Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

After assembly of a ETA 2671 the watch works really great showing good on the timegrapher so no problems with the movement. However the auto wind is not 100%. The weight was not turning as free as I would like and after after 24hrs or so the watch stopped. I therefore changed the oscillating weight bearing but there is still no real improvement. Wondering if there is a specific position when assembling the Oscillating weight like is required with some Seiko,s. The other thought is perhaps there is a fault with the "automatic device framework" but when assembled all seems OK and runs free.

Anyones thoughts much appreciated

Posted

Might there be a horizontal alignment problem - something not quite true in the rotor assembly which is causing it to bind slightly or not to swing in certain positions?

Posted (edited)

Thanks Will, I don,t think it is that, but will look again the other thing I am wondering if the bearing purchased is not 100%.

Just found this vid and will do the test. The other problem is it is the Sister in laws and getting her to give it it back is an issue as she says she will just wind it every day. Winding me up thats for sure.

P.S The watch has has been through the wars as I had to replace the balance staff

 

 

 

Edited by clockboy
  • Like 1
Posted

Have you checked all the bearings in the auto wind train and has the mainspring been recently lubricated?

Posted (edited)

Geo, New mainspring and lubed,the auto wind train looks good. I think it is the bearing on the oscillating weight. But until I get the watch back I can not check. This watch as I said has really been abused, replaced crystal (cracked) new balance staff (broken) and new spring (just seemed set).

Just annoying done all the testicle stuff and really pleased with the result then the auto has an issue. It stops after 24hrs but not giving it back so I can have look is a winding me up big time. 

 

Playing with my lathe today and found out some interesting stuff making a cutting tool I will do a separate post.

Edited by clockboy
Posted

Just annoying done all the testicle stuff

Ah that's the problem, you've ballsed it up!

I look forward to hearing how you get on its the lathe.

Posted

It may be best just to replace the reversing wheels as they are reasonably cheap. 10/10 reversing wheels and ball race replacement on these movements will usually solve all the auto winding problems.

 

Also - check for any missing teeth on the winding wheels (within the auto works and under the barrel bridge) and replace as needed.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Mark,

Will do. There was no teeth missing & if the oscillating weight passes the test shown in the vid I expect you have cracked it again.

Thanks a million

Posted

By the way - how did you fit the bearing? 

 

I usually use a staking tool with the widest possible flat headed punch and a brass stake. This is because I managed to damage a bearing before with the metal punches. Just a heads up because they are very easy to squash!

Posted (edited)

Yes & thanks Mark I followed your Vid when fitting the bearing using a brass stake & staking tool.

I suspect you have cracked it though because even after fitting the bearing I was still not happy so the reversing wheels I will change. Ordered a few hours ago for Cousins & as a precaution ordered another bearing (fingers crossed)

Edited by clockboy
Posted

if the rotor tries to spin when you try to wind it manually then the reversors are shot.

 

Did you check the pivots for the reduction wheel and driving wheel (autowind)? If jewelled they can chip.

 

Anil

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok chaps still got issue with the Oscillating bearing on this ETA 2671 I have attached a vid hopefully it is  OK as I used my iPhone to create. I have also attached a pic which shows a slight difference between the old & new bearing. The new one is on the left which has a ridge & the old has not.

Unless the vid I see on youtube is incorrect there is not enough oscillation. When I fitted the new bearing absolute caution was taken using a brass  stump & I even pushed it on with a piece of felt between the punch & the bearing to absolutely make sure I did not damage the new bearing.

 

post-234-0-86248400-1416573885_thumb.jpg

 

 

New Bearing.MOV

Posted

I wouldn't have thought having felt against the bearing would have been a good idea because tiny parts of felt may enter the bearing. I would have gone for the clean hard stump on the bottom and clean hard punch on the top.

Posted

Point taken but am sure the bearing us clean and free. Also the felt had paper attached as well and the paper was bearing side. It was a modified felt dot that I attach to the underside of cloaks  

Posted

After watching the clip it is clear, either the bearing was faulty or it has been damaged whilst fitting..

 

Please do not read too much into that other video. It's a good indication but not all bearings perform the same as others so to put it down to a time could drive you crazy. But your one is performing like it is under load and that is clearly not right.

 

I did a test yesterday following the video you posted. It was on a brand new bearing for a 2824, tested both with lubrication and without. Straight from the sealed packet and after soaking in lighter fluid and lubricating with pallet oil and I got the same result each time. It came to rest at around 12 seconds. Far short of 70 seconds.

 

The watch is now on my wind up machine and I will guarantee that it will run for more than 35 hours after a few hours on the machine. 

 

Getting back to your bearing:

 

If you have not already done so then ultrasonic it and then lubricate the balls with pallet oil (not 9010 and definitely not D5). See how it performs.

 

If it is still the same then dump it and put another one on.

 

Tip: these bearings are relatively cheap and are used quite often. Therefore it is a good idea to order them in two's or three's. Then you have a spare for moments like this :)

 

Hope this helps.

Posted

Not sure if you have an ultrasonic, so if you don't then another way is to soak it in lighter fluid and agitate the fluid with your blower. This can be quite effective.

Posted (edited)

Mark,

I have a L&R and ultrasonic cleaner and will give it a clean. But this the second new bearing fitted and I could not have fitted it more gently.

I fitted with the touch of a fairy.

 

However I have not lubed it but did lube the old one with 9010 not pallet oil but there was some improvement.

The new bearing is not the same as was supplied last time from cousins and to be honest I think it is a loose fit as I just had to push it in no other force was needed. If the clean & lube improves the performance I will put a smudge of lock tight around it just in case.

 

If no improvement I will order yet another bearing from Cousins

Edited by clockboy
Posted

That is very strange!

But the clip you posted clearly shows a blockage of some kind. It really looks tight. I think they sent you a duffer - it's not unheard of.

Posted

Mark, cleaned & lubed as suggested and there is without doubt an improvement. When fitted to the watch it now freely moves around when putting the watch in different positions. My concern now is it is such a loose fit it falls of the bearing when turning the watch upside down. I think I should order another couple. Also noticed that the bearing supplied is not the same style as the ETA drawing,I don,t know if this is the issue.

Posted (edited)

ITS FIXED.  Mark for a knighthood at least.

Fitted yet another bearing (3rd one) this morning and it functions completely different to other two I fitted. I used the same method fitting so it must have been some duff bearings. Noticed yesterday when I ultrasonic cleaned the second bearing that there was a tiny deposit of white stuff in the bottom of the machine wondering if they had been loaded with a grease of some sort.

I have also fitted two new reversing wheels as a precaution but I am sure it is fixed. 

P.S. I ordered the bearings yesterday afternoon and they arrived this morning hats off to Cousins

Edited by clockboy
  • Like 1
Posted

Excellent work clockboy! It was a food learning experience for me, both on the watch side and the parts quality side, i.e. never trust a new part completely!

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently!
    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
×
×
  • Create New...