Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Like most of us, I look for perfection and oiling cap jewels with a regular oiler take a lot of practice and patience. I found myself having to reclean and re-oil over and over before I could approve my work. So, I decided to invest in an automatic oiler for this purpose and although very expensive I think it was worth every penny, and I was so happy about it that I decided to make a video about it. Please bear with me though as this was my very first attempt at video editing.

 

  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1
Posted

The 1A is great, makes cap jewel oiling a breeze and those fiddly Seiko train jewels which you're guaranteed to fit first attempt when dry but push out of place so you have to clean and re oil several times when you try to oil before placing.

May I make a recommendation which comes from having much practise with spilling things over the years doing this and model kit making.

Keep a lump of blu tack handy and place a blob on the bottom of any bottle you're decanting liquid from, until the cap is back on firmly.

9010 is very expensive to accidentally swipe across your desk. :)

  • Like 4
Posted

Thanks I have often thought about the automatic oiler and it was good to see it demonstrated like that.

  • Like 1
Posted
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
6
On 6/5/2019 at 1:12 PM, m1ks said:

The 1A is great, makes cap jewel oiling a breeze and those fiddly Seiko train jewels which you're guaranteed to fit first attempt when dry but push out of place so you have to clean and re oil several times when you try to oil before placing.

May I make a recommendation which comes from having much practise with spilling things over the years doing this and model kit making.

Keep a lump of blu tack handy and place a blob on the bottom of any bottle you're decanting liquid from, until the cap is back on firmly.

9010 is very expensive to accidentally swipe across your desk. :)

Excellent advice, thank you! It's those little things that sometimes make all the difference!

Indeed, and I was actually feeling a bit worried while recording the video...:unsure:

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I do it the opposite way. It didn’t work for me pushing the button up first, I was getting oil around the chaton jewel rather than on the end stone. Strange, I can see it in the video it works for you to push the button up first, I must be doing something slightly differently.

I follow the instructions:
I insert the needle into the jewel hole (the needle will retract slightly when it touches the end stone)
Then I push the button up until it touches the eccentric screw, then I release the button to it’s resting position and finally take the oiler out.
This method worked perfectly every time. Although I only just got it so I will play around with it.

The instructions aren’t great. I keep the gasket on and push it up to hold the button up when not in use and the oiler is in its stand. I think that’s what they want me to do.

Posted
2 hours ago, PeterS said:

I do it the opposite way. It didn’t work for me pushing the button up first, I was getting oil around the chaton jewel rather than on the end stone. Strange, I can see it in the video it works for you to push the button up first, I must be doing something slightly differently.

I follow the instructions:
I insert the needle into the jewel hole (the needle will retract slightly when it touches the end stone)
Then I push the button up until it touches the eccentric screw, then I release the button to it’s resting position and finally take the oiler out.
This method worked perfectly every time. Although I only just got it so I will play around with it.

The instructions aren’t great. I keep the gasket on and push it up to hold the button up when not in use and the oiler is in its stand. I think that’s what they want me to do.

I would think it more likely to damage or break the needle doing it that way.

Posted

Interesting tip in the book called Maintaining & Repairing Mechanical Watches A Practical Guide by Mark W Wiles.

So it seems the method VWatchie uses is correct.

Page 148

IMGP0003.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I have the book still opened on that page on my desk! Yes I did read it and this method was the first method I tried but I couldn’t do it, the oil always ended up around the chaton jewel.
M. Wiles uses Bergeon 2718 and the new ones are 7718, I don’t know whether there are any differences except the stand.

This is from Bergeon:

 

20190728_154853 (Copy).jpg

Posted

I had another go and it works just fine.
Maybe I didn’t have the oiler straight and the needle was hitting the chaton or the chaton jewel.
Both methods work well. The pic with one hole in the rodico is push the button first, and the pic with two holes in the rodico is the needle in first method.

 

20190728_171228 (Copy).jpg

20190728_173112 (Copy).jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Nucejoe said:

@PeterS  isn,t that too much oil?   

Yes it is. It's in my spares, I was using it for testing the two methods, it's not going to be installed anywhere, otherwise I would have put around 30% there

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...