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Thanks @tomh207 for bringing this to my attention. I went to the sale and managed to get myself a few watches to play with. 72 of them in fact, for AUD $291, which by a strange coincidence is $4.04 each Of course, in GBP that is only £2.08. I think the 4 misfits at the lower right are electric, but the rest are all mechanical movements. Quite a few of them started running when I gave a couple of winds. Many others would advance the second hands when I rotated the case. A few have missing crowns and/or stems, and some look almost trashed. I think they should keep me occupied for quite a while. I also managed to pick up an August Schatz 1000 day torsion clock for $12. I tried to bid on some of the tools, but the prices went way above my limit. There was a ruby jaw poising tool that seemed in pretty good condition, but too many other people wanted it. There was also a Jacot tool that was rusty and seized up. I was willing to take a punt on restoring it for a good price, but unfortunately it was bundled with a lathe I didn't need, so the lot went way past my ceiling. All in all it was a fun day. A few German and English mantel clocks, torsion clocks and American gingerbread clocks went for crazy low prices, but I have enough clocks to be getting on with. There were only about 12 people at the auction, but a lot more on line I think. Forgot to mention I also bought a mixed lot of pocket watch movements, dials and watches. These are the best ones from the lot - all have working balances and some of them run. None of these run, and many have broken balances. A bit more of a challenge.

Can anyone help with this clock, it doesn't seem to be working

I have fitted new jewels and adjusted them so the lock depth is about 1/3 of their width. I had to shorten the new entry jewel. For this I hand-drilled a small hole in a piece of pegwood and ground it on a diamondplate. Worked like a charm. Can't wait to see if it will all actually work..

I agree - this looks like the pipe/tube broken off the seconds hand and remaining on the 4th wheel pivot. I don't think you would find any sort of other sheath to prevent it wobbling, since its jewel or bushing would be the pivot diameter within about +0.02mm.

HWGIKE#25 Raketa 2628H from the SU Excellent performance after the service. Dial was originally blue, those sections hidden from the light are still blue. Had to do a bit of carpet surfing when I lost a shock spring and a top jewel ~60 mins. Hands are re-lumed, the hole for the MS arbor tightened. Case and crystal cleaned, crystal also polished. I was very busy with sorting parts and I also had some pressure to move my cabinet from our living room to my office/watchmaker workshop/spare bedroom after about half a year. I though it would blend in unnoticed but my plan did not work. To be honest I also postponed this job because i knew that it would be extremely awkward and difficult to bring this thing up to the 1st floor and place it in that corner. Well it was. Had to lift it up above a radiator and slowly let it go down again into that corner while there was no space to grab it hold it properly. Just fits! Half a cm and it wouldnt.

They would be useless as fighter pilots, "there's a bogy on your six" , " where the hell is six?"

It has been 24 hrs and the clock has been running with around 400° rotations. I have put back the dial and hands and will begin the long process of regulating it.

Very disappointing, one wheel is definitely snapped in half and the hands are to long . My 2.5 years old granddaughter was over today, half the time "helping " Grandma with baking, the rest off the time "helping" grandad with his watches. The house is trashed. Hehe.

I think you might have some chocolate gumming up the drive train Richard Tom

Welcome to the forum. Are you sure the original watch didn't have a seconds hands? (Photos would help) Either way you can use a 3 hand without or get and fit a seconds hand. The 01 on the movement signifies the height of the dial train so you need to get a 515 3h H1

It looks a bit long but is it the pipe from the seconds hand?

Never try the 24 hour clock on them God knows what you will get.

I find broaches work well for this.

Tell the time. I find most cannot speak English all you get is some sort of grunt.

Here for you…

This company is serious and reliable, existing in 3rd generation, I know them personally. They are supplying wholesalers worldwide - they won‘t deal with small consumer‘s orders. But they have a shop in Mumbai, you can go there and even buy a single tool - if you happen to be nearby . Frank

Thank you so much! As a complete newbie I am still unaware of the resources to help identify parts and movements! This forum is great! Thanks all!

The serial number on the plate is valid for an Omega, circa 1897: https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/omega-watch-co/1274457

I have printed lids without threads. However, it would be easy enough to make threaded lids. If I get some free time, I will explore it.

as everyone else has suggested that's what's left the second hand. Somebody just separated the hand and if it was there was probably glued on. Or if it was there when you remove the hand then you broken off. But in a case tube is for the secondhand which is now missing.

I really like the gold dial pocket watch with the Breguet hands, top left in your third picture. I would be eying that one for a wristwatch conversion since it looks around 35mm. Very nice haul.

Determine by feeling the friction through the crown on time setting. Broaches will be soft enough to work, save it for just this task. Take it light and if you overshoot with too much hammer the broach out. Needless to say on your first attempts with this take it steady.

They do.....they find the exact point of contact where the dent is....I'm worry i damage my broaches though

Many here can't or find it difficult. Another thing that throws them is, 9.40 or twenty to ten is the same.

I agree that they do the first time or two, but then seem to stabilise - I've used mine dozens of times & still only half way through my first can of L&R 111 (which included doing a couple of mantel clock movements).

We have a generation who have never had an analog or mechanical watch. When I sell a watch on ebay, I add a note with clear instructions on how to wind it, set the time/date etc. I had someone complain a manual wind watch I'd sent them was not working. Turns out that they didn't know which way to turn the crown to wind it.

This is wrong! Never try to tighten the cannon until it is in place on the center wheel! First - the cannon will not get tightened if the thing inside has no some free play, and second - the pivot of the center wheel (especially if it is a tube) can get deformed and thus the cannon pinion will have different friction resistance depending on it's position. It may get loose in some positions and to tight in others.

Speaking of the 1001 I pulled this out and wound it up a bit. Some might say this is a Franken watch but this dial case combo goes together, just not the gold dial color with the SS bracelet and bezel. I like it and what's to complain about the numbers?

Insert a brass rod or copper wire. And nail clippers with and adjustable depth stop

It's now buttoned up. I did take a few strokes at the end of the detent with lapping paper on some pegwood. i think it smoothed out the transition nicely... The regulator favors the A side a few ticks but 290 amp 0.2 be and plus 7 DU and DD. Turned out nice if I do say so...

Morning people...i trust we are a well...good. I'm in a terrific mood and full of fun as i enter today my retirement from the physical aspect of the construction trade, sooo very happy about it after nearly 40 years of the gruelling graft in the Great British all weathers. So just a little fun topic as i sit contemplating my future.....what random bits and pieces have we collected on our bench area over the past year ?....i like to keep things pretty tidy tbh but I've just filled a little pot of stuff thats been used and abused and left laying on the worksurfaces. I think it gives a good indication of how organised we are. Dont be shy lets have a look at your random shite before you feel guilty and tidy it all up Expect questions from me as to what they were used for

Ref, your first pic, a screw to winder module had come loose and is somewhere inside the gear works. Jax case back remover tool is almost universal for opening case back. Important: Once you spot the screw, should be careful/ patient taking it out, specially if its near the hairspring. Removing the rotor helps and must be done without letting it move, cuz the screw might be stuck right underneath it . I don't think your watch needs a service as it looks new. How long has it been in use? Rgds

Today its the turn of this Tissot 2030 powered early quartz Limit International to enjoy a little of the Autumn sunshine. I've shown this one before, but it is a bit of a personal favourite, with its spectacular blue dial. It came with the original box, instructions and "hair puller" steel band. Currently I have it on a quick release navy blue soft suede strap and I must admit I'm pretty enamoured with it. I should wear it a lot more. The Tissot 2030 (from around 1977) has a rather unique setting mechanism, which confuses anybody who is used to the more conventional method, hence they are often listed as not working, spares or repair or whatever. They generally work just fine if you take the time to read the instructions. More details about the Tissot 2030 calibre here -> https://www.crazywatches.pl/tissot-seastar-2030-quartz-1977

Just an update on my Atmos project. I've disassembled the clock, cleaned and only oiled the mainspring, mainspring pivots and 2nd wheel pivots. Checked poise and beat error of pendulum. Straightened bends in the pallet fork and poised it. Checked and adjusted clearance of pallet fork and guard pin. But the clock still refuses to run. The only thing I haven't addressed is a bent banking pin. There have been so many discussions on this forum advising to leave banking pins alone that I was hesitant to straighten it. I spent almost an hour observing the escapement last night and have come to the conclusion that the bent banking pin is preventing the unlocking of the entry pallet. It is unlikely that a high-end movement like this JLC would need the banking pins to be bent. So I went for it and straightened it. The entry pallet now unlocks properly. I have left it to see if it would run overnight. That banking pin couldn't have bent on its own. ( I know I have gremlins in my house, as @oldhippy says...) But I think this was a deliberate sabotage by an unscrupulous clockmaker who probably wanted to charge an arm and a leg for servicing the clock and when the owner refused, he bent the banking pin to give the next clockmaker a hard time. What do you guys think?

I even used Old English Oil and some other wood care products, but nothing worked as well as Lemon Pledge—until it wore off again. It feels like I'm stuck in this cycle of needing it forever! source: just my own frustrating experience! It’s frustrating to rely on something that makes you feel like you're just patching it up.

Broken pivot, apparently.

Hi. It’s complete with thorns it’s defo a Hawthorn. Never eaten its fruit though I leave them for the birds. They are tough bushes used extensively by farmers for hedging a nd when grown close impenetrable.

A nice example. According to the internet.. $12.95 in 1966 is worth $125.82 today, make of that what you like. Having said that, a 2024 Timex marlin is around twice that price, but you do get a jewelled movement for that money. https://timex.com/collections/marlin-watches?country=US This is the 2024 version, very nice, but for nostalgic reasons, I still think I prefer the original, which is probably just as well, since the new one is currently out of stock.

Another $5US pick up. Interesting jump hour or "digital" watch. Not sure why the long tub on the stem. Too bad on the cracked acrylic as probably won't find a replacement. Has a BF 866 that had a tweaked hairspring, broken pivot on the escape wheel, and missing pin pallet and cock and screw. Luckily I had a donor movement that had a completely toasted hairspring that I was able to scrounge from. Also got the hairspring sorted out enough to run (still needs work). Found a new use for a jewel picker that Alex Hamilton recommended for use on the balance jewels shock spring; that brass pin that holds the hairspring in the stud, use the jewel picker to hold the pin straight out to reinsert in the stud hole!

You need to work it out with patience, it have degrade to sticky tar. Use a small nail with a bent, sharpened tip. Some heat with a lighter may help. When looking for a replacement on Cousins look under Swiss crowns, not gaskets.