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It may be my age but I can’t get on with the Crocker style jig for honing my gravers , I would have liked the Bergeon one but there is no way I am paying £120 just to sharpen gravers , I used to do it free hand but having gout in both hand has made it difficult, I chanced upon a set of drawings from John Wildings book tools for the clockmaker & repairer so today I made it and I must say it does a good job, not sure if legal to post drawing so if anyone interested then PM me . Dell

I did a hunt one evening a week or two ago to test the 1010 waters. I ended up landing a 404 and this guy: All stainless "Wadsworth" with a 17 jewel AS 1187. I especially like the blued H/M hands with the red S hand, which all look to be in excellent condition under the scratchy crystal. Runs a treat when wound, but I'm not even going to bother putting it on the timegrapher. I'm sure it needs plenty of attention. For now, it goes into the project box with the other degenerates!

In a watch repair discussion group you don't even give us a picture of the watch? Fortunately grand Seiko has a website and I can get descriptions and pictures there https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/special/9s25th/chapter7/index https://www.grand-seiko.com/ca-en/collections/movement/mechanical/9sc5 One of the problems today and watch repair is there's a lack of people doing watch repair. So six months while it may seem like a long time to get it back is actually quite quick as you might be waiting much longer for other places. One of the problems with unusual escapement's are the timing machine has to be designed to work with them. For example Swiss witschi has other settings for other types of escapement's. Because this isn't your conventional lever escapement the rules do not apply and the timing machines do not work with them. Then even if you had a timing machine which you don't because there's probably a custom machine it would still be basically worthless. Typically for watches like this chronometer grade watches they are timed over a span of time compared to a very precise standard. The timing machine points your direction but chronometer specifications specify timekeeping over time. So the instantaneous if your timing machine works which it doesn't can have errors because that's not how these watches are timed. Then I did find some timing specifications later I found more timing specifications if you poke around the blanks I have up above you get all kinds of specifications. Like for instance where's the amplitude or the beat? Obviously grand Seiko does not intend their watches to be sold by anyone on this group because the most important thing on this group is your amplitude and they would even give a specification for that. That's because typically the normal customer would care less about those things typically all they would care about is timekeeping. I suppose based on the specs below your off by one second that is providing your time source is more accurate than the grand Seiko and as I said you would have to do this over a span of time. So basically your watches running fine. Grand Seiko really needs to have a place to send the customer to to reassure them that their watches working perfectly and there's nothing wrong with their watch.

But, but, but it’s “unique “ and “rare” ! Tom

Hi Joe, Well it really depends on the type of the escape wheel. In case of english lever and also all clocks, etc. making escape wheel is easy as as piece of cake. Also, brass wheels is much much easier to make than steel ones. I only have one video that shows how the movement (english lever one) works with the new wheel made, and some pictures of the making itself. But, I didnt manage last night to find this video in my Youtube channel, which is strange. Didn't manage to fint the message in the russian forum, where I have shown the pictures and the video, a lot of time has passed... I still have all in my old laptop, so will show here, but give me some time.

Hi Daisy welcome, with the information you've provided from the previous repair guy this sounds very much like the short flat spring that keeps the sweep seconds pinion engaged with the indirect sweep wheel. Without the correct spring tension the second hand can stutter, the arbor that the hand connects to has too much free play so the pinion leaves and wheel teeth do no remain constantly meshed. Haha you beat me to it matey and with a picture Ps just be careful with your outlining in future if that spring had 2 fixing locations then............i need say no more

Original is 290mm and generic is 260mm

I believe this is a device that stops the movement when power indicator gets to 0. If the real power reserve is 50 hours, thus the power indicator by the hepl of this stopwork will limit the power reserve to 40 hours by stopping the movement. This works the same like maltian cross barrel arbor limiter on old quality movements Thus, when You start winding, You will imediately have good torque in the train for reaching good amplitude.

Could you explain this ‘stopwork’?

I suppose you ordered from VTA? For some reason I can't see his inventory anymore without changing the shipping address to Australia. Earlier I've ordered some stuff, mostly mainspring arbor jewels. Nice to see there's a good stock of gaskets too. I have many watches with hardlex waiting for me to have the time to service, I might need to order some too.

+1. What I'm curious about, is a correct reading of the amplitude. This is a movement with 36'000 bpm and I wonder if they have the same desired range of amplitude. I'll refrain from giving numbers, but you all know what I mean. Or if someone has experience with El Primero movements. I can offer one anecdote. I saw a Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence. That movement runs at a ridiculous 57'600 bpm (8 Hz). According to an article I read, it should run at around 200° amplitude. The one I saw was running at about 135° only (I took a super slow motion video of the balance), but it wasn't fully wound.

GS TENTAGRAPH needs no introduction. Selfwinder version, houses Cal 9SC5, which I think has so far remained unrivaled among GS beaters. Its timekeeping beaten only by GS spring drive, which I have one ( spring drive ) and can vouch for. @Kkramme as John described, your TG is unlikely to have recognised the escapement in your watch. Rgds

What I have done many times is message the seller explaining to them and tell them unless they remove the item within a certain time I will report it and it might fall back on the person as ebay might decide to ban them from the site. It works every time unless its chinese in which case they ask me how can they help me

My experience with reporting things the eBay is a waste of time. Then I suppose we give the seller the benefit of the doubt of just being extremely stupid. Notice the price is based on the appraisal price and the appraisal is for insurance purposes. Where I work on a fairly regular basis people will find watches in the estate of and will bring them in hoping that that Rolex is and it's never real. So somebody is looking solely at the appraisal and maybe we should find another watch like that on eBay there's a lot of them typically and show it's not rare expensive I guess you could try reporting them to eBay for stupidity but usually it's a waste of time Oh and for some amusement let's look at the other item for sale. They are definitely clueless stupid people as they are embracing the appraisal which is total rubbish. Fortunately the prices are so insanely high there be unlikely anyone would be as equally as stupid as to try to buy one of these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/235622992795 So basically you're just dealing with extremely stupid person that there really isn't much you can do with. Blood be really interesting though as to who did the appraisals and report them to is there supposed to be I think a licensed I think and obviously there is incompetent with their appraisals.

What a bloody nerve. You should report it.

Do I understand correctly that you're trying to put in a new generic mainspring in, but the size of the inner coil is not correct? If so, you can alter it's size as is explained in this video:

Timegraphers can be less than ideal for measuring the beat error of your dual impulse escapement (just like they can have problems with Omega's coaxial escapements). The impulse delivery in your 9SA5-based movement is by definition asymmetrical.It's unlikely the watch had to go back in the first place; I'd trust Grand Seiko on this unless your watch is outside of accuracy norms. [from a knowledgeable person]

Here are two pictures and the video On the pictures You will see the original damaged table of the wheel and the one that I have cut with the help of milling attachment on the lathe. The video just shows how the movement works with the new wheel: By the images and video names You will see that this has been made back in 2018. I must explain some steps of the making as they are important and are not seen as the images are not enough to explain everything. First, the new table is made with a little bigger diam than needed, and the teeth tips are not sharp as they must be in the end. The cutting here is simple process and is made with one passing only with shaped by hand cutter to give the form of the teeth as shown. The rough table then is riveted to the pinion and engagement with the lever (the drop lock) is examined on depthing tool. Then reducing of the diameter by grinding with fine diamond file while rotating the wheel between centers (in turns) is done untill the desired drop lock is acheaved. This is because in english lever one can not regulate the depth by shifting pallet stones. Finally, sharpenning of the teeth by hand filing the rear surface of the teeth is done until the tips get almost sharp (just verry small plates left on the tips)

Thinking about how incredibly easy it is for you to make everything related to watches may be used should think of going in a new direction? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Daniels_(watchmaker) Then there is somebody who followed in George's footsteps. Rogers a very interesting person I've actually met him twice I found him quite interesting and look what he's done with his skills. It does appear from what I'm reading that you beat these guys out So I was thinking maybe You should start making complete watch. Almost anybody can fix the watch but your skills are going to waste if you're not making a watch a complete watch https://www.rwsmithwatches.com/

As long as you use benzine/lighter fluid or professional cleaners (waterless), you don't have to worry about the shellac. Just don't use IPA. Install the balance complete on the empty mainplate and put it in your ultrasonic cleaner for 5-10min. It'll be fine.

Hi Daisy, The diagnosis is most likely correct: there's a spring that puts a tiny bit of tension on the seconds pinion (which holds the seconds hand). If that spring is too loose, badly placed, or even missing, the second hand will skip. A skilled watchmaker should be able to fix this easily. Cheers PS: See picture. This is a Rolex calibre 1225, you may have this or a similar movement in your Oysterdate. The spring is surrounded in green, the red arrow points at seconds pinion.

Lay the cock with balance attached on bottom of a glass Jar, (cock down-balance up). Pour your cleaning solution in the jar until fluid level reaches somewhat below the roller table. Tighten( air tight) the lid of the jar. Fluid won't reach the impulse jewel, but hairspring is fully immersed in cleaning fluid, and can be left to soak as long as you want. Obviously the Jar best be of clear see-through glass, and balance tilts, make sure that impulse jewel sticks out of the fluid. Good luck

I saw a mention in one thread with the OP saying they could not take good photos of a watch movement they were asking about, so I thought I'd post my ultra-cheapo method: A local second hand shop had a stack of the nasty looking "clip on" lens kits for smartphones; they were priced at 50p so I got one out of curiosity. I didn't even try they for weeks, until I was struggling to take a high enough magnification of a damaged piece of jewellery, for a friend. The "macro" lens in these kits is actually amazing, it's very effective - and the full kits around only around £3 to £4 on ebay. The first photos are the particular 50p lens kit I got, and the lens I'm using from that, then examples photos, using my iphone with the macro lens in the clip and approximately centred over the camera lens. It does need a good light, and finding the exact height for best focus can be tricky sometimes, but the results are worth it. The movement is a Junghans calibre 73 from ebay:

Arrived today. Quartz trash. Seller's listing was just a pile of lies and fake reviews. Dispute process started.