Jump to content

Swiss Emperor Watch - Any Good?

ro63rto
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ro63rto
ro63rto

I went for a joblot of 9 watches yesterday mainly for one particular Breil watch but this Swiss Emperor looks quite interesting. Is it worth searching for a new crystal?

Blacklab
Blacklab

Just what I was thinking Geo. Definitely stick a new crystal in it Rob, by the way what's the movement?

WillFly
WillFly

The Swiss Emperor chronos used Landeron 248 movements like mine (fettled by Mark):  

Posted Images

ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just what I was thinking Geo. Definitely stick a new crystal in it Rob, by the way what's the movement?

Not here yet. Should be tomorrow or Thursday. I'll open it up for pics as soon as I get it.

Its also the only one of the nine he says works but the others are quartz so prob just batteries need changing.

Marc Distinguished Member

Marc

Posted
Posted

As far as I remember all of the Swiss Emperor's (and Empress's) that I've worked on have had A. Schild  movements inside, including the alarm models.

anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

17jewels.. incabloc... sounds good. Dial looks excellent so a new crystal should work wonders.

 

If the crystal has no cracks, I would try to polish the crystal first..

 

Get fine sandpaper.. polish until you have an even haze.. then use autosol to bring it back to life. When using autosol.. use a new part of the polishing rag with fresh autosol constantly.

 

Since this is a gold-plated case be careful not to sand metal part when you sand near the edges of the crystal.

 

Anil

ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anil, is the crystal acrylic then?

If so I have Polywatch. Will that work as my tube of Autosol is so old its probably dried up.

Looking forward to getting this joblot now. Sounds like an even better bargain than I first thought.

anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

Most of the older watches have acrylic crystals.

 

Polywatch is ok for the final polish but you need to get rid of all the nicks and gouges first.. other wise you will end up will nicely polished nicks and gouges.

 

Dried Autosol can be used if mixed with a little light oil. Water will work but I find light oil is better.

 

No harm in trying, if you screw it up then you'll end up where you started.

 

Anil

  • Like 1
ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Great Link Anil, Thanks I'm also into this task at the moment!

I've read somewhere that for uv damaged acrylic crystals you can use DEET to "melt" the oxidised layer and thereby reveal fresh acrylic.

I would only try this on a scrap one first though before attacking a nice watch :lol:

ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi ro63rto,

Is DEET the insect repellent? Thanks for the tip. Very helpful.

Bob

One and the same.

I'm dying to try this on something to see if it works [emoji1]

Maybe an old car headlight? Hmm.

ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Package got here.

The Breil I wanted is mint but bracelet needs two extra links.

The Swiss Emperor is a lot smaller than I expected and will defo need a new strap as its original is crispy.

On a worse note the crystal actually looks cracked. The listing did say needed a new one but I thought it would only be extreme scuffs.

The Roamer is a non worker as there is no crown possibly no stem. Will open later.

The other 6 watches range from modern ish Quartz Sekondas to a Ben Sherman from which I will take the unusual strap.

ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Quick pic.

Swiss Emperor (Works. No quickdate set though)

20141114_180735.jpg

Roamer (no crown. Can't figure out how to open. Case pops out from stretch bracelet.)

20141114_180751.jpg

Breil Ducati Corse same as one I already own (bought mine in 2004 for €350)

20141114_180807.jpg

Those and 6 other wortless quartz all for the princely sum of £31 delivered. [emoji1]

Edited by ro63rto
anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

Roamer...

 

They had some unusual cases. One where you have to press on the crystal and the 'module' pops out the back.

 

The 'module' consists of the crystal which is fitted onto the caseback and comes off as one unit. Look at the crown tube..does it look like it can move downwards?

 

To complicate things further .. some have 2 piece stems.

 

Anil

  • Like 1
ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Roamer...

They had some unusual cases. One where you have to press on the crystal and the 'module' pops out the back.

The 'module' consists of the crystal which is fitted onto the caseback and comes off as one unit. Look at the crown tube..does it look like it can move downwards?

To complicate things further .. some have 2 piece stems.

Anil

Hi Anil.

Yes I got that far but can't work out how to reveal the movement.

Don't want to force anything.

Even with a loupe I can't see a tab from where to pry off the caseback.

Gonna have to do a bit more research on this.

ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I've also noticed that the bezel is rotated 180° as you can see in the pic tge "pm" marker is at the 11 position instead of down to the right of the 6 position.

Edited by ro63rto
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Gonna have to do a bit more research on this.

I think it might just be a standard front loader. See if there is a break line between th bezel and the case. If there is you will probably have to remove the bezel complete with crystal, to allow the movement to come out the front.

ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think it might just be a standard front loader. See if there is a break line between th bezel and the case. If there is you will probably have to remove the bezel complete with crystal, to allow the movement to come out the front.

Found something that says to flick off the crystal with your fingernail. I'll test that theory later after my morning espresso to calm the nerves.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Mercurial
      Etachron regulation system

      By Mercurial · Posted

      Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Klassiker
      Etachron regulation system

      By Klassiker · Posted

      Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • VWatchie
      Rolex cal. 3135 issues

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
    • Kalanag
      Tissot case back removal

      By Kalanag · Posted

      Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently!
    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
×
×
  • Create New...