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Posted

I just spent the weekend learning 3D modelling. My motive is to further enhance and illustrate watch repair techniques using 3d animations and after a weekend of learning (thanks to Lynda.Com) I have made my first wheel.

 

I think it looks quite good so far :)

 

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Posted

Excellent Mark, would this will be the "mystery" you alluded to a couple of post back? What program are you using?

 

No Geo :) lol

 

I'm using Cinema 4d.

 

Just appended a different aspect.

Posted

See a 3d printer in action at BAE systems a few years ago. They made a complicated gear out of some sort of plastic compound just from a drawing. Was told they are now working on compounds that will be harder than most metals. The future is nigh.

Posted

Ooooo, I hope you're going to round off these pivots. ;-)

 

Don't know how to do that yet :) next weekend I will continue my education.

Posted

Will, you are an absolute star mate!

 

I did not know about this site at all - 3D and CAD are so new to me, but I am getting the bug.

 

And it's also interesting to me because the big project I am working on, will partly be based around the 6497.

 

Brilliant stuff :)

Posted

Will, that is an incredible web site.

It it won,t happen in my life time but ordering bits will be a matter of paying for the download & printing the part

yourself.

Posted

On a Mac go to preferences, tick the "Show Develop in menu bar" then Enable WebGL. .

This allows users to see the 3d files in all the different views, I could play with this for hours!!!

Posted

On a Mac go to preferences, tick the "Show Develop in menu bar" then Enable WebGL. .

This allows users to see the 3d files in all the different views, I could play with this for hours!!!

 

Sounds cool. Maybe i'm going crazy - but I can't see that option?

 

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Posted

Sorry Mark,

Missed the important bit you have to have Safari open. Then pref etc the Delope bit then shows in your toolbar & the Enable WebGL in this drop down menu of Delope 

Sorry once again 

Posted

Got it. Never used that feature before.

 

Plus it has re-invented the anatomy of the movement which is cool, check it out:

 

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Posted (edited)

This will revolutionise engineers maintenance/repair drawings. I noticed using this tech ( I think it was a quartz movement) you can show how its assembled .

Edited by clockboy
Posted

The only 3D program I have used was an early version of Autodesk Inventor. It's great when you can produce something that anyone can recognise before you make it. Not everyone can get their heads around 2D drawings. I'm following this thread with great interest!

  • Like 1
Posted

I am sure the ETA web site uses this tech.

Log on to ETA web site/training centre/Eta Swiss@B/ETA/Swiss @B

then you can assemble and de-assemble common Eta movements

Posted

This is actually quite addictive. Was going to leave it until next weekend, but decided to make a setting lever spring after supper this evening. It's coming together quite well.

Should have my own 6497 built within a few years at this rate :D

 

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Posted

I used AutoCAD 12 back them and was actually "programming" it or rather customizing it for the users. It's been a while! I have not been following this technology since then! Very interesting thread.

Posted

This is truly getting quite addictive. I could not wait to get on my computer this evening :D

 

Thought I would tackle the pallet fork and escape wheel.

 

Think I might do the balance next.

 

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    • Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently!
    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
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