Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I bought the lathe a while ago, I've been tinkering but never seemed to get anywhere, after reading up more and more I decided to set a goal of learning how to use the lathe and getting as close to possible to cutting a balance staff. I've got a HUGE way to go but I am appreciating that its all about the gravers and how sharp they must be.

Few pics, this is as close as I got today, maybe tomorrow I'll have a other go. I'm guessing at some point I will need a jacot tool as I don't have the facility to get the pivots small enough without snapping the staff..

07f40a7d729736de292edfc3ca2d6262.jpg

1ee8840d9d3a4446c936cadee655c954.jpg

8f9b9150abf454ff0e8d380892232062.jpg

8e8ce724f9c04997ecb5d4530f65581a.jpg

53ff52da025b2b8a54d2d0afe07e24e2.jpg

Posted

I have re-pivoted a balance staff, but as yet I'venot tried making one from scratch.  Like you, it is something I should spend time learning to do properly. 

 

Well done with what you have achieved so far Jonathan, keep us posted with your progress.

Posted

Looking at what you have done so far I don't think it will be too long before you make a complete watch balance staff, well done.

Thanks guys, this wasn't measured it is purely to get used to a graver.I need a jacot tool I think for when I get close.

Geo: Pivoting a tiny balance wheel, I would love to do that, gonna have to try at somepoint.

Posted

Well done excellent efforts. This is a really difficult task and I have spent many an hour/day on my lathe trying to produce a balance staff.

I am now convinced that a jacot tool is the key + extremely sharp gravers. 

Posted

Well done excellent efforts. This is a really difficult task and I have spent many an hour/day on my lathe trying to produce a balance staff.

I am now convinced that a jacot tool is the key + extremely sharp gravers.

Yep, now I have to get one, accessories for my lathe are ultra expensive
Posted

thank you for posting this thread, jnash, I've been looking into buying a lathe but haven't jumped into it yet. Your experiences/insights on the matter are very valuable for me since it will help me decide ultimately what to get! 

Posted

In my humble opinion if funds allow I advise buying an Amercian style lathe that has a wide bed, such as  Boloey or IME. I did not and bought a Star lathe which is OK for general work. But when cutting thickish stock I think the bed flexes a fraction. The centre to centre (Tailstock too collet) is fractionally out on my lathe and this causes issues when using the tailstock for centre drilling or attacahing a jacot tool. Hind sight is a wonderful thing !!!!

Posted

I meant to add that the Clock & watch fairs are a good source for these and many other goodies.

The next one in the UK is at:

 

BRUNEL Clock and Watch Fair 

Sports Hall, Brunel University, Kingston Lane, Uxbridge, Middlesex, UB8 3PN. (Off A4020, M40 Exit 1, M25 Exit 16 East; 7 miles north of Heathrow)

December 14, 2014.

Posted

Good advise clockboy, thank you! I'll be checking for the brands suggested. Also I was told to get it with a complete complement of chucks(?). A substantial investment I'd say. As for the fair, I wish I could attend, but it is a bit out of my way... about 4,455 miles. :)

Posted

I meant to add that the Clock & watch fairs are a good source for these and many other goodies.

The next one in the UK is at:

BRUNEL Clock and Watch Fair

Sports Hall, Brunel University, Kingston Lane, Uxbridge, Middlesex, UB8 3PN. (Off A4020, M40 Exit 1, M25 Exit 16 East; 7 miles north of Heathrow)

December 14, 2014.

Not so good anymore , I hear the Birmingham one is much better
Posted

The collets (sometimes called split chucks) are available normally to be found on ebay or at watch & clock fairs.However be warned they are not the same threads. The collets come in either 8mm or 6mm. When I visit a fair I take my draw bar to test the threads of any collets i might purchase.

Posted

The collets (sometimes called split chucks) are available normally to be found on ebay or at watch & clock fairs.However be warned they are not the same threads. The collets come in either 8mm or 6mm. When I visit a fair I take my draw bar to test the threads of any collets i might purchase.

 

great advice, i actually bought the whole headstock once to make sure, there are some good deals on ebay at the moment. however don't go mad when buying stuff.

 

you need to also make sure that the headstock is spinning freely.

 

My advice would be a 8mm as accessories are readily available. the 6mm arent so easy to find.

Posted (edited)

Found this really useful when purchasing collets online: Scanned this chart from my "The Watchmakers and Model engineers Lathe" book by Donald de Carle

 

 

 

Scan.pdf

Edited by clockboy
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I have that book Clockboy, and highly recommend it to anyone who has a lathe or is thinking of buying one.

Edited by Geo

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently!
    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
×
×
  • Create New...