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It's a nice little watch, however the sentimental value is near infinitely greater than the monetary value. Anyone looking at "Buy it now" prices on ebay and other sites would drastically over-value it. See the sold item below for an example of an actual selling price for a virtually identical watch, earlier this year (£12.99): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126543496906 I'd pass that on to your relative as the taxable value - she's far better off keeping it & the cost of that is negligible. It could possibly sell for rather more if two bidders particularly liked the look of it, but there are no guarantees whatsoever. I've put unusual items on ebay many times & some sell for the starting price (if at all), as there is only one person actually interested - as with the watch above, just one bid! Unless they have particularly rare or unusual movements, most of the value in old pocket watches is in the case rather than the movement - that's why there are vastly more movements than complete watches on such as ebay.

Doesn't look of any significance a fairly standard 5 bar cylinder movement. £250.00 to value it, good god I'm in the wrong job, that's 3-5x what its actually worth. Would be interesting to date it , hallmarks- Queen Vicky's head and lion salient indicate English Victorian, find the date letter code and assaying symbol to post up please.

Something I have to tell people when they bring in pocket watches, is that they are usually never monetarily worth more than what a service will be, of course with exceptions. They are mostly repaired and restored because its a family heirloom, or some type of emotional attachment. Heck, I had a lady bring in a pocket watch that said Hong Kong on the dial, had a movement with 1 jewel, and a pot metal case. She was told her great grandfather got it as a gift and its been in the family for generations. I pegged it at probably 1990s. She needed some custom work done on the case and tube to get a new crown in. Spent quite a bit on a pocket watch worth just a few dollars. But it reminds her of family and that's what is important to her.

Would changing which hole the bezel spring tab sits in maybe make a difference? I know the holes look farther apart than what the bezel is misaligned, but I bet there are 2 bezel clicks worth of distance in there.

You know what, I agree with you. That makes a lot of sense. I do wish we would see some of the bigger channels do more complicated repairs, like parts manufacturing. Someone like Clickspring servicing a watch that needs parts made would be quite entertaining to watch.

This is known as a 5 bar movement. made on the Swiss French border. Some of the dials are extremely decorative, yours is quite nice and I don't see any cracks to it. The style of the hands are called spade and very ordinary again some are very decorative. Cylinder escapements can be poor timekeepers as the balance is not compensated and the weather will cause fluctuation in time keeping. £80 if you are lucky. There are thousands of these about.

Unfortunately unless someone disagrees, there's no monetary value. I can't see it selling for more than £30, probably less.

HWGIKE#17 Oris 654 KIF Pin pallet. Water damaged so it was a lot of work to clean all parts. Its a miracle that it runs and shows an acceptable result on the time machine. Could not find a second hand for it yet. Did you know that you not just can use a hair from the back of your hand for oiling but you can paint with it? Just in case when you wash off some of the numbers from your date disk? Three more Oris movements in the queue and then I move on to something else.

Just thinking, we are talking like the evaporust is the bad guy - eating away the metal. But I am wondering if it is just revealing how much metal has been previously eaten away by the rust. Maybe we are shooting the messenger here?

So will it not rotate one more click anti clockwise to line it up?

Here's the link to the full chart from Cousins. SR41W 392 https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/products/6913_Seizaiken.pdf

@GPrideaux The one I made above was also 5.5mm for a Bulova and wasn't easy to work with but did the job.

I've done a couple now: one 5.5mm (custom size) and one 14.0mm. They work fine. I had previously made one from brass tube with a 3D-printed plunger for a tiny ladies watch (Seiko Rainbow with cal 1104A movement) with a 6mm diameter barrel that was too small for any of the winders in my cheap Chinese set, using an arbor from the set, but when I was trying to coax the tail into the tube it caught on the edge of the cutout and broke off. The RS winder was more successful. It may just be that it was easier to hold than the 5.5mm tubing so I had more control. I'm not sure. By the time I had received a donor movement for that watch (which was needed for multiple parts) I had made a suitable RS winder and had no problems with it.

For basically anything rust-related, I use Evaporust. Usually, for chemicals, the safety to efficacy relationship is inverse; the more effective a chemical is, the less safe it is. Evaporust seems to have hit a nice sweet spot in that curve, where it is very safe, and very effective....mostly. I learned the hard way that you should not use Evaporust on watch movements. Or at the very least, do not use them on any part of the going train if they're composed of steel. According to their website, Evaporust causes a phenomenon called "carbon migration." Since steel is Carbon and Iron, and Evaporust removes Iron, you're left with just carbon on the surface, including in between pinion leaves, which seemingly can only be removed via manual scraping. And you have to put a good amount of elbow grease into scraping it off, and one slip and you'll definitely destroy the part. One watch was completely locked up, the other is limping by with maybe 60 degrees of amplitude. Just putting this out there in case anyone else thinks to try it.

They do make a bit of mechanical commotion - I enjoy it…

You could get a whole movement for less than that and cheaper. Balance and roller seem ok, wheel hole taken a bit of a battering, hairspring looks dirty or worse could be rusty. Also thought it looked a little small for the wheel. Seven months on and the thread watch is running well, the missus said she can hear it when I'm sat at the far end of the sofa reading. It's still within a minute or two per week. England on the dial Cheltenham, Great Britain on the dial Wales. Towards the end of business Switzerland were making their watches.

Tom

A few of my favorites. Mostly wear the 1016. Still haven't landed on a dive watch. I ended up selling the seamaster as it was too thick. I like my explorer 2 build, but the hands weren't quite right so I have a few sets coming. I might have to pick up an explorer 2 in the future. Secondhand markets are coming down pretty well.

Evaporust is pH neutral. Evapo-Rust is a water-based rust remover that works through selective chelation to remove iron from rust: Chelation: A synthetic molecule in Evapo-Rust bonds with iron in the rust, holding it in solution. Sulfur-bearing organic molecule: A sulfur-bearing organic molecule pulls the iron away from the chelating agent, forming a ferric sulfate complex. Free chelating agent: The chelating agent is then free to remove more iron from the rust

From Cousins site you can download Pdf's for Incabloc. Looking in the ETA document The cap jewels (Pierre de c. pivot) are the same upper (dessus) and lower (desous) 122.11 https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/inca-end-stones Unfortunately out of stock, but they usually restock pretty quickly. These are common parts, so worth having a few in stock.

That whole operation winding half the mainspring, putting in the arbor, and snapping on the lid was one shot and took about 15sec in total (which is 1/4 the time I spend thinking about which way my spring goes into the barrel)

No free lunch. Many of the old books mention using xyz acid to remove the blue from tempering (after heat treatment), but how long to leave the part? Acid, in numerous forms has been used for rust removal over the years, Naval Jelly being a big one, which for all of Evaporust's efforts to hide their formula, is essentially what it is. It doesn't reallly hit the steel, it really hits the iron oxide, but, as Einstein would attest, time is a factor. Not too long ago I put some hands in a 12 percent solution of sulphuric acid, bolstered by something I read in Gazeley or DeCarle, and forgot about them until the morning. There was an outline of the hands in the jar, but no more hands. There's another issue using acids to remove rust on springs and things, which is hydrogen embrittlement. I remember reading about a BMX racer, who took a rusty vintage frame and soaked in muriatic acid for a few hours to remove the rust (I did the same on rusty gas tanks from cars when I was a young mechanic), he did a simple jump and the frame disintegrated on him. On something like a massive 20kg 4 jaw chuck evaporust is probably the bees' knees. For little, critical stuff, no.