clock broaches
T-S 01A and T-S 01b
This should start you off. Always go for the square ended type. The smaller ones will fit into a clock pin vice. The bigger ones you will need wooden handles I suggest long handles as they are easy to hold.
http://www.rnhorological.co.uk/broaches.htm
More clock bushes. These are also very good. They have small oil sink holes , easy to adapt to the clock plate.
https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/english-clock-bushes
If you come across this get them they are wonderful for making the oil sinks and good for cutting the bur after broaching.
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-clock-watchmakers-oil-sink-477906637
You will need a small bench hammer. If you have a staking tool the flat end punches are good for tapping the bush in without touching the plate. A bench file as you do not have a lathe you might need to file the bush to the correct thickness of the clock plate so assorted emery sticks are needed.
A clock steel block to rest the plate on while tapping the bush in.
It is up to you regarding smoothing broaches. I don’t think they are needed I never used them. I know of a clock maker who is high up in restoring museum pieces and he uses fine steel wool in the holes when finished broaching which I think is stupid.
If you have a clock that has lantern pinions they take more wear then the fixed type the American clocks have them. Just google lantern pinions so you will see what they are and some have what are called barrel pivots so be careful with the pivots. If a pinion has wear you can replace it with a new piece, so blue steel rod will do the trick.
Any more help just ask. I think I have covered it all. If you get stuck I’m here for you.