Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

When fitting new stems to watches I use these tools :-

1-1.jpg

Digital calipers,

Fine grade diamond lap

Wire cutter

Pin vice

Now for fitting.

(1) Hold the stem in the pin vice and screw on the crown tightly by hand.

(2) With the movement fitted correctly in the case, insert the stem until it locks in place. Now measure the gap between the case and the underside of the stem. In this case it is 2.16mm.

2-1.jpg

(3) Subtract 0.2mm from this size and this will give the amount to remove from the stem. In this case it will be 1.96mm which will give 0.2mm clearance below the crown when fitted to the watch.

(4) Now remove the crown from the stem and hold the stem very tightly in the pin vice, then place the pin vice and stem between the jaws of the digital calipers then zero the calipers.

(5) Remove the calipers and without touching the zero button set them to minus 1.96mm. THEN RE-ZERO THE CALIPERS AT THIS LENGTH The wire cutters are now used cut off the excess thread leaving a small amount to be filed to the exact length.

(6) All that is required now is to dress the stem with the diamond lap a little at a time until the calipers read zero.

3-1.jpg

(7) Finally screw the crown on tightly and it should be ready to fit to the watch without further adjustment.

5-1.jpg

I find that this method cuts down on trial and error.

FOR SCREW DOWN CROWNS.

A) Screw down the crown tightly onto the case without the stem and measure the distance nbetween the bottom of the crown and the case.

B ) Screw the new stem tightly into the crown, then insert into the watch until it engages and locks into the movement.

C) Press the crown down firmly as far as it will go and hold it there.

D) Using the vernier callipers, measure the distance between the bottom of the crown and the case.

E) Subtract the size determined in (D) from the size measured in (A) then subtract a further 0.15mm from this size. This is the amount to shorten the stem by. This should allow the crown to screw full home without compressing the stem too tightly between the movement and the inside of the crown.

F) Cut the stem leaving it slightly longer than the size determined in (E), and dress down to size using the diamond lap and vernier callipers as described in the original post.

G) Screw the crown onto the shortened stem and check fit and function, before using a tiny spot of Loctite 221 to secure.

Click here to view the article

  • Like 17
Posted

OOPS, I forgot to say the calipers had to be re-zeroed again!

(5) Remove the calipers and without touching the zero button set them to minus 1.96mm. THEN RE-ZERO THE CALIPERS AT THIS LENGTH The wire cutters are now used cut off the excess thread leaving a small amount to be filed to the exact length.

Please edit this into the original post if possible Mark.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you Geo..For my part I purchased the same type of stem and I measure the same length and I cut and I file the end of the threads of the stem. for me, this solve the problem..I'm lucky because it has never happened to have a watch with a piece of the stem. It is also rare that I buy a watch with a broken stem..Sorry for my bad english ;) your explanations are the best..

Posted

OOPS, I forgot to say the calipers had to be re-zeroed again!

(5) Remove the calipers and without touching the zero button set them to minus 1.96mm. THEN RE-ZERO THE CALIPERS AT THIS LENGTH The wire cutters are now used cut off the excess thread leaving a small amount to be filed to the exact length.

Please edit this into the original post if possible Mark.

 

Your wish is my command :)

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Brilliant , looking forward to trying this , I have previously used a marker pen and trial and error , with the emphasis on error , which goes to pure guesswork for waterproof crowns !!

Thanks very much for sharing

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

FOR SCREW DOWN CROWNS.

(A) Screw down the crown tightly onto the case without the stem and measure the distance between the bottom of the crown and the case.

(B ) Screw the new stem tightly into the crown, then insert into the watch until it engages and locks into the movement.

(C ) Press the crown down firmly as far as it will go and hold it there.

(D) Using the vernier callipers, measure the distance between the bottom of the crown and the case.

(E) Subtract the size determined in (D) from the size measured in (A) then subtract a further 0.15mm from this size. This is the amount to shorten the stem by. This should allow the crown to screw full home without compressing the stem too tightly between the movement and the inside of the crown.

(F) Cut the stem leaving it slightly longer than the size determined in (E), and dress down to size using the diamond lap and vernier callipers as described in the original post.

(G) Screw the crown onto the shortened stem and check fit and function, before using a tiny spot of Loctite to secure.

This is now added to original post by Geo.

Edited by Geo
  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
  • 10 months later...
Posted

Hi Sendikumar,

 

The screw down crown has a spring between the stem and the crown (it is part of the crown ensemble) that creates a certain tension when properly screwed into the case tube. The spring tension translates into a shorter stem -- since the spring supplies the rest of the length -- and in the end it "takes back" that length to seal the watch...this is normally used in diving watches. Did I confuse you more? I'm not very good at explaining!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
    • This video explains how to set up and adjust the etachron regulator :   I hope that helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...