Tissot 2481 servicing information

[Paumanok]

Hi all,

Its been a month or so since I posted. I've been tuning my skills on nicer and nicer russian movements. After servicing a tiny womens swiss movement, I think I'm ready to approach something a little nicer.

I've had a 70's Tissot seamaster lying around for a while, the minute hand would often stop advancing until manual intervention. I brought it to a watchmaker for an estimate and he said the cannon pinion was bad but the cost of service was a student loan payment so I took it home to think about it.

When he reassembled it, he got the keyless works wrong, so I pulled it apart to sort out and they're very tricky but I don't think anything is broken.

First actual question: When I had the dial off playing with the keyless works, the cannon pinion looked fine, no missing leaves. Could something less visually obvious be wrong with it that would still require replacement?

Second, since this is a nice movement and not a Russian workhorse, I don't want to use a single general purpose oil on the whole thing, but I cant seem to find information on what weights for what parts I should use. This caliber seems to be shortly lived and somewhat obscure.

[rogart63]

Think he ment that the cannon pinion is loose on the center wheel. It should be a little tight fit . It could be crimped . But that is something you should have experience in doing as it can get to much . Have a look into cannon pinion tightening on google. 

[Paumanok]

Think he ment that the cannon pinion is loose on the center wheel. It should be a little tight fit . It could be crimped . But that is something you should have experience in doing as it can get to much . Have a look into cannon pinion tightening on google. 

That could be it. There's someone parting out one of these movements on eBay, it may be worth the 40 dollars to buy a good one.

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[HSL]

It's a quite nice movement to work with and if you decide to service it I have the most of the parts to it except to the autowinding mechanism.
The diagnose on the intermittent function on the minute hand seems to be correct.

[yankeedog]

If you like the watch it would be $40 well spent.

[Paumanok]

9 minutes ago, HSL said:

It's a quite nice movement to work with and if you decide to service it I have the most of the parts to it except to the autowinding mechanism.
The diagnose on the intermittent function on the minute hand seems to be correct.

On initial inspection, its far nicer than other movements I've worked on. I may ask your advice on getting the keyless works to place nice, as it seems to slip out of position once I remove the stem to place back into the case. I'm removing the stem in the setting position but I seem to either shift the castle out of the position yoke, or the quickset adjuster just doesn't reach far enough.

Also, what is your oiling recommendations? Could I get away with 8000 across the board after a clean if I plan on returning to the watch in a year or so. Probably once I've invested in nicer synthetic oils.

 

 

[Paumanok]

4 minutes ago, yankeedog said:

If you like the watch it would be $40 well spent.

It was free from a family friend, and it never quite worked right but even being broken its still the nicest watch in my collection.

Its exciting that I'm not afraid of messing it up, and that I can make it a part of the rotation.

[yankeedog]

GOOD ! I am glad to hear it.I was just looking the movement up. You are right it was made  for a pretty short time and has an omega equivalent. I really don't know anything about it, but wonder if it was an in house movement or something like an ETA in drag.

[yankeedog]

I find that removing a stem in the winding position works better.It allows less wiggle room and things tend to stay in place .

[HSL]

1 hour ago, Paumanok said:

On initial inspection, its far nicer than other movements I've worked on. I may ask your advice on getting the keyless works to place nice, as it seems to slip out of position once I remove the stem to place back into the case. I'm removing the stem in the setting position but I seem to either shift the castle out of the position yoke, or the quickset adjuster just doesn't reach far enough.

Also, what is your oiling recommendations? Could I get away with 8000 across the board after a clean if I plan on returning to the watch in a year or so. Probably once I've invested in nicer synthetic oils.

If you are in no hurry I could stripp one keyless down and make a small tutorial of it. 
I seldom use the Moebius 8000 anymore but put it on at request  
If one would buy some luricants and don't bother  about the mainspring it would be a setup like this..

Fine oil Moebius 9010 - On the escapement parts (It's here you can use Moebius 8000)
Thick oil Moebius HP-1300 On the most other parts which needs to be lubricated 
Grease Moebius 9504 Like on the winding pinion and so on..
Special for pallet stones Moebius 9415.
 

[Paumanok]

If you are in no hurry I could stripp one keyless down and make a small tutorial of it. 
I seldom use the Moebius 8000 anymore but put it on at request [emoji6] 
If one would buy some luricants and don't bother  about the mainspring it would be a setup like this..
Fine oil Moebius 9010 - On the escapement parts (It's here you can use Moebius 8000)
Thick oil Moebius HP-1300 On the most other parts which needs to be lubricated 
Grease Moebius 9504 Like on the winding pinion and so on..
Special for pallet stones Moebius 9415.
 

I wouldn't mind a tutorial, and judging by what's out there it would be helpful to the community as a whole.

I have a decent idea at how keyless works go and I'm pretty sure I'm putting it together right but I wouldn't mind a second opinion. I'd also want to see spring position on the date ring keeper on the opposite side from the keyless. Just in case I'm not getting it right.

And thanks for the oil advice. It seems hard to find.

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[HSL]

So hey ho here we go!
This version of movement has a quick date set on which you push the crown to set the date otherwise its quite straight forward.
I start from a almost stripped subject. 

The first thing we do is to lubricate the sliding pinion with HP-1300, I aply two smal dots on each side of the gears and one small dot in the sliding pinipn grove.
The winding pinion gets two small dots of 9504 grease on the teeth and a small dot on the smooth side of the winding pinion.

[HSL]

I drop the sliding and winding pinion into place. I lubricate the stem with HP-1300 microscopic dots on the top the square sides where the sliding pinion sits and in the groove which keeps the stem in place.
I put a small amount in the whole where the stem release nob is going.

 

In goes the setting lever. Put a dot HP-1300 on top of the nobb on top of the lever.

In goes the lever spring. put a dot HP-1300 where the lever and spring meets.

 

[HSL]

Next comes the yoke and a drop of HP-1300 lands ontop of that too.

The yokespring is sometimes tricky but use a peg wood to hold it into place. A drop of HP-1300 goes between the spring and yoke.

[HSL]

The setting lever jumper comes on and incase you forgot to put a dot on the setting lever you can put it in the grove. put a dot on the date quick set lever nob and grove.

And at last the quick set lever goes on and the keyless is finished!

[HSL]

Even if this shows the assebly of the keyless work i will warn about the springiest date spring, it is kept in place behind the bridge and will almost everytime you loosen it try to get airborn.

[Paumanok]

Super excellent mini write-up. I was having a lot of trouble getting the date-ring spriny pusher in place with the flat spring set all the way back into the bridge.

I'm definitely going the need to invest oils and a proper ultrasonic cleaner for this job.

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[HSL]

The trick there is to take the easy way out, one just put the bridge with the spring in it like in the picture, align the bridge and just tighten the screw loosely. Take an oiler and push the sping in behind of the date lever and tighten it up. That's it.

[Paumanok]

The trick there is to take the easy way out, one just put the bridge with the spring in it like in the picture, align the bridge and just tighten the screw loosely. Take an oiler and push the sping in behind of the date lever and tighten it up. That's it.

Sounds pretty close to what I was doing, except my smallest screw driver instead of oiler, as I don't want to bugger my only oiler.

Tricky none the less but very encouraging to hear I'm on the right path.

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[Beto]

Great tutorial! I'll be attempting this same job and will definitely refer to this.

[Stirky]

For anyone else looking at this trying to fit the date ring spring, I followed the instruction above and fitted the spring to the bridge, then loosely fitted the plate with the screw. Then I placed the tip of my tweezers between the main plate and the date jumper to ensure the date jumper was pushed as far toward the spring as possible, then with an oiler I pushed the spring until it went past the date jumper and engages with it (hidden under the bridge of course!). Took a while, but that methods seems the most likely to work.

Thanks to all above for their help and good luck!