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@KneboIf the knocking starts early, no amount of HP1300 on the pallet fork pivots or anywhere else will make much difference. What I mean by knocking early, is when the movement knocks way before getting to full wind. So, if a movement just knocks for the first five to ten minutes after reaching full wind, it is knocking late and if the movement knocks between half to three quarters wind, then it knocks early. A late knocking movement can have the amplitude dropped by greasing the pallet fork pivots and maybe every other pivot with HP 1300. But if the movement starts to knock around three quarters wind, no amount of grease is going to alleviate that in my experience. Some vintage watches I work on such as JLC's can knock with the mainspring that is meant for it, so a weaker spring needs using. Don't hold onto the idea that because the mainspring is apparently the correct size that it works. It isn't always the case. I think this is a gift to you! Now you need to be able to find out what spring you need and what works to the optimum. Find out at what point the spring knocks. With no power on the watch, wind the movement to full wind and count the turns of the mainspring (count how many turns of the ratchet wheel), then take the power off and wind the movement on the timegrapher and see how many turns until knocking occurs. This gives me an indication if the mainspring is way over strength or just a tad. If the spring knocks at half wind, then it is way over strength and may need to come down at least 0.01 mm in thickness, maybe more. If the movement knocks very close to full wind, you may want to bring the spring down half a strength by 0.005 mm Personally, I would change the spring rather than resetting the escapement, but that's just my personal choice. Pity it doesn't have a sweep second pinion and brake spring, as setting the spring tighter will reduce quite a lot of amplitude. I use that in vintage Rolex's to remove any knocking issues

I tried to find that Omega doc in French, as it is in English I have no idea what they mean by bridle.

For what it's worth, D5 on the pallet fork pivots robbed around 30 degrees of amplitude on an ETA 2472 I worked on a while ago. I also played with D5 on the balance pivots which had less of an effect. I'm wearing that particular watch right now and it's at ~340 degrees in the horizontal positions today compared to ~300 degrees 2 years ago, so this migth not be a viable long-term solution. Your mileage may vary.

I like this idea because it's easy and unlikely to cause any harm, right? (if anything, further prevent wear on the pivots). And it's easy/accessible. If it's even in the Omega instructions (thanks for sharing that), it can't be too bad, right? Changing the pallet stone depth or banking pins is quite a "serious" intervention...

If possible I would put in a weaker mainspring as first choice. But that's not always possible, so yes, I would adjust the escapement. In the event of not enough amplitude, I would first see if there is any room to move in the pallet stones/close the bankings. That's considering everything else is in top shape. A stronger mainspring would be a the last resort.

I would open the banking pins slightly to increase total lock. If it has solid bankings, move the pallet stones out about 0.005mm.

It's a different case though with Chronograph tubes don't you think?

I think all you can do is put it to one side until you've got other test equipment or can find an alternative clamp with the correct battery.

My thoughts also that it would thin out over time with so much quick movement from the pallet fork. D5 is more designed for slow revolutions. As far as i can figure the pallet fork would be the fastest moving component in a watch.

The key words there are "up to". You usually work zoomed out such that you're working at around 3.5X or so. Sounds like NEW may even have a 0.35X Barlow for that sort of working distance. Also, he's probably pretty tall, or has some special seating/work surface situation going on. That one pictured is a Russian model that seems to be fairly commonly available in the UK for inexpensive. Can't get them here, and shipping cost negates the price attractiveness. What you want to find, first and foremost, is a reasonable amount of magnification with the most critical figure being how little you can get. Second, and almost as important (some people use scopes for inspecting only, and don't work with them), is working distance. That's mostly in the Barlow lens where less than 1X gives you more working distance at the cost of a reduction in magnification. Third most critical, unless you happen to find something that's just jam packed with all the accessories, is the ability to get parts like eyepieces and Barlow lenses. Read through the Stereo Microscope thread. It's worth the education. Toward the end, there are a number of links and such to various scopes that are all pretty much the same thing white labeled under different brand names. Familiarize yourself with the form factor of that, and you'll start seeing them everywhere. Can't say you'll find a used one pop up for cheap in Australia, but it'll give you a clue for what to look out for.

Apologies yes you're correct screwing the focus knobs in together tightens up the focusing operations, I discovered it by accident about a year ago when i noticed the head drifting down when viewkng. If you can't get the original parts I'm sure you could have them made up. When you have it all fixed you will love it, its a great piece of kit with super quality optics, I was guessing at around the 1960s. The stand and boom arm are so well made I sometimes wheel mine around the room to where ever I'm working.

Yes and if you look at the clips you'll see the AS Balance is only suitable for Non Incabloc version.

A common microscope setup is the Amscope, with 10X eyepieces and 0.5X Barlow lens. Giving up to 22.5X magnification and 170mm working depth. You need at least about 150mm working depth.

I've just re-read it, and now I have doubts. I took it to mean the pallet pivots, as I have seen this advice elsewhere. It says "Replace the lubrication on the bridle facing the dial". I assumed "bridle" was a mis-translation and meant pallet. But, it says "Replace", when you normally would not oil pallet pivots. Could it mean balance jewels? I've searched through my Omega service sheets and can find no reference to "bridle".

Tried that. Even my older version of my phone did better than this one. Yep. I had forgotten to mention Lorsa. I looked at the spec sheet and I tell ya, under microscope it doesn't look like it would be a pleasant one. Neverenoughwatches had tried to go deep on one of these and remarked that it was darn near impossible and basically an "enter at your own risk" kind of deal. I decided not to attempt it.

This is the adjustment for the focusing play, when this knob isn't tight the head drifts down when you're looking through the eyepieces. The flip lenses are the same as mine,and with the 12.5 eyepieces so that should in therory provide a range of 7.5x to 50x . Though there is another lens at the bottom which is probably a barlow that quotes f-200, so not entirely sure how that all equates. But with the 6 objective I get 50mm field of view. I've left mine well alone, whatever the debris was stopped after a couple of days use and it hasn't affected how it works. The only issue I do have is the light has 3 brightness settings, anything above the lowest setting and the halogen bulb gets head very hot until i get around to changing the bulb out for an led. The bulb has an odd fitting .

I know the one that you removed and trashed Knebo may not have been the original, but how does the size compare to these two ? I also had questions H, thinking about how folk sometimes move banking pins as a lazy/not understanding alternative to moving pallet stones. I decided not to ask having assumed Nicklesilver would suggest that the escapement's safety would be assessed first before moving the banking pins .

This is an 899 not an 889?

I just joined the forum. This is a great walkthrough. Thanks for making this.

I think I have eight WW lathes and one Sherline. Two were inherited. Then a Levin with collet-holding tailstock and Levin cross slide and Levin 4-jaw chuck appeared on FB marketplace. The guy got it from his grandfather. Had no idea the value. Needed to make a truck payment. Got it for $300. That makes three. The problem with the Levin was that it had a long bed...maybe 18" so I wanted a typical WW bed. Ended up buying two more Levins that had only the headstock and bed. It was an error on my part. Same guy was selling both and the delta time between them on Ebay was short. I wanted to get at least one but ended up with both. That makes five. Then I was playing around on another auction site and ended up with a complete Paulson for $119. As I recall, I was expecting not to win, but had put a bid in to track the value. That makes six. Then some guy on FB marketplace advertised "clockmakers tools." He had rented a bay at a small airport and all this stuff was in it. He had no idea. Anyway, it had a Moseley lathe (I think) and a FULL SET OF LEVIN COLLETS, along with a bergeon bushing tool with lots of bushings and some other stuff (including a grandfather clock which is now running at home). All that for $500. Then I recently bought out a deceases watchmaker for $1200. Got another lathe with that. That makes eight. I dont need them all...obviously. My main lathe is the first Levin. One lathe at home is dedicated to sharpening. One lathe at this watch shop is also dedicated to sharpening. A 2020 Nitro Z18 Bass boat with a 150 horse Mercury motor is selling for $38,999 right now in Abiline, TX. I got less money into this little hobby...but not by much. I do enjoy fishing.

Yes I agree.

Maybe, but if they are Selitta branded they are swiss specified and swiss quality controlled.

Hi, new forum member here, The discussion seems to have died, but I went ahead and bought one of these Hungarian contraptions. My verdict is that you get what you pay for. It's not brilliant, but a good start. The frame is solid if a bit light. I had to do a few modifications and I will still do a few more once I get around to it. The main issue was some serious wobble on the main shaft when adjusting it horizontally. Also the bearing fit was pretty loose. I made new tighter bushings, changed the entire horizontal adjustment system and replaced the shaft with a hardened precision ground shaft. Also the handle was pretty bad so I made a better one. I have contacted the maker about these mods so who knows if they'll change the machine in the future. I shot a few videos as well but I'll have to upload them somewhere if there's any interest.

I think I've seen that before, quite simple really.... when the inner coil has already been opened up. Maybe we should all do it like this in future lol. So you can't beat a good experiment when a point needs to be made lol. I tried this on a dozen or so barrel assemblies and to be fair 50% of the arbors did come out surprisingly well. That being said they were not particularly tight fitting to begin with. The remainder either did not want to come out without some force or bent the inner coil when I exercised it. One barrel did decide to explode the mainspring out when i lifted the barrel off of the staking block . Now who wants to help me put this lot back together ....come on hands up people. The moral of this story is....dont believe everything you see on YouTube

Just made a program to download all issues I could find of the AWCI Horological Times to my OneDrive. I hope I didn't do anything illegal, but I'd be happy to remove the files in case I did. Enjoy! https://1drv.ms/f/s!AnVrKJ9agkNWkfFk72cqE5ISkNJ78A?e=mYbidJ

From a quick bit of research, that watch appears to have an Oris 649 movement which is based on the ETA 2836-2 https://watchbase.com/oris/caliber/oris-649 Stems for the ETA branded version are readily available from about £3 upwards, If you want to compare the movement in your to that, the ETA service info is here: https://www.cousinsuk.com/pdf/categories/29_eta2801.2-eta2836.2.pdf and a service walkthrough by VWatchie here: For the crown & tube, it's probably secondhand markets. There are some Oris crowns and a couple of tube on Chrono24, if by chance anything matches? https://www.chrono24.co.uk/search/index.htm?accessoryTypes=&dosearch=true&query=Oris+Big+Crown&searchexplain=1&showpage=3&watchTypes=Z

Balance arrived, except it didn't because the chancer selling it didn't bother to actually put it in the parcel. Ridiculous. Vent over!