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Who is Elmer??

Lovely machine. May hammer the dent out and do a restore. Spins in a single direction and has a heater. Super stoked to get it and a bunch of other watchmaker tools In The deal.

One more note, a hint from pro to "pro": With such a dented pivot there are other tasks to do than poising. Maybe this pivot is the real reason of an astonishing high poise error of a Rolex.

Please replace "a professional" by "this person". What he doesn't know or doesn't tell: often you can find a slight out-of-poise on the poising tool that is intentional. Why? Because you do not take into account the influence of the hairspring then. His luck is that he has a balance with Breguet hairspring, that is poised itself. Else his method would work more poorly. My poising tool stays in the drawer and is used for coarse adjustments only - I use dynamic poising. No more dangerous removing and mounting of the hairspring. Additional I use PCTM instead of pen and paper: it tells automatically magnitude and exact location of the heavy point. And I do not have to remember all the rules of dynamic poising then. Frank

For some reason I like to collect these! They are not so friendly to repair and parts are like hens teeth. Getting one back to running order is very satisfying!

This is one I've had for a while, 1020 movement, bought with a setting fault - but it was running and setting fine after a service. Until the second hand fell off! I initially thought I'd not fitted it properly so re-fitted it - and it fell off again within a few hours. I then realised after looking at parts on ebay that it should have a bush or sleeve and the one I had was missing that. Since then I've been hunting for parts, then getting around to re-doing it as it's probably the most valuable one I have and I'm still nervous with anything that has difficult-to-get or expensive parts. It was also missing the hack, which originally I was not bothered about as the plastic part seemed rather dodgy, and the date ring print looked worn. I got a date ring, hands and found there was an alternate metal hack so got that too. The hack is perfect, hands great - but I'm not sure of the date ring? It fits the movement, but is thicker that the one that was in it and looked like it may scuff or jam on the back of the dial? I've left the original one in for now; that does have some clearance behind the dial but I'm not sure if it is enough, or if there should be a dial spacer that I do not have? See the photo. I do suspect it has been got-at to some extent in the past, as the hands that were on it look slightly tarnished and the seconds hand is a slightly different length to the one in the new set. There is a slight mark on the dial around the 9 o'clock index; I have no idea what that is but I don't like messing with dials in case I make things worse. Whether or not the date ring is correct, it looks nice and runs well, definitely a good smart wearable watch!

Can't you just move the lever?

Elmer Fudd , he shoots wabbits.

Looks like an old imperial measurement dial indicator of some description, fine measurement watchwork is in mm, the effort to convert each time would not make it worth it for me regardless of price.

Someone else may have a better idea but it looks more like a dial indicator than a micrometer. Would be useful for lathe work. Tom

Yep H that is exactly it, to protect the finish of the of the hand while it is face down on a steel block. You could stick a toothpick in a piece of wood instead of the stake block but personally i would still thread a piece of paper over the end . By flat lap i mean the flat diamaond plates , i keep using the names interchangeably but the two are different. I've not had to reduce the height of an hour hand tube before , but I've used similar ideas for doing other things Clamping the hour hand by the arm seems like a good way of breaking off the head when filing. A more simple way would be to shave the tube down on a stone or plate by rubbing it with your finger, might not get it straight though. I think you should post a picture first before trying anything.

I restore torsion clocks and have an YouTube channel and thought it may be helpful to anyone restoring one of my videos as most manufacturers clocks are similar.

Come on way2 play the game fella " you get some tools so follow the rules, post em up so we all get a good look " . Ok it doesn't quite rhyme butbits the best i can do at short notice and 4 in the morning.

A worrhy piece of information and approach for combining work and marriage Karl. My mother used to tell me how to determine if you had found the right woman " wallpaper a room together before commitment and if you can manage to do it successfully in short time and without argument then she's the one " . Maybe i should have listened, when me and my missus do it, we need to buy extra rolls, it takes us ages and then we dont talk for days afterwards . Get those keyless parts laid out so we can all have a skeg.

not a lot of information on this watch unfortunately. Best fit only list three entries. the next one is ruled out because of the shape

There is a little difference in keyless works, but I believe this is the caliber, or at list the manufacturer

In addition you will need a c to cs adapter which is just a 5mm ring to bring the camera at the right distance. The camera I have is a Hayear camera I got from AliExpress. It does the job but I find the usage a bit clunky. But I don’t know if others are better

Remove the cannon pinion, Murks! The winding movement is in hands setting mode and thus it blocks the train.

I have acquired a number of watches over the years and generally have always changed batteries myself. This seems to be getting more difficult, manufacturers now like make this more difficult, restricting information. making cases very difficult to open etc. They of course want you to use their own service centres at a cost of £60+ each time. Therefore, I find myself getting into simple watch repair to keep some of my older watches going.

@Neverenoughwatches it would be worth flying down to South Africa and bringing them back for us. I’ll chip in Tom

Yes, this numbers does not matter. As I remember, the platform type is X3 and any of them will fit

Nope. These are the prices, he gave me as first dibs before he decides to put them online. He says if I don't like them, I can try Gumtree ads. So I am not sure which one to choose. They don't have baskets at all...

4-82 means: 1982, 4th (last) quarter of the year. 1-76 means first quarter of 1976.

just take your time and use the finest file you have , the tube will be very thin , the timber toothpick inside it will help to give it stability. Just a snug fit so as not to split the tube, watchmaking is about just the right size. Making yourself a micro diamond file from a diamond plate is well worth the effort.

Lapping plates are precision ground metal, glass and even timber disks or plates, abrasive compounds are added to impregnate and charge up the lap ready for flat lapping and polishing metal parts. Diamond plates are sometimes called lapping plates hence my mention of the term. Any quality small fine file should be ok, something like this from cousins.

This is one I had and it was an excellent machine and it is automatic. In the first jar as you look at it on the left you can see a small device in the jar that is the ultrasonic. This is the machine I had before the L&R Variamatic Watch Cleaning Machine. When it comes to cleaning there is hardly any difference between the two. Just make sure the baskets in the photo fit that machine as I can't remember what mine were like.

Found this video on YouTube. This is how a professional poises a balance wheel to a very high degree of accuracy. Most large variations when regulating a watch in different positions is normally caused by the hairspring or the poise of the balance wheel.

The amplitudes were different for each poise check . One low and one high, granted both equally either side of 220 ° . 57 ° below and 64° above. I wonder if that was pure luck ?

I think @tomh207is correct, plus it measures in inches, mm is far more useful.

Elmer Fudd from Bugs Bunny?

I'm not sure, but I imagine that you simply thread the paper onto the toothpick so that it rests against the block. Then thread the hand (back side up) onto the toothpick so that it rests against and is protected by the paper. I don't know if this is an established method but it sounds like it's worth a try. I don't know if my description is understandable or correct but if not so, please correct me! What is a "flat lap"?

I've been getting boxes to store the tools I already have. The Chinese jewel press came without any kind of box or case, so I started looking for something to suit that and ended up with some to take the bigger tools like the old open frame clock & pocketwatch mainspring winders & small winder kit, Jacot tool case etc. Old or antique wooden boxes can be cheaper than modern plastic stuff on ebay, and I prefer wood for these old or delicate tools. So, I ended up with three boxes: This one is just a bit wider and around the same height as my Boley staking set box, and will fit the jewel press with it bit sets, plus the Rex roller remover set: These two are rather larger, 14" & 16" wide, just basic plywood with corner bracing: They have all been abused, misused and bodged over the years! The smaller one turned out to be an antique travel writing slope! The original hinges and lock have gone & the tray appears to have been put together with bits of the writing surface, plus the original red & green baize being cut up and stuck in fragments in the base and on the underside. Sad. I've managed to find some hinges similar to the originals & a lock that may fit, plus ordered some felt and baize for the underside and linings. The outer surface is quite good, just needing a clean and polish. It started out nearer like this, another generally similar one on ebay that's not quite so far gone: The larger ones are just plain boxes; the latches and handle fittings are rusted but nothing special and easy to replace, plus some cracked corner joints. The worst butchery was at the back edge of the lid on the medium size one - someone had nailed it with carpet tacks! After removing those and re-gluing the back, all the nail holes are visible with glue showing in some of them. I'm often amazed at the levels of bodgery on some things. This has also had an initial clean up, with white vinegar and a melamine sponge - it's several shades lighter now, than when it arrived. Once the structural repairs are done & minor defects patched up, I will give them a refinish with shellac, if that seems compatible with the original varnish.

Noticed this, hidden in the lot is what looks like a Robour press die set in good condition and a staking set (stakes only) which look OK: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296501059196?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bZu54oBPTK-&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=WLDexrgWSNe&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yep, I think @Neverenoughwatches nailed it. Girard Perregaux & Cie [...and company]. One of my favorite makers. Constantin Girard and Marie Perregaux were a husband and wife team! Because I work alongside my wife at my day job, and have for many years, I understand the attraction and admire them.

You do realise that the +ve contact is supposed to press against the side of the battery and not sit on top of it. The battery should be a 319 not 379 so 2.7mm thick not 2.1mm thick which is why the contact isn't sitting correctly.

Hi @nevenbekriev, thanks for having such a close look. But it's actually all how it's supposed to be. It may be an optical illusion. These a 2/3 circle brass bushing on the lever itself and a full jewel on the plate below. The pic from the manual will clarify:

Hi @nevenbekriev, I'm thinking of replacing the whole platform. Mine is marked 4-82. The seller has 4-69, 4-71 and 4-72. Will any of them fit my clock? The white powder was not visible at first. It only appeared after I did a preclean in 95% denatured alcohol.

What you are showing most of it is missing. Just looked on ebay this is the best machine I ever had. I have had a few machines in my time. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285902116112?itmmeta=01J0EW3685DS3DXFT0YK1M6CRW&hash=item4291181510:g:eRgAAOSwKBpmZsMW&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0KMFnc%2BwDg6kFufauQZxMmo%2FXMOZUb8B8ZtxalJPVcGZYl0sjSXjgIHEyZ0dvGY57wsEJupTrvZkGyRH5A8KGf8GYSzSXE1F8VMaR5oJYP%2FgVmvU5QSidrbXULj3h1iqvptGXGVfko2HM%2BWKK5XSOE9Ek1FPwkVOi9p%2FbmX7FAp7Cr0GbUjAovPOI1QZdyc7ChZLNJiGQAsjfz4FzJAz8mvLKL2xwXGtbmhYf4l0BU7gQRLQ%2BHfKogEt5AO3xlR2F6fZxjNi5iB3W4RY7n7HniE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5bkjNyDZA There is also this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176424434347?itmmeta=01J0EW3685CBSTMC6HZCD24VJA&hash=item2913b73aab:g:WcIAAOSwm-ZmS3vn&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0G7k%2FSuYiX%2Fhn1xO9kSpOZnqO525%2FC29sG7K0LRkRyzClvecttiEGFWe4ZOrXR42I6LCP9RSWPjnOdr3wzuhofuIAI%2FUhHq2VwPDTLpy5M%2FATDlCvUueqPlNL9%2FXBOJx8HpxavHbrw%2Bz3%2FW9YOil2nq5U%2BRfu10yBilLrFeJeCi8kZL6gcrIOnReTuh1tO%2F4XG0uVDr0Y9Vze27CMKpR2cb8I%2Fqyt%2FHVXS2tMu7x%2FJTfOTzw85wzUpt5WeVLCcV7MKpGytwVesyPs9t4g05KWLk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5LkjNyDZA Another https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196429850292?itmmeta=01J0EW3686SKPN1WSF129KR20N&hash=item2dbc21a6b4:g:~7kAAOSw41pmYXfG&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8Cj5grIbnKC5SFi%2B0%2B83GgokdKXHur9QvJ%2FKnte%2FDar5L9PoB%2BFs%2BcOti9BkDgCd7r9vBSG%2BINHCtprmUtKJC%2BA%2BPKBEQbgYVt3mp3VVi%2Bk4sX6%2BlrwoSZD5wW8btH8YRQbvBTo1y%2BfAZWhBN7dBbOncVlsDPeIQnxhoX27onRA0cOkqJwaB95xhK9lIUZ1qHeMb8J58cmLfmy4dt7HuQOMQ%2BIJCz9Yd96Kw1SyprG90yB2wCUd4dshpzK0z1cSX7dvHPy7ZTn1GJL2Zs%2B1j630ZPwEeSwTsxDtKUuLTyPx20SE37XD%2Fllg2llakO7AH7g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5jkjNyDZA More https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176410156286?itmmeta=01J0EW3686RHQ5CNHDSSZ17QW0&hash=item2912dd5cfe:g:nJIAAOSwnztmYEVF&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0I56oof2IHqmGAwUUoqpoIM971obYtQeElg%2B7X8PL9CG7PXDtCKgovcgq7uu5OcLTmZRDSf3qiSuZUxZKafLo08I4OHEYDa3uMi4jKcAYZJq2M3kDK3utnODNLx9VN0swZqGi7KVdVzrAMV7V4UCF7eUBpAYJizdbSyxbnCgnAStxQEdBuBroTbPzj6%2B79HetBmFknueT9%2BfLRePi6y0LMN0VsDG3yEstvRHKW%2BlC5LNWgWnweQwAy8qDPKW9lfFRnI%2FDzLbLI3yCPT3NClmGYQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5jkjNyDZA Make sure it comes with the jars and basket. Members on here have restored some dilapidated machines and the look like new.

Hi Rich, I doubt that it is epilame, as USSR watchmakers (those who repaired watches) usually newer heard of such thing existing. It is not for sure powder from worn stone, Rather something that the movement was exposed when the cover was open.

So there are a few variants of the Horia clone. That’s why I’d like to know the dimensions of the Bergeon 31001 - I need a version that will accept whatever the dimensions of the Bergeon pieces are. I’ll email Cousins on Monday and ask them, unless Malocchio is able to measure his set for me. Then I’ll search for a clone to fit. @Waggy _ I can well imagine it takes some practice. Likely I’ll wreck a few along the way. I’ll push a smoothing broach along the pipe and see if that limits the damage.

I hope you're not suggesting Windows 7 is old? The last time I upgraded my computer by building a new one I put in Windows 7 64 bit and hopefully the computer will last forever because I really don't want to upgrade the computer ever again. When you're young it's fun building computers every couple years upgrading Windows and at some point time you're tired of Windows upgrades. so this computer is running Windows 7 64 bit. All the other miscellaneous computers running Windows 8.1. Then unfortunately I ran into an application absolutely had to have either 10 or 11 so for that I purchased a laptop off of eBay there quite inexpensive just to have Windows 10. So this way the laptop can be out of sight and I don't have to deal with Windows 10 as I'm not a big fan and don't even get me started on Windows 11 which I don't think would run on any of the machines I have any way.

Quite a powerful P C you now have. I'm still running Windows 7 64bit. I hate windows 10 it's a hog.

Oldest i have is 1931 Which is when modern pinball started. Ive picked them up all over in the US and had them shipped over from the UK as well. I like projects so im normally in the 200-800 US dollar range when i buy, After repair and restoration they are worth anywhere up to 20k or more. In the above pics the pricing is 1932 JuggleBall 1200$ 1934 Worlds Series 3500$ (This game was sent to england with a Amusement park theme as Pleasure Island as Rockola didnt think that american baseball would go over well) 1933 Jigsaw $4000 Heres an example of the mech under the worlds series. The rachet get pushed back when you load a ball. The spring holds the tension and the actuator in home plate releases the wheel to spin against the second gear to spin the bases. The Star gear determines if the wheel will spin for a single double triple or homerun.

I've been experimenting with MAF (mass airflow) cleaner for hairsprings and pallet forks. For those who aren't familiar with MAF cleaner its for cleaning the very fine wires in the MAF sensor in your engine that measures airflow to determine injector duration etc etc. Claims its safe around plastics and leaves no reside. Just a quick spray in a small bowl and a blow with the puffer in solution to agitate then out and dried. You can literally see the dirt particles coming of the part as you spray it. As yet it has had not effects of the shellac although its only in there for 15 secs. Cleans really well and doesn't leave the hairspring sticking together. Probably contradicting myself here, but I wouldn't try it on a Rolex Regards CJ

I too have had a problem with residue from B-dip on hair springs. I bought a bottle of expensive B-dip and put mabe a 1/3rd of it into a separate (clean!) jar and have been using it to clean pallet forks, balance and end stones. I am not sure when the problem started but I definitely have seen (at around 22x mag) a residue on a balance cock and had hairspring coils sticking together. I don't know if my B-dip has become contaminated but it looks clean and I have only been putting a select few dry components in there. To remove the residue I gave it a good rinse in naphtha (lighter fluid) and then a quick swish in IPA followed by some puffs from a blower to quickly evaporate the IPA before it damages the shellac. This procedure has worked really well and I have had good results (better than naphtha alone)

I totally agree with @Mercurial's points on starting with a known-running watch, and the ST36 being larger and easier to service. That said, my first repair was an Elgin 345, which taught me an awful lot about non-interchangeable parts. My next one was a very similar Caravelle, and I have to say I really love those Bulova movements and have done many since. They are very nice to work on, and as you noted parts are readily available. For the most part you can get away with the phone camera's zoom, especially for assembly/disassembly pictures. One piece of hard-learned advice: take more than you think you need. Unless I know for a fact that screws are the same, I keep them segregated with the parts they were holding on. Right up until I bump my parts tray and mix them all up, at least. You can see here how the automatic works are in one compartment, the train bridge in another, keyless works in another. I like to keep the balance and pallet fork in the center with their associated screws--I clean them separately and want to make sure they're kept safely away from other parts. I heard a great phrase on someone's Youtube video that stuck with me: "good screw discipline." Yes, definitely a 4x or 5x loupe. With a 10x you get much shorter working distance (you have to be around 1" from the work) and shallower depth of field. I know it's a little spendy, but a stereo microscope is hands-down the best purchase I've made. Honestly if I had only loupes to work with I might not have stuck with the hobby. It's such a pleasure for my rapidly aging eyes and back. I've even figured out how to tilt it so I can use it to install hands and work with my staking set. Having both eyes also helps with depth perception. Hope that helps, and good luck!

Whilst you could go ahead and use the 11DP movement, the ST36 has the advantage of being larger and therefore easier to work on. It will also be running quite well when it arrives, so you know any decrease in performance after you’ve serviced it is down to you. If you do a great job servicing it, the ST36 will be running even better than it did initially. If the 11DP doesn’t run well after you service it, it’s hard for a beginner to know if this is due to issues with the movement or their technique. The iPhone I have (iPhone 13) is more than adequate to capture clear, detailed images of watch parts and would be fine for keeping a visual record of the disassembly. If your iPhone is not up to the task, consider looking at the cheaper digital microscopes from China. They have an LCD screen to show the field of view and can capture still images and some capture video too. There is a slight lag between the workpiece and the image on the screen, which makes them unsuitable as a microscope to work through, but for inspection purposes and capturing step by step images of the disassembly they will work well. In terms of keeping parts and screws sorted, I suggest a plastic storage box with lots of small compartments. Some fishing tackle boxes would be suitable. Once you’ve removed for example the balance cock, put the screw that held it down into the neighboring compartment. For the other bridges and cocks, put each in a separate compartment along with the screws that belong with it. I suggested a separate compartment for the balance cock screw because you want to keep all loose parts away from the hairspring. Put the ratchet wheel and its screw in a compartment, the crown wheel and screw in another compartment and so on. Pallet fork cock/bridge and screw(s) in another compartment etc. You can even put a bit of paper with a description of the part into each compartment. You can also write on the compartment or lid with a marker and (usually) remove the writing afterwards with an alcohol swab. As you gain experience you’ll find you get more comfortable grouping more parts together in a single compartment without losing track of where they go. Another alternative is to make a screw holder for the movement from a disk of wood or metal. You need one for each side of the movement. Sketch out the movement bridges and screw locations on the disk and drill a small hole in each location. Place each screw into its corresponding hole as you remove it from the movement. These screw holders were sold by watch material houses in the past and do turn up on eBay from time to time. Until you are ready to make the step up to a stereomicroscope, should you eventually choose to, a 5x, 10x and 20x loupe should be enough. Good lighting is also very important. Hope that helps, Mark