Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I found a 1-man watch repair shop near me.  Guy runs it out of his house.  I'm trying to work up the nerve to go to his house and ask for an apprenticeship, even if it's just one day a week.

 

A couple of questions for the forum:

1) What should I have down cold before I show up and ask for an apprenticeship?  When I go in will he be expecting me to know nothing, or will he be expecting me to pass a bench test?

2) What are the odds he already HAS an apprentice?

 

I'm thinking that, if I can get my foot in the door and depending on the state/volume of the business, I might try to buy it off the guy a couple years down the road.

Posted

Hi Phydaux,

A lot of it depends on your mechanical aptitude. If you have taken apart your car/bike/truck carburetor and gotten it back running again without much assistance then you are probably ok. If assembling an IKEA chair takes a full day for you then maybe not. If I was to judge an apprentice I would probably hand him a clock and tell him to take it apart. Then sit back and see how he lays out his workspace, handles his tools and his general approach. Does he think about the job or does he willy nilly unscrew everything in sight. Does he place the tools in an orderly manner and replace them in the same plce? There is usually a left-handed thread on one of the winders on the clock and if he catches this fast then its a good sign.

Age is also a factor, eyesight mostly but steadiness of the hand degrades with age. I am pushing 50 and sometimes it gets too tiresome to work at high magnification.

question one - I would really recommend you take the watch course offered in this website as the first step.. maybe approach him when you're a bit more comfortable with handling the tools. The last thing the watch-repair person wants is a newbie putting a screwdriver thru a customers hairspring. So having some basic skills will give him some confidence in you.

question two - A lot depends on the size of the business, if he does not have many customers then he may not be able to afford an apprentice (or another one). One trend nowadays is that watch repair guys don't deal directly with the customer, they work with watch shops who deal with the customer. They just make weekly rounds to hand over the previous weeks batch and collect the next weeks work. If this is the case then the workload should be enough.

Good luck.

 

Anilv

 

Posted

You want to find out if he is qualified; I do not know the qualifications you need in the USA. If he is self-taught you do not want to learn bad habits. Just be honest and tell him what you can or cannot do, how you got interested in horology, tell him about this forum if you like. I have never heard of a bench test, so forget that. You should tell him the tools you have and knowledge of using them, any books you have.   

Certainly do not tell him.

 I'm thinking that, if I can get my foot in the door and depending on the state/volume of the business, I might try to buy it off the guy a couple years down the road.

 

Taking on an apprentice over here in the UK you have to go down official channels, in my time I had to be registered with the B H I. A bit of paper work involved.  

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
    • You will still be looking for a balance complete I’m afraid, this is the balance staff, balance wheel and hairspring in one package. Hairspring and the balance wheel are matched in the factory. Whilst we can change a balance staff the hairspring and balance wheel stay together.   Tom
    • The hairspring end has come adrift from the small terminal barrel.  I have tried to remove the taper pin to relocate it, but the task is beyond my skill set, eyes, hands and being in my 70s, probably beyond my life expectancy.  It is not too badly mangled on the end.  On the ebay offer, that really is a bit on the rich side.  I'll keep looking, maybe a good hairspring will turn up with a shot balance staff. As for time spent on knees.  I made up one of these from 3M magnetic tape and a piece of wood.  It works well for magnetic parts. Other things I have suffered with.  I found lubricants so very expensive that I bought some very small syringes and tiny needles.  I just decant a drop into my oiling pots when I start a movement and the remainder keeps really well in the syringes. Finally identifying the correct screw for the part led me to make up the board in the final pic.   Thanks for the info. Kind regards   Chris  
    • Yes that's the type @watchweasol is referring too but I don't like them as you don't get any feel to what's happening.
    • Hi there Stoller,   Caliber is generally stamped under the balance or thereabouts.  Caliber can't neccessarily be identified by bridge layout. Regs
×
×
  • Create New...