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Hi Jay, Actually, it is like a cat which is in a cage. If the cat has once found a way out of the cage, then the cage for sure is not in order. The reverse is not always true: if the cat is still in the cage, then it doesn't mean the cage is in order. May be the cat is lazy, not smart enough or not hungry... As You cat has proven to be able to get out of the cage, then no point to doubt if it will get out again. The overbanking may not happen when the watch works on the table. But, start to use it as a watch - put it on the wrist, then forget about it and do You normal activities. Shaking and sudden position changes will provoke overbanking, and if it is able to happen, then it, sooner or later, will happen again.

Finally got it back together. I have to say, a pretty nice result.

All the old tank watches that i own have a fancy crystal, either a single ( barrel shape )or compound curves from all four sides which result in a dome that begin from flat edges or from the edges of a watch that has a curved case. Depending which shape you have are known as a military glass. I have a few cases of fancy crystals but i think none have the wide ledge that fits under a bezel but i will have a look when i get home. This is one of my oris that has a domed glass with cuved sides to match the shape of the case sides. Case sets of these fancy glasses often need to be trimmed and shaped by hand to fit . Trimming accurately to size to avoid gluing is time consuming working almost to the tolerances associated with the mechanical side of watches. Less than the usual incremental 0.1mm but thevtime and effort is worth it for the overall appearance.

It's the wrong glass with all old sweep second hand movement it should have a high dome glass. Look on the net for someone who cut and fit shaped watch glasses. Remove the complete balance no need to send that and send the rest to them.

Just finished up my first repair attempt on an 1939 Omega 38.5LT1 GSTP watch. Bought it as a non working watch for $80 Usd and was pretty happy I just had to replace the mainspring with one from a parts watch (Still took 3 hours though) The barrel had some very rusty looking oil on the arbor, so I cleaned it and the mainplate/bridge pivots with Naptha. Took me a about 2 hours just to rewind the donor mainspring. my conclusion is the 3D printed winders Aren't the best for pocket watch mainsprings. So I'm going to buy a bergeon winder Since I expect to be working with this calibre quite a bit. Once I get some proper oils and cleaning fluids I'll go through again and clean everything. And probably replace the crystal once I decide how I'll deal with the lume. But for now I managed to get a watch to run within 10 sec/day without causing more damage, so I'm perfectly happy with it as is.

the problem seems to be very little technical documentation. This happened before when somebody asked about anything for this brand there's just like nothing. Whereas Rolex all kinds of documentation exists just not for that case number.

Just takes some extra careful attention noting any chamfered edges to lock into the case lips and dont rush it, the finish is then back as the original . Get close to the size with a fine file then fine grit lapping film or sand paper to achieve the goal, the end result is far above gluing the crystal imho.

I am lazy to write it again, so just quoted myself

I just finished my first attempt at servicing the watch. I'm pleased with the results. I did not expect such a good improvement with the amplitude. Found a crack in the balance bridge jewel which is now also on my list of things to fix. My oiling skills probably need work, and new oil is now on my endlessly growing shopping list.

This place might be worth a look/contacting Mike @mikepilk https://springsandthings.me.uk/product-category/compression_springs/ Tom

https://ranfft.org/caliber/8446-Omega-385L-T1

That’s going to be quite attractive when complete. Do you know the calibre size? The movement resembles the classic Omega 30t2 in a larger size…

Yes, I was going to suggest this but your case seemed simpler and a possible stock fit. Unfortunate for you but it’s good to know I can’t just order up a square hi dome from Cousins… I have an old Gruen with a burned up square crystal . I contacted these people who were responsive to my inquiry. They estimated $30-40US to fit a new one to my Gruen case… http://www.crystalfit.com …and a long shot if you haven’t already checked but I see there some suppliers like Esslinger offering Cartier-style square/rectangle acrylic with a bit of clearance and they list measurements. Perhaps there’s something in your size?

I have a set of torx screwdrives. Perfect for the job, it came out without a fight. It measures up to the one you show Looking for screwdown crown, I notice that there are two sizes of threads for the inside of the crown, 0.25mm and 0.35mm. It doesn't say which this tube is, I guess 0.25mm?

I attempted using denture cleaner to hide some of the hairline cracks in the dial, Worked great but also removed all the lume (I knew the risk at least) Which is great because it now gives me an excuse to try reluming a dial and hands!

You could dress the hands: 1) bend the tip of the minute hand down 2) correctly seat the minute hand (is tilted) 3) bend the tip of the sweep second hand down Also the glass may be the wrong type, too flat. There are others with a steeper edge. Frank

I modified a cheap gear puller from AliExpress and made a hand remover for the Atmos clock. It worked perfectly and removed the minute hand easily. The hour hand a little stubborn and took a bit of persuasion to loosen it. After the hand was removed, I found scratch marks on the hour wheel. So, someone has been in this clock before. I also made a movement holder from bits I had around the house. I'll probably remove the movement tonight.

Be aware that the lume is radioactive. Take adequate measures to avoid inhaling or swallowing particles of it.

I've tried one but the thing I like more with the Horia is that I can put the hand tube between the "jaws", flip the tool on its side under the microscope and see the tube compress just a bit while I turn the micrometer.