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Not sacrilegious at all. Repurposing redundant objects I always consider a good thing , somthing that may well have been put in the tip has another useful life. May I suggest maintaining the horological theme use it for displaying your watch collection . Somewhat fitting for the old clock case.

Firstly i think you need calm down, and secondly you need to understand that Andy is trying to help you. A picture tells a thousand words, supplying us with a photo explains more than you can tell and is standard practice. I can't ever remember anyone arguing over it.

I suggest if you don't like a simple response from someone trying to offer help then you go elsewhere.

Unless of historical importance or very expensive, I'm in favour of Upcycling. Furniture and watches included.

A fellow human being would realise, OK, I'm new here, asking more experienced members for help. Maybe it would be a good idea to provide them what they are asking for, so that they can understand the problem better. After all's said and done, you might be disappointed with the help we can offer, but don't lash out because the first answer you get isn't the easy solution you were expecting.

I definitely haven’t drilled a hole in a strap of any kind before and doubt it can be done, these are made during the moulding process. people are asking for photos so they can see what you are dealing with and if they can figure out a way to help you. you have been treated politely and with respect, unlike your response here. I suggest you take a deep breath and try to moderate your frustration talking to us here. regards Tom

Workshop you would laugh if you could see what I have in my small (10'x9') room. This is behind me. Yes, that's a dryer (the kitchen is too small) - imagine the dust! But it's a useful work surface - I put a wood board on top, the rotary drill and abrasives are in the plastic boxes above, and within a minute I'm polishing away. Ooh err missus - would that be with oil

Thought I had included a pic of the front.

As I don't have a workshop, getting all the tools out's always a bit of a hassle, so I use a toothpick with some Polinum Polishing Compound and do it by hand. The Polinum is highly efficient, so it doesn't take long and is an easy process. I think you are right about that, as I do it the opposite way. That is, I turn it clockwise and then resist the broach going out by pushing it back into the hole. I have a feeling there's an underlying meaning to what you're saying, but no matter how I try, I can't quite grasp it. Maybe it’ll make sense when I’m a bit older. Anyway, I apply a thin honing oil to the hole. Same oil I use with my Jacot lathe. I think it's important in order to transport away the metal residue from the hole.

What's the intended use? In college, I repurposed an upright grand piano into a bar. Complete with wine glass racks, bottle racks, shelving, and a flip top for storage of bar tools. The only parts used that didn't come from the piano to begin with was paint and some track lighting that went behind the wine glasses. Eventually got tired of moving it around between apartments, and sold it for a small fortune.

Diameter and photos of the keyless works required.

Thats not enough. Is this the battery that it left the repar shop with. Try a new silver oxide battery. If it left the shop with this battery, you've assumed they put in a new one...it might not be ! besides that it's crap. Pop it out, is the bottom of it bulging , use a knife blade as straight edge if you're not sure. Check the simplest things first , then move on.

Being a joiner , I shudder at some of the things people do to old furniture. An example my sister wants my french polished Elm Ercol table and chairs that was bought by my parents when I was born....and paint it !!!. Saying that re-purposing can bring an unused unwanted piece back up life. What you've done Andy looks great . It depends entirely what you are covering over, once done there's no going back.

So. Fit attained. Next step is to try mimicking OE. A challenge, but only caused by the 3D-printing-process involved. Response from Seiko dealer received. A whiny 'we can't help you', likely caused by them not having sold me the watch. I think they don't care. Next step in that direction is to address the european Seiko office.

A lot of questions have been answered.....but we haven't seen a picture of what you're looking at yet

Photos are required.

I posted about this on NAWCC but thought I would give the clock folks over something to see. This clock came in a beautiful marble case, but the movement is a cheesy open-spring pin-lever design. I cleaned it (the efficient way), and it would not run at all. I realized that the spring was giving almost no power to the train. I was sure it was a weak mainspring. Last year, I donated to the local watch and clock museum by buying everything that came up for auction at the local guild meeting. I dropped $450 for a good cause. Part of the haul was a bag of mainsprings for clocks. LOL...what will I ever do with them. Today, I fished out a mongo spring that would fit in this clock. The balance wheel took off like a rocket. I had to collect it in the yard next door . Well, I decided it was too strong, so I dug through the bag again and found something more appropriate. The clock is running and keeping time so far.

No! Naptha is not paint thinner! Naptha is lighter fuel, like Ronsonol or Zippo. It's a good degreaser while being relatively safe on plastics. Paint thinner is xylene. A strong solvent that can damage many types of plastics and finishes.

Grok is an AI search tool. Like Chatgpt. I notice the anomaly with the leather punch suggestion. Having fun with the guy.

Who's Grok and does he/she show how this is done as I can't see how a leather punch would go through s 20mm wide strap.

No, I have never drilled a hole for spring bars through a rubber strap before. There...done.

JD Richard has been posting a lot on Linkedin but not about watches. I will play along. I think I am the most famous...but not on youtube and not in the field of horology. So there!

Interesting video he didn't get the history quite right and I learned something new So what did I learn new well at about six minutes and 30 seconds I learned something interesting which I didn't realize you would normally ever have to do? Apparently you can use a razor blade to split the regulator pins the at the hairspring out and then of course you do have to remember to close it again. Which is quite fast dating because I don't actually think you're supposed to be doing this at all.

Good find. This movement is a Swiss ETA 2472 selfwinder, which Hamilton has rebranded with it's own calib designation. Go on to Dr ranfft site to see all variants of the family this calib belongs to. Though there probably is a walkthrough on same or its variants calibers posted on WRT, yet for ready reference take lots of pictures as you disassemble. Regs

So you didn't find this then? http://www.hamiltonchronicles.com/2018/02/there-are-66-dateline-models-in.html Edit And this from the same site. http://www.hamiltonchronicles.com/2017/02/1966-mystery-watch.html Also not sure what you mean about the dial as every other A-279 I've seen has the same dial?

And how it looked previously…

Being from Leeds is a noteworthy addition to your fortè Richard, and also knowing moi.

And you have a ready supply of spring wire! Tom

Well there’s Mark to start, Mike from “my retro watches”, Marshall from “wristwatch revival “ those are probably the most famous folks.Adam you have mentioned, should also mention “berlintime” too as a member here. Also Dell and Jon though not as prolific as the others have some good stuff and deserve some more subs. Tom

We don't see much of Adam from weekend watch repair or jdrichard anymore. Not sure who else we have Tom. Oh yeah Mark.....we don't see much of him either

Nothing like a bit of lube to help things along Tom

This maybe sacrilege to some but while things are quiet at work I decided to turn an old clock case into a display cabinet. This is phase 1 with just a little more touching up required.

I take it, you're not a fan.

While we’re waiting for the keyless I will take a moment to admire that click spring…. A Schild and Arogno did them like that for their trenchies…could it be?

When the timing machine showed greater than 300 Visually what did the balance wheel look like? In other words didn't really look like it was going greater than 300? As the only thing you supposedly touched was the balance wheel look carefully at the balance wheel. See if hairspring is flat and whether it's touching the balance arms etc.

Very important not to assume and always double check. I like this the word never that's an absolute absolutely never except sometimes they do. It depends upon a whole variety of things. It really would be nice though if it never happened but unfortunately it does. This by the way is really confusing I don't suppose we can get a picture? I may swipe a picture off the Internet and maybe you can explain help it with my confusion? Notice I put a little mark next to a screw? As I said your quote is really confusing normally when the balance bridge is upside down to place the entire balance wheel onto the bridge and get the stud to go back into its whole and you tighten the screw then the stud will stay in place they could flip it over and put in the watch. So I don't understand it doesn't stay in place and why are you pushing so hard? We really do need pictures and a better description Normally on a etachron you would not remove the stud at least for cleaning it only be removing it if you're replacing the entire balance assembly? We really need pictures and better descriptions of exactly what you're trying to do and exactly how you're trying to assemble your balance system?

Hi As said first change the battery for the silver oxide type, I personally use. Renata. Then if that does not work k try the line release to spin up the movement and maybe release any sticky oil. The watchmaker maybe did not check the Movement before fitting. The methodology is to put a little naphtha on the exposed jewel tips then spin up. Line release/pulse checkers can be found on eBay for around £30 . I am surprised the Ronda movement failed after such a short time, they are fitted to many fashion watches along with Miyota and regarded as repairable. A popular workhorse.

I have a large selection of the cheap batteries, I use them to see if the watch is working or if I can fix it. If so, I order the correct ones.

As Hector has told you, the battery in it is a cheap unreliable one. Before you think about changing the movement, try fitting a better quality battery. Silver oxide is the norm you often find in a new watch, usually the brand Renata. If I remember correctly Energiser batteries come on top in best battery reviews.

LRxxx batteries should never be used in watches. They are alkaline batteries and very prone to leakage.

Welcome to the forum. I presume you've tried a replacement battery. Swapping the movement for a mechanical would be a difficult process. Before ordering a replacement movement you need to be aware that there are 5 variants which position the hands at different heights.

Welcome to the forum. We need to see photos of the watch along with the strap.

If you watch this video, the spring should stay within the regulator if the spring is not damaged. Even on really vintage movements where the regulator is just two brass pins, the hairspring never comes out of the regulator. Are you sure your hairspring has not become coned? Could you post some photos. If you are still worried that the hairspring will slip out, move the regulator arm as close to the stud carrier as possible.

25 & 26 go here. I take if you've got the cover plate? 31 & 32 are the click and spring for the keyless works. Edit Just realised that 25 & 26 are also part of the keyless works but the 26 spring is the correct shape. This is from the AS 1916 parts list which looks like the base calibre.

What other parts have you got apart from what's in these photos? Edit I presume the parts you're looking for are the set lever (25) and set lever spring (26), but can't find anything at all for yours. These details are from an 11ANAC which may work

Use cheap emery sticks, half-round and flat, starting at about 220 grit. Hold the case firm in a vice between wood or plasic, best are those that you can swivel to all positions. Frank N.B. To strip the chrome, put the case for few minutes into hydrochloric acid. If it is still there after 30 minutes, it is most probably nickel.

Success. I just received the clock from across the pond where it was expertly repaired by forum member known as MikeEll. After I so disastrously mangled the gears by failing to release the mainspring tension, this one was a goner. With forum help I attempted to straighten out several gear teeth only completely to break off a tooth. Mike came to my aid and we have been working together for about two months. The clock is absolutely beautiful and will be passed down to my grandson as coming finally from his great, great, great uncle. But now I intend to keep it a lot longer than originally planned. Thank you so much Mike for your expert work and willingness to help me out. Pic attached. (I love this forum.)

I always rotate the regulator pins as far away from the stud as possible while installing the balance/hairspring. That gives more flexibility to manipulate the hairspring without risking bending it.

On movements with overcoil hairsprings there won't be a "boot", just the two pins. The Bulova 10BC has an overcoil, as I would imagine a vintage Hamilton would. Most of the time the spring stays in; if it doesn't it's simple enough to get back in place, just double check the spring is flat and centered.

This little phoenix may just be rising from the ashes soon. Watch this space.