Leaderboard

Hi Ammar, If You need real help, You should do what @RichardHarris123 asked to do - the free oscillations test when balance is in place but the pallet fork is not, and write here the result. You must turn the balance to 180 degr. and release it to oscillate till full stop, and count the number of free oscillations. About 100 is expected when balance is OK. It is no good idea to mix the bridges and cocks, as they are actually parts of their own main plare and are mashinned together with it. So generally it is recommended to choose the movement in which the good balance came with. You can use the original movement, but then the original balance cock is to be used. Mixing hte parts sometimes leads to problems that even for experienced watcmakers is hard to find and to solve.

Just done a cross check with the Lower Jewel on the 1686 and which other movements it's also used in. One of which is the 1187 and that uses the 170.03. https://www.emmywatch.com/db/part/jewel_lower_balance_cap--330_178/a_schild--1686/

Exact same materials and exact same problems! IPA is not a good degreaser or oil residue remover. Something like paraffin should work better for the initial wash. Also, as I discovered, IPA and lighter fluid are so different they do not even mix well! See the photo - a few drops of each in a flat plastic lid, and after a couple of minutes there is still a clear, sharp line where the two different liquids are in contact but staying separate! Lighter fluid on the left, IPA on the right - and the contact line between them in the marked area:

The WeiShi Timegraphers do allow manual set of beat rate @ 17280.

Happy to oblige. This lists calibres. Hope it is what you want. https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/lift_angles

Auto setting work just fine for 'modern' watches but it's highly unlikely it's going to be a 'standard' frequency for an old pin pallet pocket watch. If you know the movement then you should be able to find the frequency and lift angle to suit.

Typically the auto settings work just fine as That is why they have the auto settings. In order to use the manual settings you have to be aware that other watches exist and conceivably may run into one of those at some point time perhaps. Then comes the fun of guessing which frequency the manual setting should be on as there are quite a few different settings there.

Yes the classic problem of you can't please everybody and somebody will be unhappy about something. Then one of the problems with experience is how you know if you're experienced or not? Yes I know on paper it seems like a simple question with answer but for a lot of people that are in isolated or basically an online discussion group you don't necessarily have a good way of telling your skill set with anybody else's skill set. So while you may seem to be extremely experienced the reality is you may not be. Or people at seemingly think they're not experience may still have way way more experience and others. Or the greatest amusement I have on this group is you can be voted number one on a regular basis and not necessarily be super experienced but only because you're taking part in all the discussions can you get a lot of thumbs up now making you the most experienced person on the board without necessarily being the most experienced. Then unfortunately even though we would like to know a location I find a lot of people want to order from cousins even if they are in the US. But still it would help for things like eBay is to build the point out a country for eBay purchases as shipping can get expensive when ordering from obscure sellers

I suggested that an introduction with basic information such as, experience and location should be compulsory but it was deemed unnecessary.

Thanks, I will order a pack of those and might aswell get 173.03. Won't hurt to have more spares.

The difference between the 1187 & 1194 is the size 10.5 & 11.5 so it's unusual to see both markings on the plate as this is the main difference. It would help to know where in the world you are so people can advise a suitable supplier.

Here is a listing for what you need, I have bought from this seller before, fast postage. Also you may or may not have this parts listing. Regards CJ https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/335453307421?itmmeta=01J2F1W13ZDH47GNXBABMZV1YY&hash=item4e1a93421d:g:sR0AAOSw5HBhUdfX&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwAXDBkKBR816XQDlR1Hn8cbDGrQHR9QMTQw098B6e2rOGbDoNc%2Fv8243e1lqMgVSlrh5vHQbD%2FKVZk9MWnx2LQJBjexIkBmQHh4QzVhNJ2x5BFs1o2UjJD3ceYqXkzUJHJ93VDpJ%2F0L%2BvoMYc5SykX6HBdpMXMT5zlDECj7c2fTZUnR1cJVgfRBK8fLh5EuoIi9P4FpGsouhRhOqvRJvZEDg412FbsVm25hWKcSLRJp4UIpXteNp1dnj4EgjCzhXkg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4qS8OGTZA AS 1187,1194.pdf

@Dalichhas only one post, obviously not a regular. We don't discuss buying and selling on here.

If you look for AS1187, you should be able to find it. I've done a quick search and have found several suppliers.

From the design and dial I'd lean towards 1976 too.

What is the settings' diameter?

I was using lighter fluid only, for the main washing part, then using IPA (the 99.7% grade) as a rinse. I believe what was happening was the IPA never really mixed with the lighter fluid that coated the parts, so the crud dissolved in that was left as residue after everything evaporated. And IPA mixes with dried oil & grease about as well as it mixes with lighter fluid. I also know I've not had a single "sluggish movement" problem since switching cleaning solutions.

yes i've got one, I didn't get the gen Crocker one as far too expensive when i was starting out, they are very good as they hold the graver exactly at the correct angle, can be a little bit of a faff to set the graver flat on the stone but once there its good to go.

I was thinking about getting one, but I'm managing ok with a diamond disk and a rolling sharpener. hmm Clockboy uses one.

Have you replaced the date ring or is it still original? You may have to try taking a bit off the inside of the ring as I think you'll struggle to find a replacement.

These are fun movements, much easier to work on than more modern quartz designs, everything big. I did a Smiths Astral equipped with with a 9183 here.

The plastic ring has shrinked. You need new one, if possible not as old as the old one...

Generally there is no reason why a TG cannot test pin pallet watches. But some use lower beat rates than 18000 that are not included with cheap TGs . Maybe that is your problem. Frank

You are correct that is when parts were plentiful. These days you have no option but to open them. Look at the side and you will see a very thin mark around the barrel, you need a very thin blade a razor blade is best to open it. Be careful with the teeth and the cap as it is thin you do not want to distort it.

Final update to this, I managed to buy a complete watch for spares or repair at the Birmingham watch fair, an Omega cal 1022 for the bargain price of £50 (and it works ) The case back was a perfect fit and the watch has been running now since Sunday afternoon from start up on the rotor. I will run it to the end of the week and then its going back to my customer. Thank you for all the help and advice and I have learnt do not forget to check case back ref numbers DOH.

I asked how freely the balance runs without the pallet in place. Remove the pallet fork and check for freedom of movement of the balance wheel.

Well, it's finally back in the case and polished up. It's not perfect, but I'm still pretty proud of the work. It was a tremendous learning experience, and really stretched my skill set. Thank you again to everyone who helped me out along the way! And bonus penny for scale: