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Unusual item Tom The next size punch worked a treat, just punched it into a hardwood block that was mixed in among a joblot of stuff ages ago, i kept it....because thats our main purpose is not to throw anything away ( hell i have a hard time flushing my toilet ) This stuff is definitely worth a try, it has a plastic backing to it so it's a bit more rigid....thickness of 0.1 so thinner than ally oxide paper. It still wears out but not as fast as AOP....which is different from OAP.....which I'm fast approaching

A dimple wouldn't need to exactly max the punches shape. By moving it / holding it at an angle, you can basically shape the tip the way you want. Thnx for the tip. I have been using paper superglued to feeler gauge blades. That allowed me to work wheel teeth flanks as well.

There are always idiots on youtube.

Hello and a genuine welcome. If you don't know why people took offence at your first post then perhaps you never will. Even the professionals on here are quite humble.

So it's been on the wrist! Progress made on the remaining parts too...

…my Watch O’ the Day today. This one is under monitoring as it was a mess and I just buttoned it up. A bit of a scam this one was as it was messed up in a way only someone experienced would have done… The hairspring was out of the regulator and bent in a way so the balance wheel would turn just enough so the auctioneer could write ‘ticking’. The banking pins were bent outwards about as far as they could move and it tricked me for a long time. A picture from WatchGuy solved it… …the roller was supposed to look like this but someone had replaced it with a one piece far too large to fit, though it looked fine in the watch. My mistake . I filled the wheel with the missing screws and rebent the over-coil to see what the escapement was doing, so I get to the bad roller in a roundabout way… I sourced a new balance. The hairspring needed some heavy correction and so far its holding. I may go back and repeat the service as I spent much time messing with the escapement…

The upper pivot of the balance is very suspicious. A tiny piece of dust at the balance end of the balance cock could also bring this about. Endshake on a balance should be 0.02mm-0.03mm, 0.05 is a lot. If your pivots are good, and endshake is excessive, it must be corrected.

I thought that but can't find any reference for a split stem on the UT 42. Edit Just realised the movement probably isn't in the correct orientation in the photo so this could be the front stem release.

The winding stem of a Seiko 6601A should fit according to ranfft:

@Neverenoughwatches I think it has been milled out of high density delrin/acetal Rich. Likely someone made it to make something Tom

Thanks Andy , yes i looked at cousins, some look identical to the ebay stuff and a little cheaper. If anything i would go for the Durston ones at nearly a hundred quid for a large doming block. The value stuff will be Indian, i wont buy that level of quality in this case, i need to make the stake ends as accurate as i can. What it like Tom ? I'm preparing to make something.....make a tool to repair a tool to do a job. Make a tool to make a tool to make a tool to make a tool......made by a tool Beat me to it, but I like the idea caseback ....the tip of a ball point pen is the same diameter as my smallest dome stake....a little rounder. Return tip matey....dental diamond polishing strips super glued to the angled end of a coffee stirrer for fine filing and polishing.....just made one 1x1mm to flatten the burr created from the peening of the hole. Simplest way was to use the next size stake up too that was in good shape to form the wooden cup.

Hardwood block + ballbearing ball + good solid whack = block with dimple

It arrived! There's quite a lot of work needed to clean it up I think. But it has collets that will hold all of my punches, stakes and stumps. I'm hoping it'll be good for making tools for my jeweling set (maybe, one day, even the missing face plate from my favorite? might be asking a bit much?). It's the original pultra geneva bar (without the t-slot and flat that some of the 10s came with), which I think means I have less options for using other pultra lathe tools (like the cross slides). Hopefully in time I'll find a few bits that will work. Once I've got it up and running and gotten a bit of practice without losing any eyes or anything, I'd like to have a go at: - Making the missing brass stump from my Favorite jeweling set - See if I can unblock a couple of my staking set punches - make a brass (or maybe delrin?) pusher for setting seconds hands - stretch goal: make a punch grabber for the tiny Favorite set I also wondered about getting a 3 jaw chuck and trying to cut some brass or delrin "robur" style dies for the small high-dome watch crystals I've had to fit recently (the ones I have are garbage, but also I probably just need to practice using them properly). I'd really love a draw bar with a collet taper for the rear tail stock. I have lots of thoughts about making screws and tapping threads. First things first though, I think I need an industrial size tank of wd40.

As this thread is over 5 years old and hasn’t been updated since it might be better to start a new one in the clocks section. Tom

Have you looked on Cousins? https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/blocks-cubes-punches-dapping

To each their own but count me out.

A wooden block with a small dimple and diamond paste would be my choice.

3M Fluorinert https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40045180/

- with care and small steps with a small pair of pliers. Look at where the dialfeet are and where the dial needs to go, then you know which way to bend it. - Yes, that is the sensible thing to do imo.

Hi, welcome Manny. I don't think everyone is mad at you. I don't even think anyone is mad at you. Most of us are past the age where we get riled up easily. Might be a hormonal thing. Differing opinions do happen occasionally but we just agree to disagree. I think WRT is one of the friendliest watch forums around. I keep reading about "the other forum" where newbies are not welcomed. But honestly, I don't know which forum they are referring to. ( It's not us. ) So go ahead and post about anything. Except sensitive things like politics, religion, etc. You know what I mean, right? Keep calm and keep wrecking watches!

Split stem just screws into the crown on the replacement. Edit Or there's this but it looks a lot shorter than yours and I've no validity for this supplier. https://www.watchmaterial.com/omega-deville-crown-gold-color-with-female-stem-166-020/

Welcome from USA…and very nice Seamaster!

Well new mainspring, crystal, and setting lever spring and she is near perfect. Now I need a new split stem crown. Old one lost the washer that held the seal in and now everything is falling out. Can anyone please help me out with a part number?

You say arrogant but I say practical. I'm not belittling anyone's opinion, and I qualified my remarks by saying that I understand the outlook. Many of the responses seem kneejerk and uninformed. I've done that too! So I'm no better. I looked around and this is a really cool site. I think it's important to respond to things when they are off the mark. In a polite way, of course. No one (generally) is on any forum with expressed aim of belittling anyone else. Although, I see that on audio forums a lot. BUT ANYWAY... Thank you for approving. I think that when well done, and it's a pain in the ass get right, oil-filling makes for a really cool modification to a low-budget quartz watch. Most people like repairing watches because they enjoy tinkering and have a reverence for mechanical things. It would be a shame if this really fun mod was avoided because it's unusual and if you've never done it, it seems insane. I am a computer geek and about 10 years ago, I built an entire computer in an aquarium, then filled that aquarium with mineral oil. I obviously used a bunch of parts I was never gonna use again and I expected the whole thing to basically not work. But it DID work. It was stupid, and offered no advantages worth the effort and mess, but it worked. So when I heard about oil filling a watch, I grabbed some mineral oil, and filled up a $5 Darth Vader no-name watch and darn that thing looked cool! AND KEPT RUNNING. So, would I do this to a Speedmaster or Daytona? Hell no. Would I do this to a used (or even new) G-Shock? Absolutely. Don't poo-poo it until you've tried it.

Hi Monty and welcome to the WRT forum. Standard advice is to start with cheap pocket watches. Learn names of the parts, ask questions, plenty of your new friends here to work with you fix your watch. Buying two pieces of the same calib saves $ & £. Rgds

Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.

You certainly haven't wasted my time I enjoy helping. The best clock oil is Windles Clock Oil and it isn't expensive.