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Here’s what looks like what John is looking for- you can see a spring/wedge piece sticking out the side that your pic doesn’t show? Either the wedge is removed and the movement lifts off the body or the case back should lift and slide, maybe towards the crown in order to release it from the main body. I don’t have a good look from the side but it looks like the case is thick enough so when sliding the back a bit it will clear the rotor…

Got a text from a friend letting me know the local Habitat for Humanity Re-Store just got a bunch of watches in, so I ran over for a drive and found a few really neat thing! First off is this Cimer ladies' watch for $1. I had a hunch it had radium lume, so I had a rock-collecting friend test it with his scintillator, and sure enough it looks like it. Here it is with and without UV light. Then there was this miniscule Westclox ladies' watch for $1. Vintage Timex, $1. The rest don't technically qualify for the 404 club, but since I got them at the same time: a Biltmore pocket watch for $8, these two Timexes for $6 and $10, and a Galco stopwatch for $20. Inside the back it says "Jules Racine & Co."

Good evening, I was in Amsterdam around a year ago. Check out Kramer "Kunst & Antiek" just down from the Rijksmuseum on Nieuwe Spiegelstraat. It had some vintage watches in the window if you're passing also on the same street there's "Gude & Meis Antieke klokken". Had some wonderful looking clocks inside.

Good to see you so energetic Richard, enjoy your trip. Take lots of pix, my causing says memories are island of happy times, or something to this effect. frankly don't know where causin have read it. Don't think causine is smart enough to have personally discovered this fact. Best wishes

This gives you two sides to push on, to unlock/ release the case back. First one , spring might slide out if you push on it in direction thats parralel to straps " spring bar" Second , concievably pushing on the " spring / wedge" might move it out of a groove cut in case back. Expectedly, cleaning around the srping/ wedge, might reveal more as it might be a 1mm thick spring and flex easy. Rgds @rehajm Very reasonable and smart of you, to predict probable ways this might be done.

Last time I needed an oddball winder for a Bulova I just made one from brass tube and used an arbor from my set.

Cleaned up well with a new crystal.

Being a battery clamp the screws you're looking at on Cousins won't work. There should be a number somewhere on the movement and photos would help.

A friend of mine asked me if I could fix two vintage Omega watches. One from 1954 and one from the 1970s I believe. The older watch is a PX6553 with a cal 420 movement (I would love to know the model name if anyone knows). The 420 needed a complete service and is now running great.

I did some additional cleaning and discovered that the bars actually run the full width of the watch case in the slot cut in the gold part of the case. See red lines on pic. It seems that maybe I should push on one end and push it entirely out the other side. I placed a small screwdriver on the end closest to the crown side and tapped on it and it did move a bit out towards the other side. It doesn’t seem as if that could do any damage if I continue to push it through until I can grip it with pliers and pull it out the other side. Am I missing anything? Nucejoe, I just reread your comments and I think this is exactly what you are suggesting, correct? Ok, got it! Once again thank you to everyone for your help!

If you have the experience to be working on one of these then you shouldn't need any documents.

Doesn’t matter because it is only to stop the lacquer getting in the bushes and don’t touch the plates with bare hands once clean before lacquering.

As per the recommendations I removed the straps but there were no numbers between the lugs(see pics). However, I did some more cleaning and tried a different camera angle and did find that there are two spring/wedge pieces inserted, one at each end of the stainless steel case back(see additional pics). So, now I need to know how to get them out and remove the case back. This is my first experience with this type of case. Thanks for your help.

I know Kalle Slaap lives near Amsterdam. the chap who has his watchmaking channel Chronoglide Watchmakers. Type in google what to do in amsterdam. There cheese is like rubber

Will you remove the strap, might find a release spring hidden between the lugs.

Hi need pictures of the movement and calibre number .

Thanks, Knebo, much appreciated! I thought I was alone in this. Nothing is as comforting as an unfortunate brother so you sharing the same experience made me feel much better as well! I will! I believe most of the heavy lifting has now been done, in this case getting rid of all the metal paste that had spread from the rim of the oscillating weight to just about everywhere. Before going into my Elma cleaning machine I carefully brushed every single part in Horosolv Still, that wasn't enough! In my stereo microscope, I could detect the paste between pinion leaves on small gears and on some pivot shoulders. Before cleaning, all jewels were completely void of oil and many jewel holes were filled with the metal paste, but to my delight, the only pivot that needed a bit of burnishing was the fourth wheel. I guess that shows the phenomenal quality of the alloy used in these Rolex movements. Surprisingly, the balance spring came out of the cleaning machine in perfect condition! Now all that remains is the fun part (unless something unexpected happens), which is to finish the reassembly of the movement and the watch. In the long term, I plan to create a service walkthrough and for this purpose, I am taking lots of pictures of which I will probably only use a quarter. For those of you who want to see all of these pictures, you can click on the link below. https://1drv.ms/f/s!AnVrKJ9agkNWkokVhogLYtvc6xAqdQ?e=qjlJ4w (Sort by name in ascending order)

sometimes this can be referred to as hijacking a discussion. Often times usually newbies who come to existing discussions and say my watches the same as and that's not really the way to do it as I would typically consider each watch a separate discussion. then we throw in the other problem of the title versus the discussion itself. Titles need to reflect what the discussion is otherwise people will not necessarily participate in a discussion if the title does not reflect what the discussion is. so this now brings up what exactly is the question kind of an yes it is very confusing then I'm confused where they answer was but apparently it's been answered? just a clarification to Omega reference or case numbers? They're not always an exact science Frentzen some wobble watch will get a number and it could refer to quite a few different cases. In other words it could be stainless steel or solid gold or lots of things it's more like a style number than an exact something number. Then especially when you start C Diels changed often times people will assemble a watch to sell to some unsuspecting person and they will mix-and-match things that seem to fit in the case. Then yes the other case I would definitely recommend not prying as that's not how the watch comes out. It be really nice if we had a number from anywhere? I don't suppose there is numbers at the end of the case if you remove the strap? conveniently I cannot find a picture of what I'm looking for but I can speculate on what I'm finding there is supposed to be two separate spring clips that are used to hold the stainless steel part of the case in the rest of the case. So somehow you have to push them out in the absence of any other information from where their hiding in the image. Then the entire back assembly with the crown will come out. That's why you'll notice that the crown case tube is part of the stainless steel part holding the entire movement and not attached to the outer case itself.

Another $5US pick up. Interesting jump hour or "digital" watch. Not sure why the long tub on the stem. Too bad on the cracked acrylic as probably won't find a replacement. Has a BF 866 that had a tweaked hairspring, broken pivot on the escape wheel, and missing pin pallet and cock and screw. Luckily I had a donor movement that had a completely toasted hairspring that I was able to scrounge from. Also got the hairspring sorted out enough to run (still needs work). Found a new use for a jewel picker that Alex Hamilton recommended for use on the balance jewels shock spring; that brass pin that holds the hairspring in the stud, use the jewel picker to hold the pin straight out to reinsert in the stud hole!

notice something interesting your quote above? The peculiar partnership between citizen and Bulova with citizen basically making the later generation tuning fork watches were at least quite a few of them. Plus citizen has their own separate tuning fork watch kinda like 219 version but it looks different than the 219 that were normally used to. Then as you can't actually tell which movement you have without taking the back off you should probably assume that on a tuning fork watch putting it in the setting isn't going to really save you a lot of power at all. With the unfortunate reality of sooner or later the battery conceivably will leak. Fortunately unlike the old days when they leaked and there are actually quite aggressive ad what happened when they leaked out of being a very bad when the modern batteries leak there so slow yes end up with white alkaline powder but still you shouldn't have that floating around inside your watch.

I think this answers the question.

usually on quartz watches pulling out the crown stops the stepping motors but still maintains the quartz oscillator. Which is drawing an extremely low amount of power. but pulling the crown out does not give you it infinite life the battery will eventually fail as it consumes its internal components. Then if it's silver oxide it's not an acid is an alkaline. But it's equivalent to drain cleaner which is not good to have floating around inside the watch. Usually the low drain batteries are less likely to leak the high drain batteries more likely. so basically if you aren't going to use electric watch it's best to remove the battery to avoid problems.

Pulling the crown does prolong the battery life but some watches do still take a small current even with the crown pulled. If you're using Silver Oxide Batteries then these are less prone to leaking.

Hi Nigel, Well, don't expect miracles from barrel arbor polishing. I mean it is good to try as to know how it works for gaining experience, but this are mainly things that can fill hours of videos in video channels. As for the mainspring, it depends on the condition of the original spring. I don't have much experience with this calibre as it is pretty rare in my country. I have worked on some of them in the distant past, but even don't remember if the spring is of 'modern' white alloy or steel with tempered color. But, my personal experience with USSR watches is that they have good springs and replacing them is useless unless they are broken or damaged in some other way. This calibre has special 3th wheel that needs some care, as it may be trap for loosing amplitude. Take care to ensure the free rotating table of it rotates really free, and put small quantity of oil in it's bearing on the pinion. Free oscillations test will show the balance condition. Make sure there are no losses of energy there, then good amplitude is guaranteed. The pallets adjustment is something that one should not be frightened of. The adjustment itself is simple thing, but one has to know how to check if the adjustment is correct as to ensure the escapement doesn't loose energy and all safety functions work as they should, only then the things will come in their place. This comes with some practice and experience gaining. Try to wear the watch for awhile in normal conditions to ensure there are no stops from the escapement, this is one of the ways to check the safety functions.

Hadn't heard of epoxy, but I've used super glue to open a caseback like that. Superglue a nut to it. Wrench it to loosen. Use acetone to remove the super glue.

What I find the 3D housing, plunger and setting bowl really useful for is changing the spring orientation. I have a set of Bergeon right hand winders but don't want to pay almost £40 a pop per left hand arbor. I've tried reversing springs by using an empty mainspring ring but 9 times out of 10 I end up with a jack in the box and lots of swearing The 9.5, 10 and 11mm 3D housings fit my number 6 and 7 winders and make changing the spring direction a doddle and for strange barrel sizes you can always scale the print. Not had a 3D printer for long but it's a fantastic tool, especially if you put the effort into learning a CAD program and designing your own parts.

I don't know if it has a particular name, nor whether or not it's unique to Breitling. If I have counted correctly it has 16 sides, so it's hexadecagon.