discovered that your beautiful Rolex watch was worth way more than you ever imagined you wouldn't sell the watch?

Thank you for this very practical advice @Jon on what to do and what not to be tempted to do. When you learn something you always make mistakes but with solid advice from someone with experience, mistakes can often be minimised. Very valuable and appreciated!

It's always interesting with the watch companies is how the technical documentation changes with time. So while at one time Omega what I have a documentation specific to your watch later on they don't they just consolidate common things into one technical documents. Where conveniently skip over a whole bunch of other stuff then In any case you are asking about cannon pinion For the third whale this is what they have how to remove it. The important note on lubrication or not to lubricated and that looks like a staking set punched push it on? Don't see any reference to supporting it on the back side There is no a reference to movement holder for fitting the hands.

Clone doesn't always exactly mean the exact copy. I have a couple links below which talk about the movement notice that also has a variety of number variations but basically they're all the same watch even if they look different. Then minor little technical difference they're not actually a clone of a 6497 because that runs in 18,000 beats per hour it's a clone of a 6497–2 Which runs at 21,600. https://calibercorner.com/seagull-caliber-st3600k/ https://seagull1963.com/st36/discovering-the-seagull-st36-movement/ https://calibercorner.com/eta-unitas-caliber-6497-1-vs-6497-2/

In this case, definitely not an expert but comparing the case and the movement?, it looks correct.

INHO. This is am amazing place with a bunch of amazing people. Thank you all!

OK thank you a just want say thank you to everyone who replieded me on this web page when I needed help on this watchrepairtalk have learned so much even with the pallet adjustment a can do it now all thanks to you all been a very great help God bless you all.

Yes, Mine has a support for the blade that can be safely hit like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-62841-Tradesman-Knife/dp/B0044D9MC6/ref=sr_1_37?crid=3HWJF1HL4J8D7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.X58oai8WcFho_-XqfR-lLQbU8lQKhf1vtFKAWbXR4EAhqVWR_eMy5h1DhaCULvkpA6XT0GaNFLHt_kJ0kPrhXFo0nYd8yJ4JgruoXDG9XjViAQOyAiBUkOhC9W9qQfGr0SMKpxIUrGOBkTjtTPTuM9IOTnb-dEAzbcZVvniVcEuMFGK9SITyDO6ryUU8ERkHt8f2Vy9Ks0QFO06KSJz65C2p7S3o2lOaUoO9kw61KyNtaaYYwdZzyuM2uRywODaigUn0u8RHMPR0dOa3WSrq8vE1iV5Et_561SFfvkhSGTQ.9QrdWVoCJpLVkrflNS1sxaY56ys4iiJspEFpUgLIRdg&dib_tag=se&keywords=stanley+knife&qid=1716289527&sprefix=stanley+knife%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-37 I use a brass hammer. You could use a very light pin hammer. A watchmaker's hammer would be a bit too light to use. I'm not sure of the weight, but looking at Cousins, it looks like a 60 or 84g brass hammer. I would go with the 84g one. A lot of the process is about feel, so you don't damage the case or bezel. Don't twist the tool! You may think it would make it easier and quicker, but that's when the damage starts to happen and be especially careful around the lugs. Once you have done a couple, you'll get a feel of it. Some bezels feel like they're not coming off and you start to doubt what you are doing. The trick is to be deliberate in your actions, rather than tentative. If you perform this task with the total belief that the bezel is coming off, that is exactly what will happen. First, be totally sure that the bezel comes off in the way you expect. Rub the blade against a piece of 400 grit wet and dry until blunt

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. Gabriel clocks are my thing.

Welcome Gabriel,enjoy the forum.

This chart is from the book „Die Feinstellung der Uhren“ by author Helwig. Has nothing to do with frequency but shows theoretical correct shapes. Frank

Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.

OK Rich, may be You are just a little bit more worried than really needed. Who am I to say, jus a newbie here but... Such a big forum will not collapse in any case, exept if the people loose their interest to participate. If something happens to the owner, then senior members will be able to handle the forum. Let me show an example where one of the moderators of the russian forum (thow He was not russian), a man of great knowlage abd big heart, passed away in 2023. Thow His personal site is still working, the russians coppied the whole site to safe place here. I mean, all depends on the people and if they need to do something, they will find the way. Actually, the forum is place where people can meet and share. As a final measure, people can share their phone numbers and use Viber to comunicate, at least people who are interested to keep connection between each other.

Nothing special to the horological world, but this is my travel watch. For whatever reason, this watch has accompanied me through airport security more often than my appendix and gall bladder. I feel as if i need this with me as much as my passport.

Yes, Swatch, booooooooooo!!!

My Omega Seamaster aqua terra. It's just me, very understated but classy ( not that I'm classy). I don't like dive watches, the bezel puts me off or any kind of bling. I prefer indices to numbers. I don't have any other luxuries, not into clothes, seldom go for expensive meals etc. So it's my little treat to myself. Not my watch but exactly the same, just got home and taken it off.

Haha yes Rich, my back garden Lol Fuertaventura mate. Wellll what else would you read while on holiday

The polishing worked out well. It only needed a bit of satin brushing on the sides and mirror polishing of the case back. The reason I got this watch (in dire need of a service) was because @nickelsilver spoke well of Peseux. Now this movement (Peseux 7040) probably wasn't their top-of-the-line but still performs very well after a service. No repairs (except replacing the scratched-up case and case back crystals) or adjustments were required so easy to work on. Here are the numbers. Fully wound minus 1 hour: Dial up: Rate: +5 s/d, Amp.: 310°, B.E.: 0.1ms Dial down: Rate: +3 s/d, Amp.: 305°, B.E.: 0.1ms Crown left: Rate: -1 s/d, Amp.: 260°, B.E.: 0.1ms Crown down: Rate: +8 s/d, Amp.: 265°, B.E.: 0.1ms Crown right: Rate: -5 s/d, Amp.: 275°, B.E.: 0.0ms Crown up: Rate: -12 s/d, Amp.: 265°, B.E.: 0.1ms Fully wound minus 26 hours: Dial up: Rate: +4 s/d, Amp.: 265°, B.E.: 0.0ms Dial down: Rate: 0 s/d, Amp.: 270°, B.E.: 0.0ms Crown left: Rate: -6 s/d, Amp.: 240°, B.E.: 0.1ms Crown down: Rate: +2 s/d, Amp.: 225°, B.E.: 0.2ms Crown right: Rate: -3 s/d, Amp.: 223°, B.E.: 0.0ms Crown up: Rate: -12 s/d, Amp.: 223°, B.E.: 0.1ms