Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all it's been a while since I was in this forum and repairing watches due to hectic schedule like exam. Glad to return back :) I was thinking is an air purifier a must for us who repair watches? Was thinking of buying one with a HEPA filter because as you know dust is all around us. I been trying to eliminate dust around my workbench like trying to clear some unnecessary stuff and wiping the area with a microfiber cloth but there's still dust I mean those kind of white textile fibre. Thanks. Would like to hear you guys opinion about this :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I personally wouldn't bother getting an air purifier, I just give my bench a dust with a microfibre cloth, and a good clean with a vacuum cleaner now and again. What I would recommend you get are a few cloches or jars to cover movement when you are not working on them.

Edited by Geo
  • Like 1
Posted

I personally wouldn't bother getting an air purifier, I just give my bench a dust with a microfibre cloth, and a good clean with a vacuum cleaner now and again. What I would recommend you get are a few cloches or jars to cover movement when you are not working on them.

Oh I see. Certainly I will be getting a dust cover with tray (the one which looks like a cheese tray). I shall follow what you have said. Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

A lot of the dust is self-generated.. ie skin particles, pets also create a lot of dust. Most of us have spent a lot of time examining the contents of our dust-pans and can attest to this!

 

Its best not to have fabric surfaces around.. eg drapes/curtains, seat materials, carpets. When you sit at your workbench make sure your clothes are not the type with co**BLEEP** weave which trap a lot of dirt.

 

Ever wonder why those proffessional watchmen wear those white coats? Its to prevent the dust/fibres from their normal clothes coming off onto the bench.

 

The worst pants to wear at the desk are those cargo pants with baggy pockets... whenever a part drops off the desk you have to move slowly and check if the parts has fallen into the folds of the pockets..! arrggh.

 

Anil

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
    • This video explains how to set up and adjust the etachron regulator :   I hope that helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...