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Chucked up and ready to go . A quick touch up to graver and we're off Absolutely no way i can do this under a loupe....not today anyway...this difficulty proves to me the shear skill of anyone that can work on pieces dimensionally under 2mm using only a loupe. The added complication that the bush needs a finishing height of 0.3 is not helping.....why would it... ridiculously stupid barrel arbor bearing design with an insanely thin shoulder.....not happy.....not happy at all..... I need a different plan, the maximum diameter of the bush has to 1mm and even that risks breaking out of the side of the plate...think I'm pretty much stuck just now. At least the lathe got an airing

And I was thinking it isn't too bad. Looks like the hole in the top plate needs closing a touch to reduce side shake, and pressed in a tad to reduce end shake.

I use something like these but occasionally have to revert to the punches and hammer.

There's often a bit of stiction before they start to move, but then should push out quite easily. I have some of these cheap punches. I start the pins moving by tapping them with a light hammer

HWGIKE#28 MST471 Roamer Automatic Full service, nice performance. Came without the stem, crown and all parts for the automatic work. Crown and stem were replaced but we still need all parts for the automatic work. New MS, new glass, stainless steel case polished and a bit renewed. Rising Sun MS winder was used to place the MS as I could not push the new MS directly into the barrel from its retaining ring, it was just too big, the ring in diameter. New lume on hands and dial.

Yours is a Denison Star case so not real Gold and therefore no Hallmarks. With the 662 Movement I'd still put it at late 20s or early 30s. Edit Cameron & Cuss were just the retailer and it's common practice to put the retailers name on the dial.

Well I am very pleasantly surprised. The 3am communications in imperfect English were not indicative of a ruse. I got 3 watches, all runners, with beautifully hand painted dials. The Statue of Liberty is missing a caseback and is a very thin model, possibly a Luch slim. I'll see if I can find a replacement case but I'm excited about these. The cosmonaut is a total surprise, as it was not visible in photos.

Ok I wanted to publish my findings as I ended up making a "commercial" solution yesterday and used it to clean a movement. I measured using a scale to dial in the percentages accurately. My recipes are as follows: SwissSeiko's 111 Ammoniated Cleaning Solution 65% Mineral Spirits(Klean Strip) - Pretty standard 20% Light Naphtha(Klean Strip) - I think this is what we all have access to, but it has the same carbon atoms as the L&R 111. Dark Naphtha has more carbon, and has a much higher boiling point, which decreases its volatility at the temps and times we are using. 5% Store bought concentrated Ammonia(Ace Hardware). This is slightly less potent that pure ammonia, but it is essentially ammonium hydroxide(with slightly less ammonia per weight), which L&R calls for. 5% Kirkland Dish Soap - This one is interesting as its taking the place of Oleic Acids in L&R's formula. It has the amino acids were looking for, but with additional degreasers, and a scent that helps cover the ammonia smell. 5% IPA 99% - This takes the place of the amino alcohol in their solution, of which has propylene oxide, which i'm not sure citizens have access to, Its very toxic. It is used as a solubilizer. SwissSeiko's #3 Watch Rinse 80% Mineral Spirits(Klean Strip) 20% Light Naphtha(Klean Strip) This one is very simple and works very well And there you have it. A commercial quality cleaning solution that can all be purchased at your local hardware store, for relatively cheap. I think if you had to buy it all at once, it would be around $65, but you could make nearly 2 gallons of it. I did a lot of research on chemical properties to try and match the medical grade chemicals they are using, but with easy availability. Obviously you need to be careful when handling chemicals, and you need to have a vast understanding of chemical reactions before you jump into making your own solution. I pulled the MSDS of all of these chemicals to make sure I understood their makeup, and to eliminate any dangerous reactions. The results are very good. It has exceeded my expectations as a home brew concoction. Parts come out brighter than when I was using Liquinox, and that's due to the ammonia. I'm not quite ready to give up my Liquinox, but its handy to have an additional non-water based cleaning solution that works well, particularly for vintage movements, which I mostly service. Don't sue my L&R, this info is all public on your website.

I assume you mean balance completes in other words balance plus hairspring. then how is the balance attached to the bridge conveniently don't show any pictures the balance bridge. yes how exactly does the cylinder watch produce the same sounds as a lever escapement when it's operating principle is entirely different? here's a snippet out of the much older timing machine manual where it explains that it does not sound like a lever escapement. Plus as you can see the image doesn't even look like a lever escapement either.

Is it possible that the timegrapher can’t lock on properly because it’s a cylinder escapement? It’s got to sound a lot different than a Swiss lever escapement. Tom

Need more info to help. What's the movement? Are you sure it's the correct balance? What else did you replace? What's the amplitude?

I use my jeweling tool to set hands. The micrometer adjustment makes it very accurate

Hahaha, off with his head!

I can no longer edit my above post, showing how to adjust barrel end and side shake. I wanted to add a reference - the pics are from Unit 9A of the Joseph Bulova School of Watch Making. Joseph Bulova School of Watch Making - Unit 9a.pdf You can download all the units from https://mybulova.com/vintage-bulova-catalogs

These look like they could be tube and pin.

Thanks for the detective work! These do appear to be the same movement: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183525718464 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387362054913 Albeit the one I have has a jeweled setting for the center wheel (so 17 jewels rather than 15).

@GPrideaux Would be better if it was in a fixed clamp so could see it better. Maybe what I'm seeing isn't as bad as it seems due to the whole thing moving around.

For me that's way too much play.

I've moved it for you.

As Kalle says Andy....the metal clip is the extension of the mic. I often do put the crown into the recess of the plastic clamp which then places the mic at the escapement end of the movement. Tbh i dont think the difference is that great, though i have had watches that have given various readings when positioned differently in the clamp.

If the tool is inserted in the side as shown in your last photo then they will just push out although I'm not sure if that tool will be enough.

I would suggest you need the proper movement holders - you need the movement absolutely flat. I bought a cheap hand press where I have to use the regular Bergeon 4040 holder. As movements rarely sit absolutely flat, I decided it was pointless and stopped using it. I prefer to hand hold the movement holder under the microscope, and use hand pushers. That way I can see the hands are sat squarely and can set the correct depth precisely. The other problem I found with the press was that it was fiddly to get the correct depth - checking under the microscope, back to the press, repeat etc

On a 'quality' watch like Omega, most would aim for 270° amplitude or more (the last 620 I serviced I got 295°). For a beginner, I would say aim for 240°+. It's not so easy on small ladies watches like this, as the small size means that any imperfections have a bigger effect. Also watches with smaller balances are generally less accurate. A drop in amplitude from horizontal to vertical position of about 40° is expected. DU and CD positions look great, but the -32s/day looks to be Crown Right : which is not a position the watch is usually in. What does it look like Crown Left (one of the test positions)? For the 620, Omega don't show an initial amplitude when wound, but list a required amplitude after 24h as 160° (which is enough to send many who post here in to shock). It also shows the Delta 0h as 40s. This is the difference between the lowest and highest values in the positions tested, which are 3 for your watch : DU, DD, Crown Left.

Ebosa? Searching for photos of an Ebosa 25 results in several very different looking movements, however some other Ebosa movements are listed in 17jewels, here: https://17jewels.info/movements/e/ebosa/ These appear to be the most likely to be the actual movement? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183525718464 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387362054913

Thank you for this! I couldn’t find my movement’s LA on ranftt so I tried to determine manually with a sharpie etc. But 52 sounds about right. I’m going to disassemble, re clean, check carefully while cleaning, test function groups while reassembling, and be more precise with lubrication to his time around. I’ll report back after.

Welcome to the forum. While not specifically for the 8300, there are general instructions at https://www.gucci.com/documents/timeless/Standard_Instructions_for_use_EN-2017.pdf and https://www.manualslib.com/manual/754201/Gucci-Standard-Watches.html?page=8#manual that may be useful.

No i can't bring myself to do that, it's "who dares wins" time again....I'll go get a crow bar to prise my distressed lathe out of its sleeping quarters

@Neverenoughwatches, yea, I wish I ahd any idea where thia guy is. Don't even know the country. ANYWAY, I decided to move on with my life and put it in the category "lessons learnt". There's no point in dwelling. After a lot of back-and-forth thinking, and considering above Vibrasonics, the Indian Pearl, DIY builds, a half-functional Elma RM90, a Elma Super Automat and Nestromo machines... I was super lucky that a Elma Super Elite came on the local market (Facebook marketplace) yesterday. So back to what I originally wanted. I picked it up today and it's in excellent condition. Cost me 550 CHF / 590 EUR.

The case is a Dennison Star which is their lowest grade of case and is Gold Filled as detailed in the link below. https://www.timewornwatches.co.uk/guides/the-dennison-watch-case-company/ The movement is after 1928 so quite a few years after Rolex started. Here's a couple of examples from the late 20s with 9ct Gold cases. https://www.dawsonsauctions.co.uk/auction/lot/263-a-camerer-cuss--co-double-signed-rolex/?lot=79671&sd=1 https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29889/lot/15/camerer-cuss-and-co-186-uxbridge-road-london-a-9k-gold-keyless-wind-open-face-pocket-watch-birmingham-hallmark-for-1926/

Basically because Rolex wasn’t the behemoth it has become at that time, they were just trying to get recognition and make sales. Wildorf was a great salesman and understood marketing way beyond his time. They made(put together) good watches that were reliable, that is what the much vaunted reputation was built on, affordable watches that would be accurate and affordable. Tom

Judging from the amplitude alone: you have not worked on/restored the movement yet? I cannot tell you what the general consensus on "acceptable" is, but my gut feeling is that these readings won't be. Depending on the movement, I try to get the amplitude at least high in the 200's and get the positional errors below 10s if I can. But I'm sure there are a lot of other opinions here..

Part of the problem could be incorrect positioning in the holder along with the fact it looks like you're changing it's position between the different orientations. Crown should be located in the black clip for all orientations.

I've been sitting on an Autocrat for over a year, it needs a balance staff after I replaced some jewels but the one I installed initially is incorrect and I have not returned to it. Finally a worthy contribution: $10 US, a "Splendor" skin diver in a monobloc case. I was hoping for an EB8800 movement, but could tell by the slow calendar change action that isn't it. I also assumed a 2 piece stem and firmly pulled a 1 piece stem right out! But apparently this is by design? It reinserts and still works correctly. Also expected a tension ring crystal I would have to blow out, but no it is a basic crystal removable with a lift tool. The dial is pretty marked up unfortunately, and the hands don't look great. The movement I expected was a Baumgartner 866, but I'm not sure yet what this thing is. Edit: Ah, the movement must be a Brac 500 series something or other.

Hope you have rcd protection behind that cable. You'll get a belt but not enough to kill you, unless you're wearing a pacemaker.

Happy that it's working but getting it right and it being safe are different things. Each metal part should have its own earth as currently if there's a short at the motor for example and the case becomes live the only path to earth would be you when you touch it.

It's impossible to answer without more information, so I have some questions for you. Did you fully wind the watch to do this measurement? Which position is the watch in? Did you measure the other positions? Did you do timegrapher readings before working on the watch? What were the results? You installed a barrel arbor jewel set. Not a simple job for a novice. Well done! Was it the correct Seiko part for this movement, from a reliable source? Were the jewels installed correctly, clean and undamaged? How much endshake does the barrel arbor have now?

The endshake of the balance is too much. You need a little, but not too much. I try to imagine the correct amount as being about the pivot thickness. The arbor to barrel end shake - you need a little, but not so much that the barrel can hit anything. To reduce it - It's also important to check the sideshake in the barrel and bridge. These are things I always do. Too much at the bridge, the hole can be closed using a rounded punch as shown below (then use a smoothing broach).

I just bought a 7750 case (and dial, hands, even TOP grade ETA movement) from a seller on eBay out of Switzerland. Quality seems good to me. For all I know, the cases are made in China, but half the Swiss watch manufacturing comes from China anyway. Who cares if the quality is there? He has a few options. The seller is decent to deal with as well. My shipment was badly abused en route, and the movements were damaged. The 7750 was crushed into the plastic movement case such that the rotor was jammed into the top and couldn't be removed without ultimately bending the rotor a bit. He not only sent me replacements (I returned the first pair), but he selected an especially tight movement that deep into chronometer spec territory (+/-1.5s/d). https://www.ebay.com/str/swissmadetime/CASES-GEHAUSE/_i.html?store_cat=748119011

I adjusted the depth of the oscillating pinion, and I think I have it right. The dog bone spring I hadn't thought of I think now I'm more familiar with the movement and how it works I might strip down the Chronograph module, clean it all again, and re-build. Maybe get it running better second time round.

Hello all, So for my birthday, I asked my wife for a stereo-microscope (actually, I told her exactly which one I wanted). I've read many times (and seen this video of Alex https://youtu.be/tAtATqwI5A4?si=NlU3TwHFBwpDKitw) that a good stereo microscope would be a "game changer". I resisted for the longest time, and ended up buying a staking set, jewelling set, glass press... heck, even a Jacot tool. But now I made the jump. And OH MY GOODNESS, it is so much more amazing and "game changing" than I ever imagined. I go the Amscope SM-3TP (https://amscope.com/products/c-sm-3tp-hd), with light ring and 0.5 Barlow lens. It delivers the perfect amount of magnification and working distance. (Please note that the 3TP version allows you to use full stereo vision while using the camera port at the same time. The 3T version used by Alex (see video link about) will force you to either use stereo-vision for your eyes and NOT use the camera port at all, OR use the camera port but only have mono-vision on your eyes. The camera port and the left eyepiece share the same "tunnel" and there's a lever that you pull/push to decide which one is active. I definitely recommend paying 20 bucks more to get the 3TP.) I think that one really needs to experience a stereo microscope like this to fully appreciate how incredible it is. Pictures (which are two-dimensional) will never do it justice. To see three-dimensionally is SOOOOO useful. I've never oiled a pallet stone with such perfect accuracy and ease. And I can see in perfect clarity how the drop of oil spreads over the next 3-5 escape wheel teeth. Until I apply another perfect drop in the perfect spot. And INSPECTION: my goodness. You'll find the tiniest speck of dust or debris with ease. Honestly, I'm over the moon with this new acquisition. After using it for 3 days, I can't even imaging how I lived without it.

Welcome to the forum Marcelo. Enjoy.

Welcome to WRT forum Marcelo .

Greetings Marcelo! You might want to investigate Mark's courseware and his YT channel. I think you'll find the discussion here helpful.